Hair Bump (Pseudofolliculitis Barbae) Skin Care Routine Pseudofolliculitis barbae (PFB) is a chronic inflammatory condition caused by curled or coiled hairs growing back into the skin after shaving, leading to painful razor bumps, ingrown hairs, papules, pustules, and hyperpigmentation. It most commonly affects the beard and neck areas, and is especially prevalent among Black men. Part I: Hair Removal 1. Wash hands 2. Cleanse (Pre-Hair Removal) Bare minimum: Gentle cleanser (removes bacteria, sweat, and oil) Best option: Exfoliating cleanser (BHA or gentle scrub) helps remove dead skin that can trap hairs Examples: Gentle face scrubs, salicylic acid wash, enzyme exfoliants If using depilatories = no exfoliation beforehand, just cleanse + soften (warm water or warm compress), and hydrate barrier deeply afterward 2. Warm Water Rinse or Warm Compress ● Hydrates and softens hair, causes it to swell slightly = less resistance during cutting ● This makes hair less likely to curl back into the skin post-shave 3. Hair Removal Note: Do not use disposable razors. They cut hair below the skin’s surface, which increases the risk of ingrown hairs and razor bumps. Trimmers, safety razors, and depilatories remove hair at or just above the skin, making them far safer for preventing PFB. A. Trimmer B. Safety Razor Note for both: Always with the grain. C. Depilatory Cream - Only every 2-3 days - Do ½ of face and neck first and wait the specified amount of time (usually 5-10 min). Rinse. Apply to the remainder of the face and neck, wait the specified amount of time. Rinse, pat dry. 1 4. Rinse. 5. Second Cleanse After Trimmer or Safety Razor Minimum: Gentle cleanser (non-stripping) to remove debris, shaving cream, and bacteria Best: A. Exfoliating cleanser (salicylic acid, enzyme, or very gentle physical scrub) = clears dead skin that could trap the fresh-cut hairs B. Hibiclens + gentle physical scrub (in place of exfoliating cleanser, not with it) = kills bacteria to prevent folliculitis/infection C. Exfoliating Cleanser then Clindamycin (topical wipe or gel, post-wash) = prevents bacterial inflammation at the follicle After Using a Depilatory Note: No exfoliation — the skin barrier is compromised Minimum: Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water to remove all chemical residue Best: Gentle, non-foaming cleanser (if tolerated) Avoid all actives (including azelaic acid, clindamycin, exfoliants, or vitamin C) for at least 24–48 hours post-depilatory use. Use only hydrating and barrier-repair products. Depilatories already disrupt the skin, so the focus after is cooling + healing. Part II: Skin Care / After-Treatment 1. Following hair removal, apply a dedicated razor bump prevention product of your choice 2. Serum Trimmer or Safety Razor: A. Preferred product: azelaic acid serum of your choice = Azelaic acid is anti-inflammatory and antibacterial. It helps calm irritated hair follicles, prevents future ingrowns, and fades post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation B. Or other serum of your choice based on skincare needs 2 Optional: apply a medicated topical such as over the counter adapalene gel (Differin) or prescriptions like Clindamycin + benzoyl gel, benzoyl peroxide gel, hydroquinone, or similar treatments following serum (to reduce post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation). Speak to your doctor. = Exfoliants like adapalene, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and urea can thin the outer skin, helping prevent trapped hairs. Glycolic acid also helps to reduce inflammation. Retinoids like adapalene are often a first-line treatment for PFB. Depilatory: A. Hydrating Serums, hyaluronic acid serums = Replenishes moisture, soothes tightness B. Niacinamide Serums (Low to Mid Strength) = Calms redness, supports barrier repair, reduces inflammation Tip: Use 5% or less if your skin is easily reactive C. Centella or Aloe-Based Serums = Excellent for barrier support and calming sensitivity Avoid These After Depilatory Use (for 24–48 hrs): ● Vitamin C serums (ascorbic acid) ● Azelaic acid ● Retinol/retinoids ● Exfoliating acids (glycolic, lactic, salicylic) 3. Moisturizer = Replenishes hydration lost during shaving, cleansing, or depilatory use. Seals in your treatment serum and helps calm inflammation Look for moisturizers that are: ● Fragrance-free ● Contain barrier-repair ingredients like Centella asiatica, niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, or oat extract ● Lightweight but non-comedogenic (won’t clog pores) Optional: For inflammation or itching, use a 1% hydrocortisone cream sparingly for up to 1–3 days Add a scar cream or spot treatment after moisturizer if needed (e.g., Mederma PM for hyperpigmentation/dark spots) 3 Silicone-based scar gels (works to smooth raised scars, not for dark spots and hyperpigmentation) can be applied after moisturizing once skin is fully healed from shaving/depilatory use. 4. Sunscreen = Protects healing skin and prevents dark spots from getting worse. Use SPF 30 or higher, every morning—even if you’re not going outside long. Recommended Products and Suggestions (These are products I’ve used and had success with, but they’re not the only ones that work What matters most is sticking to the structure of the routine.) Trimmer Note: Look for a trimmer that cuts just above the skin, not below it . Avoid mesh-foil designs or anything that shaves too close—they can trigger more ingrowns. You want something with an exposed blade edge that trims clean without digging. The one I personally use is discontinued, but the model listed here is similar in design and function. I actually use the replacement blades from that one for mine—they’re a direct fit. HAPPY NUTS The Ballber™ Electric Body Hair Trimmer Replacement Blade (Ballber) Depilatories Neomen hair removal cream Note: When choosing an alternate depilatory, use one without barium sulfide or sodium thioglycollate as these are more irritating and more likely to burn the skin. Opt for fragrance free formulations. Face Wash/Cleansers Haruharu Wonder Black Rice Moisture 5.5 Soft Cleansing Gel (Gentle cleanser, unscented) SOME BY MI AHA BHA PHA 30 Days Miracle Acne Clear Foam (Salicylic acid cleanser) Peach Slices Acne Clarifying Cleanser (Salicylic acid cleanser) NOW Foods Solutions, Vitamin C and Manuka Honey Gel Cleanser 4 Exfoliating Cleansers ROUND LAB Soybean Nourishing Scrub Foam Cleanser Serums Cos De BAHA Azelaic Acid 10% Facial Serum Naturium Azelaic Topical Acid 10% Treatment Azure Cosmetics Vitamin C Face Serum (or their other serum options on that page based on your need) Azure Cosmetics Hemp & Argan Nourishing Korean Facial Oil Cos De BAHA Hyalauronic Acid B5 (D-Panthenol 4%) Serum Moisturizers PURITO Centella Unscented Cream PURITO Oat In Calming Gel Cream HEIMISH Matcha Biome Oil-free Calming Gel Moisturizer COSRX Ultimate Nourishing Rice Overnight Spa Mask (Apply at night) Scar creams Mederma PM Intensive Overnight Scar Cream (for hyperpigmentation/dark spots) Antimicrobial & Antiseptic Important Notes: Never use Hibiclens and clindamycin together—it’s overkill and increases irritation risk Avoid contact with eyes, ears, or mucous membranes at all costs—it can cause serious burns. Use a damp washcloth or reusable facial cleansing pad to apply and a thoroughly rinsed and damp washcloth/cleansing pad to wipe it off and rinse very well to reduce the risk of contact with eyes, ears, and mucous membranes. Always rinse it off—don’t use it as a leave-on like a toner or wipe Hibiclens Antiseptic Antimicrobial Skin Cleanser 4oz Foam Pump Hibiclens Antimicrobial, Antiseptic Soap and Skin Cleanser 8oz Prescriptions Clindamycin pledgets, Azelaic Acid Cream 5 Red Light Therapy = Red light therapy supports post-shave healing by reducing inflammation, speeding up skin repair, and gradually improving discoloration. I do this for my full face and neck area. The product I use is the Solawave 4-in-1 Radiant Renewal Skincare Wand with Red Light Therapy. However, you definitely don’t need this particular one if you’re in the market for a red light therapy wand. There are plenty of alternatives at a much better price on amazon for example and you can also buy new in box, sealed in plastic, Solawave wands on ebay and similar sites for around $60 or less. The newest editions have the head of the