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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.net Title: Textiles and Clothing Author: Kate Heintz Watson Release Date: May 19, 2007 [EBook #21534] Language: English *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK TEXTILES AND CLOTHING *** Produced by Stan Goodman, Karen Dalrymple, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net Textiles and Clothing BY KATE HEINTZ WATSON GRADUATE ARMOUR INSTITUTE OF TECHNOLOGY FORMERLY INSTRUCTOR IN DOMESTIC ART LEWIS INSTITUTE LECTURER UNIVERSITY OF CHICAGO CHICAGO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS 1907 COPYRIGHT 1906, 1907, BY HOME ECONOMICS ASSOCIATION THE LIBRARY OF HOME ECONOMICS A COMPLETE HOME-STUDY COURSE ON THE NEW PROFESSION OF HOME-MAKING AND ART OF RIGHT LIVING; THE PRACTICAL APPLICATION OF THE MOST RECENT ADV ANCES IN THE ARTS AND SCIENCES TO HOME AND HEALTH PREPARED BY TEACHERS OF RECOGNIZED AUTHORITY FOR HOME-MAKERS, MOTHERS, TEACHERS, PHYSICIANS, NURSES, DIETITIANS, PROFESSIONAL HOUSE MANAGERS, AND ALL INTERESTED IN HOME, HEALTH, ECONOMY AND CHILDREN TWELVE VOLUMES NEARLY THREE THOUSAND PAGES, ONE THOUSAND ILLUSTRATIONS TESTED BY USE IN CORRESPONDENCE INSTRUCTION REVISED AND SUPPLEMENTED CHICAGO AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS 1907 C OPYRIGHT , 1907 BY H OME E CONOMICS A SSOCIATION Entered at Stationers' Hall, London All Rights Reserved. AUTHORS ISABEL BEVIER, Ph. M. Professor of Household Science, University of Illinois. Author U. S. Government Bulletins, "Development of The Home Economics Movement in America," etc. ALICE PELOUBET NORTON, M. A. Assistant Professor of Home Economics, School of Eduction, University of Chicago; Director of the Chautauqua School of Domestic Science. S. MARIA ELLIOTT Instructor in Home Economics, Simmons College; Formerly Instructor School of Housekeeping, Boston. ANNA BARROWS Director Chautauqua School of Cookery; Lecturer Teachers' College, Columbia University, and Simmons College; formerly Editor "American Kitchen Magazine;" Author "Home Science Cook Book." ALFRED CLEVELAND COTTON, A. M., M. D. Professor Diseases of Children, Rush Medical College, University of Chicago; Visiting Physician Presbyterian Hospital, Chicago; Author of "Diseases of Children." BERTHA M. TERRILL, A. B. Professor in Home Economics in Hartford School of Pedagogy; Author of U. S. Government Bulletins. KATE HEINTZ WATSON Formerly Instructor in Domestic Economy, Lewis Institute; Lecturer University of Chicago. MARION FOSTER WASHBURNE Editor "The Mothers' Magazine;" Lecturer Chicago Froebel Association; Author "Everyday Essays," "Family Secrets," etc. MARGARET E. DODD Graduate Massachusetts Institute of Technology; Teacher of Science, Woodard Institute. AMY ELIZABETH POPE With the Panama Canal Commission; Formerly Instructor in Practical and Theoretical Nursing, Training School for Nurses, Presbyterian Hospital, New York City. MAURICE LE BOSQUET, S. B. Director American School of Home Economics; Member American Public Health Association and American Chemical Society. CONTRIBUTORS AND EDITORS ELLEN H. RICHARDS Author "Cost of Food," "Cost of Living," "Cost of Shelter," "Food Materials and Their Adulteration," etc., etc.; Chairman Lake Placid Conference on Home Economics. MARY HINMAN ABEL Author of U. S. Government Bulletins, "Practical Sanitary and Economic Cooking," "Sale Food," etc. THOMAS D. WOOD, M. D. Professor of Physical Education, Columbia University. H. M. LUFKIN, M. D. Professor of Physical Diagnosis and Clinical Medicine, University of