TOR SALE BRITISH SUBJECTS JH LOTS TO SUIT PURCHASERS. GOLD-DUST AMO IVORY TAKW IN EXCHANGE . ^SPECIALTIES TOREUnVES-pl^^: The True Story of GERMAN BIGHT and the Island that Britain Betrayed GEORGE DROWER ‘There are warnings of gales in Viking, North Utsire, South Utsire, Forties, Dogger, Fisher, German Bight. . . ’ I n 1956 sea area Heligoland became German Bight. But why did the North Sea island at its heart, which for nearly a century had demonstrated its loyalty to Britain, lose its identity? How had this once peaceful haven become, as Admiral Jacky Fisher exclaimed, ‘a dagger pointed at England’s heart’? Behind the renaming of Heligoland lies a catalogue of deceit, political ambition, blunder and daring. Now, for the first time, George Drower unravels the evidence to tell the compelling story of how the island and its vulnerable inhabitants came to be used as pawns in European power politics. Heligoland came under British rule in the nineteenth century, a ‘Gibraltar’ of the North Sea. Then, in 1890, despite the islanders’ wishes, Lord Salisbury announced his intention to swap Heligoland for Germany’s presence in Zanzibar. The Prime Minister’s decision unleashed a storm of controversy. Queen Victoria telegrammed from Balmoral to register her fury. But Heligoland’s language and customs were overthrown and its administration subsumed under a new power. During both world wars, it was used by Germany to control the North Sea, and RAF planes bombed the once-British territory. After the Nazi defeat, the islanders were forcibly exiled. continued on back flap UK £14.99 0042008069 HELIGOLAND Heligoland is only 290 miles from the British coast. HELIGOLAND The True Story of German Bight and the Island that Britain Betrayed George drower 9^-<T(Z SUTTON PUBLISHING First published in the United Kingdom in 2002 by Sutton Publishing Limited • Phoenix Mill Thrupp • Stroud • Gloucestershire • GL5 2BU Copyright © George Drower, 2002 All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the publisher and copyright holder. George Drower has asserted the moral right to be identified as the author of this work. British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 0-7509-2600-7 To the people of Heligoland Typeset in ll/14pt Melior. Typesetting and origination by Sutton Publishing Limited. Printed and bound in England by J.H. Haynes & Co. Ltd, Sparkford. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 vii ix 1 32 57 75 101 128 153 183 215 251 281 293 301 318 Contents Acknowledgements Introduction HMS Explosion Arrives Gibraltar of the North Sea Rivalries in Africa Queen Victoria Opposes Swapped Riddle of the Rock Churchill Prepares to Invade Project Hummerschere ‘Big Bang’ The Islanders Return Epilogue Notes Bibliography Index * Acknowledgements In Heligoland research for this book was done at the Lesehalle Biicherel, and the Nordsee Museum; in Hamburg, at the Museum fur Hamburgische Geschichte; in Belfast, at the Public Record Office of Northern Ireland; in London, at the British Library, Imperial College, the Imperial War Museum, Institute of Historical Research, London School of Economics, the Public Record Office (Kew) and the RAF Museum. To the librarians of those establishments I am grateful. Additional data was provided by the Falkland Islands Archives, in the Falkland Islands; Hatfield House, Herts; the National Maritime Museum, Greenwich; and the Royal Commonwealth Society Collection at the University of Cambridge. I am grateful for the co¬ operation of: the late Sir Bernard Braine; former Biirgermeister Henry Rickmers, and Sue Wichers of the Helgoland Regierung; and my special thanks go to David and Mary Brooks for their welcoming dinners. ' Introduction ‘There are warnings of gales in Viking, North Utsire, South Utsire, Forties, Dogger, Fisher Those sea area reports, which are read out on the UK’s Radio 4’s Shipping Forecast, all have their own recognisable personalities and quintessentially British-sounding names. A curious exception is the one called ‘German Bight’. It is a wild 20,000-square-mile area of sea and coast which stretches between two headlands: near the Dutch island of Texel, to the Jutland port of Esbjerg. For many centuries seafarers knew this tempestuous corner of the North Sea as the ‘Heligoland Bight’. That was until 1956 when, in the absence of any British government objections, the Meteorological Office arranged for it to be renamed. For secretive reasons it was not Germany which preferred to keep Heligoland Bight airbrushed out of its history, and with it the remarkable story of the forgotten island at its heart — from which the Bight’s true name derives. Then on 18 August 1965 a file marked ‘Secret’ landed on the desk of the Foreign Secretary, Michael Stewart. At that time Britain was having to protect the inhabitants of Gibraltar against an economic siege by Spain, which was demanding sovereignty of the Rock. Yet the Foreign Office was willing to become more radical in its steps to cope with such ‘End of Empire’ dilemmas. Soon it would contemplate handing over the X INTRODUCTION Falkland Islands to Argentina. Secretly, in order for Britain to conduct hydrogen bomb tests, it had arranged for the eviction of the coconut gatherers from Christmas Island, and was already preparing to deport the inhabitants of Diego Garcia from their homeland, to lend it to the United States to develop into a military base. Stewart was intrigued to see that this report concerned none of those. It was from the British Ambassador to Germany, Sir Frank Roberts, who had just attended a 75th anniversary celebration in a North Sea island which even the Foreign Secretary had never heard of. The ambassador, who had been astounded by the good-natured welcome he had received in this former British colony, reported that: ‘Everywhere I heard comments from the Islanders on the tradition of the benevolence of the British Governors.’ In August 1890, when it was still an enchantingly obscure British possession, Heligoland had become the focus of international attention as the hapless bait in an astonishingly epic imperial deal to persuade Kaiser Wilhelm II’s Germany to hand over substantial elements of the continent of Africa. In Britain the audacious, and quite unprecedented, territorial swap provoked public protests that August. Even Queen Victoria furiously remonstrated that the two thousand inhabitants of this sophisticated island were being callously sacrificed like pawns in an arrogant diplomatic chess game. Unexpectedly, the story of Britain’s involvement with Heligoland continued after the transfer of sovereignty in 1890. There was cause bitterly to lament Lord Salisbury’s decision to yield it in both world wars, when the strategically vital island was turned against Britain. It was becoming, as Admiral of the Fleet ‘Jacky’ Fisher, exclaimed, ‘a dagger pointed at INTRODUCTION xi England’s heart’. In its waters was fought the Battle of Heligoland Bight, the first surface scrimmage of the First World War; and next, the Cuxhaven Raid, the first organised seaplane attack. Started on the island was ‘Project Hummerschere’, an ambitious scheme in the interwar years to construct a German form of Scapa Flow - so important that it was visited by Hitler in 1938. During the Second World War there came to be further significant historic records: for example, in 1940 the RAF’s first mass night bombing raid of that conflict was made over the Bight. And then, unbeknown to many, Britain next inflicted on Heligoland a misdeed far worse than a mere swap. Between 1945 and 1952 the Heligolanders were exiled to mainland Germany while the British - probably illegally - used the island as a bombing range for high-explosive and chemical weapons, and evidently as a test-site for various elements of Britain’s prototype atomic bomb. Even now the quaint mile- long island still bears the scars, albeit now hidden by lush vegetation. Such was the severity of the bomb damage suffered in April 1945, when the 140-acre former British colony was attacked by the RAF with a thousand-bomber raid, that the windswept upper plateau remains buckled and twisted like the cratered flight deck of a crippled aircraft carrier. Despite such devastation, there remain a few indelible clues to its British colonial past: a street named after an English governor, and a church wall bearing a shrapnel-scarred bronze tablet honouring Queen Victoria. For all its commercial sophistication, Heligoland is a beguiling place, guided predominantly by the rhythms of the seasons. Its people are a tough, independently minded, close-knit community of seafaring folk: strong, stoic, quiet and slow-moving. Their first loyalty is to INTRODUCTION xii their island and their outlook so innately maritime that they instinctively keep their sturdy houses and tiny gardens neat and shipshape. On the walls of their hotels, guest houses and even private houses hang maritime pictures — sometimes of old British merchant ships. Traditionally, despite Heligoland’s constitutional links to the states of Denmark, Britain and then Germany, they have continuously sustained a deep perception of themselves and their island as a distinct and viable nation. Not untypically for inhabitants of small islands, their downfall has been their reluctance to sustain an effective representation of themselves in influential political arenas abroad until it is too late. Known to the Germans as ‘Helgoland’, for simple linguistic reasons, the island lies tantalisingly close to Germany’s North Sea coast. Even so, the severity of the weather in the Heligoland Bight means tourist ferries dare to make the 30-mile crossing only during the summer months. German trippers willing to brave the often stormy trip arrive from Hamburg and the coastal ports of the coasts of Lower Saxony and Schleswig- Holstein. By late morning the graceful white ferries have converged on the roadstead, where they ride at anchor until the late afternoon; then, fearful of being caught in the Bight after dark, they wisely scurry off home. To visitors, the island seems to represent an earlier, more innocent world, and one which has no need for cars or even bicycles. Goods are moved on four-wheeled hand-trolleys, rather like miniature corn wagons. Each year tens of thousands of tourists are drawn to the island, some of them attracted by its defiantly anachronistic allure as one of Western Europe’s last outposts of duty-free shopping. Some trippers go for the chance of a few hours’ bathing on the nearby dependency, Sandy Island, and a few for the INTRODUCTION xiii exceptionally clear sea air, which is claimed to be the secret of the islanders’ remarkably healthy old age. Heligoland became a British colony in 1807, and from the very outset it was strategically important because of its location in the ‘corner’ of the North Sea near the estuary of the Elbe and three other great rivers. During the Napoleonic wars the island played a crucial role as a forward base for the officially endorsed smuggling of contraband to the continent, and also as a centre for intelligence gathering. After the wars it established itself as a tourist resort, on the initiative of an entrepreneurial islander, and settled down to life as a British colony. For Britain, a major world power with more island colonies scattered across