wand vertical and in line with the rest of the wand, creating an “I” shape. Not horizontal, resulting in a “T” shape (those are the older models). Solawave 4-in-1 Radiant Renewal Skincare Wand with Red Light Therapy Aloe Vera Gel (for red light therapy) benatu Aloe Vera Gel Red Light Therapy for PFB: How Often and When Frequency: Use 3–5 times per week for best results. Most people benefit from doing it every other day. Duration per session: 5–10 minutes per area (e.g., beard/neck area), depending on your wand’s instructions Best time: At night, after cleansing but before applying serums or moisturizers → This gives clean skin full exposure, avoids product interference, and supports healing overnight. Routine Example with Red Light Therapy (Night) 1. Cleanse (gentle or exfoliating) 2. Pat skin dry 3. Apply aloe vera gel or a water-based conductive gel (optional, if using a wand that glides) 4. Use red light wand for 5–10 minutes 5. Wipe off gel if needed 6. Apply serum (like azelaic acid if using razor/trimmer—not after depilatory) 7. Moisturizer Avoid doing red light therapy if: ● You just used a depilatory that day (wait at least 24–48 hrs) ● Your skin is raw, peeling, or overly irritated 6 General Guide Notes And Tips: ● This skincare routine is harsh and drying on the skin so moisturization is absolutely crucial to mitigate further irritation. ● Recommended products are EDTA / Disodium EDTA / Disodium edetate due to a personal allergy (but if you’re also allergic, be sure to double check the ingredients yourself), so all specific products are free of this ingredient. Therefore, based on specific skin needs and allergies or sensitivities, other products can be used. ● If hair removal cream is substituted, use one without barium sulfide or sodium thioglycollate as these are far more irritating and more likely to burn the skin. Opt for fragrance free formulations. ● Make sure your hands and instruments are clean during this routine. ● Remove any irritating products as needed. ● Silicone scar gels to reduce textured and bumpy scarred skin can be added to this routine, as well as hyperpigmentation scar creams like Mederma products to reduce dark spots. Prescription scar creams are also available. Speak to your doctor. Quick Routine Recap for PFB: ● Before hair removal: Wash hands → cleanse (gentle or exfoliating) → warm water or compress ● Hair removal: Trimmer, safety razor (with the grain), or depilatory (½ at a time) ● After hair removal: Rinse → cleanse again ○ Best options: exfoliating cleanser or Hibiclens (not both) ○ Skip exfoliants if using depilatory ● Serum: Azelaic acid (unless post-depilatory) ● Moisturizer: Hydrating + barrier repair ingredients ● Sunscreen (AM): SPF 30+ every morning 7 Quick Ingredient Appendix Ingredient Purpose Azelaic Acid Reduces inflammation and fades dark spots caused by ingrown hairs Clindamycin Antibacterial; prevents and treats follicular infections Salicylic Acid Unclogs pores and helps exfoliate dead skin that can trap hairs Niacinamide Calms irritation, reduces redness, supports barrier, and fades discoloration Centella / Aloe Soothes and heals irritated or sensitized skin Glycolic Acid Exfoliates and reduces inflammation; helps fade post-shave dark spots Adapalene A retinoid that helps prevent ingrown hairs by speeding up cell turnover Urea Gently exfoliates and softens skin to prevent trapped hairs Hyaluronic Acid Hydrates and plumps skin; supports post-shave barrier repair Panthenol (B5) Moisturizing and soothing; helps heal barrier irritation 8 References Dalia, Y., Khatib, J., Odens Jr, H., & Patel, T. (2023). Review of treatments for pseudofolliculitis barbae. Clinical and Experimental Dermatology, 48(6), 591-598. Goldstein, B. G., & Goldstein, A. O. (2023). Pseudofolliculitis barbae. UpToDate. Retrieved May 1, 2025, from https://www.uptodate.com/contents/pseudofolliculitis-barbae Jung, I., Lannan, F. M., Weiss, A., & Cho, S. (2023). Treatment and Current Policies on Pseudofolliculitis Barbae in the US Military. Cutis, 112(6). Ogunbiyi, A. (2019). Pseudofolliculitis barbae; current treatment options. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 12, 241-247. 9