Minnesota. OTTO FOLIN, Ph. D. Special Investigator, McLean Hospital, Waverly, Mass. T. MITCHELL PRUDDEN, M. D., LL. D. Author "Dust and Its Dangers," "The Story of the Bacteria," "Drinking Water and Ice Supplies," etc. FRANK CHOUTEAU BROWN Architect, Boston, Mass.; Author of "The Five Orders of Architecture," "Letters and Lettering." MRS. MELVIL DEWEY Secretar Lake Placid Conference on Home Economics. HELEN LOUISE JOHNSON Professor of Home Economics, James Millikan University, Decatur. FRANK W. ALLIN, M. D. Instructor Rush Medical College, University of Chicago. MANAGING EDITOR MAURICE LE BOSQUET, S. B. Director American School of Home Economics. BOARD OF TRUSTEES OF THE AMERICAN SCHOOL OF HOME ECONOMICS MRS. ARTHUR COURTENAY NEVILLE President of the Board. MISS MARIA PARLOA Founder of the first Cooking School in Boston; Author of "Home Economics," "Young Housekeeper," U. S. Government Bulletins, etc. MRS. MARY HINMAN ABEL Co-worker in the "New England Kitchen," and the "Rumford Food Laboratory;" Author of U. S. Government Bulletins, "Practical Sanitary and Economic Cooking," etc. MISS ALICE RAVENHILL Special Commissioner sent by the British Government to report on the Schools of Home Economics in the United States; Fellow of the Royal Sanitary Institute, London. MRS. ELLEN M. HENROTIN Honorary President General Federation of Woman's Clubs. MRS. FREDERIC W. SCHOFF President National Congress of Mothers. MRS. LINDA HULL LARNED Past President National Household Economics Association; Author of "Hostess of To-day." MRS. WALTER McNAB MILLER Chairman of the Pure Food Committee of the General Federation of Woman's Clubs. MRS. J. A. KIMBERLY Vice President of National Household Economics Association. MRS. JOHN HOODLESS Government Superintendent of Domestic Science for the province of Ontario; Founder Ontario Normal School of Domestic Science, now the MacDonald Institute. DRESS MAKING IN MEXICO CONTENTS P RIMITIVE M ETHODS 3 W EA VING 14 F IBERS 29 C OTTON 29 W OOL 37 F LAX 43 S ILK 53 M ODERN M ETHODS 59 W EA VING 69 W EA VES 72 B LEACHING AND D YEING 78 P RINTING 81 F INISHING 83 C OTTON G OODS 85 L INENS 86 W OOLENS AND W ORSTEDS 88 S ILKS 90 N AMES OF F ABRICS 94 B IBLIOGRAPHY ON T EXTILES 103 H AND S EWING 107 O RNAMENTAL S TITCHES 114 H EMS 123 T UCKS AND S EAMS 128 P LACKETS 135 S EWING ON B ANDS 138 F ASTENINGS 141 P ATCHING 149 D ARNING 155 M ITERING E MBROIDERY , J OINING L ACE 158 M ACHINE S EWING 162 D RESSMAKING 167 P ATTERNS 171 M AKING S EVEN -G ORED S KIRT 172 M AKING S HIRT W AISTS 182 L INED W AIST 186 S LEEVES 194 C OLLARS 198 S EAMLESS Y OKES 200 P RESSING 201 C ONSTRUCTION AND O RNAMENT IN D RESS 203 O RNAMENT OF T EXTILES 212 C OLOR 214 C HILDREN ' S C LOTHES 216 C ARE OF C LOTHING 219 C LEANING 221 R EPAIRING 225 B IBLIOGRAPHY ON S EWING AND D RESSMAKING 229 R EFERENCES : H ISTORY OF C OSTUME ; O RNAMENT AND D ESIGN 234 P ROGRAM FOR S UPPLEMENTAL S TUDY 236 I NDEX 241 "THE THREAD OF LIFE" Spinning with the Distaff and Spindle. From a Painting. TEXTILES AND CLOTHING Origin of Textile Arts Spinning and weaving are among the earliest arts. In the twisting of fibers, hairs, grasses, and sinews by rolling them between the thumb and fingers, palms of the hands, or palms and naked thigh, we have the original of the spinning wheel and the steam-driven cotton spindle; in the roughest plaiting we have the first hint of the finest woven cloth. The need of securing things or otherwise strengthening them then led to binding, fastening, and sewing. The wattle-work hut with its roof of interlaced boughs, the skins sewn