Ten Degree is a crag that truly borders the wilds of Maine. Located north of Byron and south of Rangely it rises 350’- 400’ from the Bemis Track ( an old rail road bed that was used years ago ). In recent years the crag has fallen into a quiet slumber of inactivity. During the 80’s and 90’s many climbs were established and there was usually a small crowd on good weekends ( even training visits from the national guard ). Rumford locals pioneered the area making ascents of many of the classic multi pitch routes, later climbers from the south as well elsewhere put up a wide diversity of routes. Trails were maintained from crag to crag and there was an obvious path from the road. Today the trails have grown over and many of the routes have become vegetated from lack of use. However, with over 80 routes, no where in the state is there a cliff with such diverse climbing and good quality rock. Ten Degree is not noted for steep jug pulling, although It has a wide assortment of steep cracks; ( hand, finger, and fist ); featured face climbs; both bolted ( sport ) and runout; and clean friction lines on smooth granite. It also has a couple of 5.10 / 5.9 multi pitch classics. Climbing grades range from 5.5 to 5.12, and all 15 minutes ( double it for bushwhacking) or so from the road. Without a doubt the best time to climb here is in September and October, usually by then the black flies have fled. Spring can be good as the crag faces south, but the road in can be washed out by winter runoff ( a few staging planks, serving as bridging, tied to the roof racks can solve this problem ). There is good camping and swimming on nearby Mooselookmeguntic lake making it a great late summer destination. So until Ten Degree attracts a little more traffic bring along a brush or as we locals know; just add a grade if it looks a little chossy. The Faces of Ten Degree: Above: Jack Maylunas belays climber on “Raven’s Dance”; a multi pitch friction climb. Below Left: Steve Dyer leading the Entrance Corner. Below right: Rick Freduand crimps out “ On the Tweak Again “ Above: This map was drawn in the 90’s, unfortunately many of the trails have grown over. Below: The Main Wall of Ten Degree, The big book in the center of the cliff is a classic 3 pitcher. Army Wall or Military Wall The Army Wall is the closest crag to the road. It consists of 2 steep walls connected by an alcove. All climbs can be descended by rapping trees. Parts of the wall can be wet, especially neaer the Brown Crack. On the Tweak Again, Big Dipper, and Singalong are usually dry. Some of the easier cracks have become mossy from lack of traffic. The crag ranges between 50’ - 70’ high. # 1 “ On The Tweak Again” 5.11a/b ; A good sport climb. FA R. Baker # 2 “ Singalong “ 5.12a: Excellent well protected crack, FFA R.Baker ? # 3 unknown; climb the crack, joins Brown Crack FA Rumford Lads # 4“ Brown Crack” 5.10d; Fingers and hand jams, often wet. # 5 unknown 5.8; climb crack system # 6 unknown 5.8; Actually a pretty nice finger crack FA Rumford Lads # 7 unknown 5.6; Big crack system # 8 Big Dipper 5.11d; Climb arete, 3 bolts, small cam. FA R. Baker # 9 unknown 5.9; arete/crack system FA Rumford Lads # 10 unknown steep face climbing leads to crack# 11 unknown; right of # 11 this may have been top roped. steep face The Army Wall is the closest crag to the road. It consists of 2 steep walls connected by an alcove. All climbs can be descended by rapping trees. Parts of the wall can be wet, especially near the Brown Crack. On the Tweak Again, Big Dipper, and Singalong are usually dry. Some of the easier cracks have become mossy from lack of traffic. The crag ranges between 50’ - 70’ high. Shady Wall The Shady Wall is located left and below of the Army Wall. It is the lowest of all the crags at 10 Degree. Approach for the others, however, as trail steepens head left over talus to the cliff system. The wall is steep # 1 Project; steep face 40’ # 2 Charlieville 5.11d; climb overhanging wall/ corner to thin steep layback crack. pin and bolt; 40’ # 3 Project; steep flaring chimney, striking feature; 40’ # 4 Unknown; 5.10; steep, dirty, sometimes wet hand crack. 