the globe than it knew what to do with, Heligoland was not unique. But for neighbouring Germany,- it was very much a novelty. Artists, poets and nationalists venerated Heligoland, all too often - to the bemusement of the islanders - devising ludicrous fantasies that it embodied the essence of the Germanic spirit. In 1841 Heinrich Hoffmann von Fallersleben wrote Germany’s (old) national anthem there (while it was still under British rule!) Few were more enchanted with the romance of the place than Kaiser Wilhelm II; some years before he was crowned, he visited the island and vowed to make it German. Bismarck, his Chancellor, regarded Heligoland in terms of its strategic disadvantages as a British outpost, and coveted it for many years, not least to provide security for his pet project, the Kiel Canal. Indeed, he even suggested to Prime Minister William Gladstone that the island might be exchanged for an enclave in India called Pondicherry. This was refused. But in August 1890 Lord Salisbury (who was both Prime Minister and Foreign Secretary) prepared to XIV INTRODUCTION hand over this enchanting island to Germany in order to halt further German encroachments into East Africa, thereby preventing the ruthless German colonialist Dr Karl Peters - himself born near Heligoland - from gaining control of the headwaters of the Nile. This astonishingly arrogant deal - concerning which the islanders’ opinions were never sought - included Zanzibar and various border areas in East Africa. Salisbury certainly did not get everything his own way. His fiercest critic was no less a personage than Queen Victoria, who in private furiously condemned Salisbury for even considering handing over the island. British newspapers and cartoonists were nearly as scathing in their criticism. One cause of the interest in the island was its actual physical composition. The power of the waves in the Bight was such that Heligoland (and Sandy Island) was perpetually changing its shape. Coastal erosion was ongoing: sometimes barely perceptibly, but occasionally, especially in winter, dramatically, as prized sections of the cliffs disappeared overnight. And yet somehow Heligoland retained a magical quality of indestructibility. No matter what Nature (or Allied bombers) could hurl at it, the island would always survive. For decades none of this has ever needed to be known to British travellers because few^ if any, caught even the most distant glimpse of the island. Passengers on civilian airliners never see Heligoland through the portholes because all the aircraft that shuttle between England and the main northern German cities - Bremen, Hanover, Hamburg and Berlin - cross the North Sea coast over the Netherlands. And even the car ferries operating between Harwich and nearby Cuxhaven often sail past the island at night. INTRODUCTION xv In view of the number of significant events and personages with which it has been associated, it is astonishing that Heligoland has remained so undiscovered. It is only 290 miles from Great Yarmouth, yet very few people in Britain even know of its existence at the centre of the stormy Bight. Each year, on 9 August, the islanders gather at their town hall, the Nordseehalle, for a dignified public commemoration of the 1890 cession. But no British person ever attends it. By an extraordinary series of oversights, Heligoland has repeatedly missed out on opportunities to make the headlines in Britain. It broke a remarkable assortment of historical records: in addition to having the quaint distinction of being Britain’s smallest colonial possession, Heligoland was also Britain’s only colony in northern Europe. The first sea battle of the First World War was fought in its waters, while in the Second World War it was reputed to have been the first piece of German territory upon which RAF bombs fell. Then, in the postwar era, it secretly figured in Britain’s atomic bomb programme. So often it slipped through the net. In Victorian times its people were seldom invited to colonial gatherings, and later, when the British Commonwealth began to take shape in the 1920s, it did not participate in that either because it no longer had any constitutional links with Britain. Both the 25th and the 50th anniversaries of its transfer into German hands coincided with more dramatic events in the First and Second World Wars respectively, and so the occasions passed unnoticed in Britain. Several interesting consequences have flowed from this lack of wider British knowledge of Heligoland. Almost invariably it has allowed Whitehall a freer hand, almost always at the expense of the interests of the island. In the xv i INTRODUCTION nineteenth century the preposterously untrue German claims - some of them made by Kaiser Wilhelm II himself - that Heligoland had originally been German, went ignored or unchallenged and, however baseless, gained common currency. Government secrecy has certainly played a part in the island’s history. At first it was as a matter of traditional diplomatic practice that details of the 1807 accession treaty were not publicly disclosed until 1890. More recently there are grounds for wondering whether official attempts have been made to brush aside embarrassing details of Britain’s treatment of Heligoland. Dusty ledgers at the Public Record Office at Kew clearly show in fine copperplate handwriting that several ‘sensitive’ documents concerning the attitudes of the islanders to the swap deal have been destroyed. However, the Heligolanders have clear memories of the misdemeanours committed against their island. This is their story of the island that Britain knew as the ‘Gibraltar of the North Sea’.