by fine needles with entrails or sinews, the matted twigs, grasses, and rushes are all the crude beginnings of an art which tells of the settled life of to-day. Primitive Methods Nothing is definitely known of the origin of these arts; all is conjecture. They doubtless had their beginning long before mention is made of them in history, but these crafts—spinning and weaving— modified and complicated by inventions and, in modern times transferred largely from man to machine, were distinctively woman's employment. The very primitive type of spinning, where no spindle was used, was to fasten the strands of goats' hair or wool to a stone which was twirled round until the yarn was sufficiently twisted when it was wound upon the stone and the process repeated over and over. ITALIAN WOMAN SPINNING FLAX Spindle and Distaff. From Hull House Museum. (In This Series of Pictures the Spinners and Weavers Are in Native Costume.) RUSSIAN SPINNING Flax Held on Frame, Leaving Both Hands Free to Manage the Thread and Spindle. From Hull House Museum. Spinning with the Spindle The next method of twisting yarn was with the spindle, a straight stick eight to twelve inches long on which the thread was wound after twisting. At first it had a cleft or split in the top in which the thread was fixed; later a hook of bone was added to the upper end. The spindle is yet used by the North American Indians, the Italians, and in the Orient. The bunch of wool or flax fibers is held in the left hand; with the right hand the fibers are drawn out several inches and the end fastened securely in the slit or hook on the top of the spindle. A whirling motion is given to the spindle on the thigh or any convenient part of the body; the spindle is then dropped, twisting the yarn, which is wound on the upper part of the spindle. Another bunch of fibers is drawn out, the spindle is given another twirl, the yarn is wound on the spindle, and so on. Spindle Whorl A spindle containing a quantity of yarn was found to rotate more easily, steadily and continue longer than an empty one, hence the next improvement was the addition of a whorl at the bottom of the spindle. These whorls are discs of wood, stone, clay, or metal which keep the spindle steady and promote its rotation. The process in effect is precisely the same as the spinning done by our grandmothers, only the spinning wheel did the twisting and reduced the time required for the operation. SPINNING WITH CRUDE WHEEL AND DISTAFF Distaff Thrust Into the Belt. "GOSSIP" IN THE OLDEN TIMES COLONIAL WOOL WHEEL The Large Wheel Revolved by Hand Thus Turning the Spindle and Twisting the Yarn, Which Is Then Wound on the Spindle; Intermittent in Action. COLONIAL FLAX WHEEL Worked by a Foot Treddle; Distaff on the Frame of the Wheel; "Fliers" on the Spindle, Continuous in Action; Capacity Seven Times That of Hand Spindle. DUTCH WHEEL Spinner Sits in Front of the Wheel—Spinning Flax at Hull House. Distaff Later the distaff was used for holding the bunch of wool, flax, or other fibers. It was a short stick on one end of which was loosely wound the raw material. The other end of the distaff was held in the hand, under the arm or thrust in the girdle of the spinner. When held thus, one hand was left free for drawing out the fibers. Graphic Diagram Showing Time During which Different Methods of Spinning Has Been Used. Wheel Spinning On the small spinning wheel the distaff was placed in the end of the wheel bench in front of the "fillers"; this left both hands free to manage the spindle and to draw out the threads of the fibers.