40’ # 5 Afternoon nap 5.9; Located on the slab on the upper right hand section of the wall. start high, move up crack, move left ( friction ), crack becomes corner, zig zag to the top. FA Mari and Randy Baker The Beehive This excellent small crag lies above the Army/Military Wall and above the Stump Wall. It is approached by scrambling - up a gully located just left of the Army Wall. Once above the Army Wall hike up and right until the Beehive is reached. This crag is about 35 - 40 feet high and hosts some good face climbing as well as a couple of easier cracks. # 1 Easy Crack 5.5; located on left side; FA Mari Baker # 2 The Beehive 5.11c; 2 bolts, pin, # 3 cam; excellent short, “crimpy”, face climb with bouldery start; FA R.Baker # 3 The Naughty Nest 5.9; Fun crack system located right of The Beehive; Rap off tree: FA R.Baker # 4 Tall Timber 5.11b; right of Naughty Nest; start via an undercling ( large cams ) up bolts to anchor. strenuous; FA R.Baker # 5 Hive Five 5.7; obvious crack right of tall timber; FA R.Baker # 6 Flora and Fauna 5.11b; located 100 feet or so right on a featured,clean looking slab; bolts and cams; good climb FA R.Baker # 7 Gully Wizard 5.8; Hard to find; located in top of a scree gully; climb the arete. 35’ #8 - 10 The Alley; this area sports some fun short top rope climbs. The Alley is located in the gully below Gully Wizard. The Stump Wall The Stump Wall is located up and right of the Army/Military Wall. It is approached by scrambling up a gully right of the Army Wall and left of the Main Wall. Beware of Poison Ivy. The wall is roughly 90 feet in height and is defined by a diagonal crack running up the steep face. # 1 unknown 5.9? up ledges to corner # 2 unknown 5.9? climb corner to trees above # 3 Stump Crack 5.10d; climb the diagonal crack in the steep wall; wide crack past bolt to a stance, move left and up a thin crack; fixed nuts, pin 80’; Rap off trees FA Rumford Crowd # 4 Nervous Disorder 5.10d; located in the alcove right of Stump Crack. Climb the gully and fire the overhanging hand off width crack; large cams; FA R.Baker # 5 Autumn Gold 5.10b; climb the brown slab past two bolts. FA Jack Maylunas and Amy Malette # 6 Project; tried several times; right of Stump crack. Randy Baker starting Stump Crack Photo by Steve Dyer The Main Wall The Main Wall is the center piece of Ten Degree. At it’s highest point it rises 350’ from the deck. In the center of the wall several large dihedral systems blanket the face. There are several classic multi - pitch climbs here, first pioneered by locals from the Rumford Area. Approach involves hiking up and then left, threading through boulders until the left side of the main wall is reached. The Main Wall area, although somewhat overgrown in recent years, is reminiscent of a smaller version of Cathedral Ledge. The rock is clean granite with a number of cracks and featured steep face climbing. To the left, the crag lessens in height and there are several tiers as well as some good belay stances. To the right the crag becomes less steep and the rock smoother, producing some fine friction climbing. There is some fixed gear, included a 3 pitch bolted friction route, a couple of older routes with 1/4” bolts, and a few pitons. A standard rack is best for this area. Unfortunately, the drawback to climbing here is some poison ivy at the base. # 1 Old Tennesee 5.10b; Starts on the left side of the main wall. Climbs a broken arete with cracks and bolts; FA Jack Maylunas # 2 Bemis 5.10d; climbs the clean looking arete past 7 bolts; quick draws; FA R.Baker # 3 Unknown 5.8; climbs the finger crack system right of Bemis; nuts, cams # 4 Unknown 5.9+; climbs a hand crack up to a ledge; nuts,cams # 5 Unknown 5.9+?; climbs a series of corners # 6 Entrance Crack 5.9; climb the corner then move left to a ledge and anchors; nuts and cams; # 7 Stem it; 5.10d; Climb a double corner system with some cracks and wild stems; nuts,cams; # 8 Unnamed 5.9; climb arete on the right side on stem it; tope rope # 9 Plumbago 5.10a; climb the featured rock past 3 bolts to top of the pillar; small cams helpful; bolts, cams, and nuts; FA R.Baker # 10 Kennebago 5.11c; make bouldery moves to gain a slab; climb past 6 bolts and a pin; small cam optional; rap off; FA R.Baker # 11 Ten Degree 5.10b/c; a 3 pitch New England classic, fa Rumford crowd # 12 Crack variation ( Direct ) 5.9+; Instead of traversing left climb the crack straight up; 2 - 3 pitches; standard rack # 13 Brimstone 5.10b; climb the first pitch of Ten degree or a route on the Wavy Gravy Wall to top of ledge system. Step left and on to a steep face past several pins. 2 pitches; great climb. Standard rack: FA Rumford crowd # 14 Unknown 5.9+ ?; After gaining steep face, move right on to arete and climb up. #15 - 18 Wavy Wall Section. This is the steep 80’ Wall right of the climb “Ten Degree” The climbs are single pitch; descent is made by rappelling from the tree at top. All the climbs on The Wavy Wall can access The multi - pitch routes of Ten Degree and Brimstone. The climbs on the left side are longer in length as the top of the wall slopes downward. There is a classic 5.7/5.8 face/arete that follows the ridge to the top. Further right from here is the friction slabs. Main Wall continued ( Wavy Wall Section ) # 1 Start to Ten Degree 5.7; climb the chossy crack # 1a Sky Ladder 5.10b; Climb past a pin to a stance, move up to a horizontal crack, past a bolt, and up. FA R.Baker # 2 Jacob’s Ladder 5.10a; protects better then it looks. Cams, nuts, bolt # 3 Unknown 5.9+; a bit unprotected; climb past a bolt to the arete/face # 4 Wavy Gravy 5.9+; bolt protected face climb to anchors. FA Baker # 5 variation 5.9 # 6 Unknown 5.6/5.7; climb crack to chains or finish on arete/face # 7 Unknown 5.7+; Climb face/arete past cracks and a bolt. Friction Slabs Main Wall Continued # 0 Brimstone 5.10b; Starts off the ledge and up; see above # 1 Unknown 5.7; Starts on the arete face right of the Wavy Wall. Climb cracks and slabs to a ledge. # 2 Moose jaw 5.8; climb the crack in the slab right of # 1. # 3 Unknown # 4 Arch; climb the arch # 5 Raven’s Dance 5.11c: a classic multi - pitch friction climb, protected by many bolts. Boulder up, P1 - 70’ bolted slab; 5.10c P2 - 60’ bolted, gear; 5.10a; climb to a tree. P3 - 50’ slab with 6 bolts, some gear. climb to a double anchor. P4 - crack, seam, face; bolts 5.11c; climb past 8 bolts to double anchor. rappel. FA Jack Maylunas Upper Deck Main Wall Continued # 22 Arete 5.7; # 23 Crack 5.9; # 24 Crescent Arch 5.6; # 25 Bluebird 5.8; slab climb past 2 bolts; bolts, nuts, and 1.5 cam. FA R. Baker # 26 Short and Stout. 5.9; Climb the crack/flake right of the arch. gear; FA R.Baker # 27 Unknown - ; the hard project of Ten Degree; This overhanging crack has been aided but not freed. a beautiful line. off width fingers up a overhanging arete. # 28 Unknown; hard flaring corer, may be # 27 # 29 Unknown; located above stem it, climb the flaring chimney past a pin. # 30 Project; direct start to Ten Degree ( # 11 )n East Side The East Side is located o n the right hand side of the cliff. It is the next section of cliff right of the friction slabs ( a gully separates the two ). Climbs range up to a hundred feet high and many of the routes display crack climbing. Follow the base of the cliff right past the friction slabs crossing a gully until one is reunited with the crag. # 1 Flake 5.9; Climb the obvious flake to a stance. # 1a Flake 5.6; Climb the easier flake to the top # 2 Unknown 5.9; climb crack - flake # 3 Unknown 5.7; climb the crack # 4 Project ( Mizzen Top Sail ) starts on the ledges and heads left and up. Aid the crux top # 5 Project # 6 Polar Star 5.10c; a great climb with good pro ( nuts, cams, bolts ). The initial crack is 9+, followed by bolted slab climbing, then back to cracks, finishing with the crux bolted slab. FA R.Baker # 7 Dust Buster 5.10; same start as Polar star, move right and up a tricky crack. FA Pokey Amory # 8 Cory’s Climb 5.8; move right at the crack of Dust Buster, climb diag.. up FA Cory Snow # 9 Rick’s Climb 5.9:; Climb the crack left of Polar Star. FA Rick Freudand Polar Star Pitch 2 Raven’s Dance Sidereal Wall The Sidereal Wall is located on the left side and above the East Wall. There are a couple of good crack cracks here. Approach via the left side of the East wall. Scramble up a gully onto a ledge. Sidereal Wall The Sidereal Wall is located on the left side and above the East Wall. There are a couple of good crack cracks here. Approach via the left side of the East wall. Scramble up a gully onto a ledge. # 1 Sway Back 5.8; Climb the whaleback like slab past 3 bolts. Rap off trees. FA R.Baker # 2 Unknown/ unclimbed ? # 3 Project 5.12b/c ?? The crux is protected by a bolt. Thin face climbing on a steep slab. # 4 Vega 5.10 b/c; nice finger crack, well protected; FA R.Baker # 5 Orion 5.7+; another nice finger crack; FA R.Baker Swimming Hole Wall This crag is not part of the others it is actually located about a mile northwest on the road. Follow Bemis road until it narrows, look for a road cut ( beyond the talus ) with a steep bank on the left that goes down to the stream. Park here. Walk down. The 35’ - 40’ overhanging wall is on the opposite side of the stream. Swimming might be stretching it, but at least one can take a dip. # 1 Peeper Scout 5.8+; Climb the detached flake past 2 bolts, tcu’s/small nuts; FA R.Baker # 2 Bush Pilot 5.10a; Climb past 4 bolts FA Baker # 3 Rabble to Arms 5.11a/b; good climb, past 5 bolts on overhanging wall. FA R.Baker ( Unfortunately, a 4 bolt anchor has been added ). # 4 Flight of Icarus 5.10b; another good climb, past 5 bolts; walk off; FA Roland Fortin (Unfortunately, this climb has also been retro bolted w/ 2 more bolts, eliminating 2/3 moves at the end.