Copyright 2017 - Kustom Power - ISBN#: 978-0-692-68208-1 Table of Contents Some of Your Questions Building Your Solar Wizard Testing Your Solar Wizard Upgrading Your Solar Wizard Some of Your Questions A good way to become familiar with the Solar Wizard is to peruse the following Pictorial, and then take a look at some of the questions that I’m asked most often. You can find the answers to a few of those most frequently asked questions here. What is the Solar Wizard? The Solar Wizard is a highly efficient electric power generator that produces electricity directly from the energy of the sun's rays. Since these rays are an inexhaustible and free source of energy, the Solar Wizard produces totally (100%) FREE electricity - and lots of it! Is the Solar Wizard expensive? Not at all! The entire concept of the Solar Wizard is based upon economy and simplicity. By following the easy step-by-step and illustrated plans and procedures of this manual, you can custom build your Solar Wizard to suit your own needs as well as your budget. By being creative, you can build a basic, but complete, system for as little as $200! From there you can readily build upon and expand your basic system as time and money allows. There's really no limit to the power generating capacity of the Solar Wizard. Every dollar invested in your Solar Wizard will eventually be returned to you many times over as FREE ELECTRICITY! Is the Solar Wizard reliable? The Solar Wizard is totally (100%) reliable. That's because of its totally (100%) solid-state electronic construction. With no moving parts to fail or wear out, the Solar Wizard provides many years of dependable, low-maintenance operation. All that's ever required is monthly cleaning of it's transparent cover to keep it working at peak efficiency. Nothing could be easier or more trouble-free! What all will my Solar Wizard power? The Solar Wizard will supply free electrical power for most home appliances, electronic devices, and lighting fixtures. However, as with all solar generators, it does have some limitations. Homes heated by electricity, whether by furnace or baseboard heaters, consume huge amounts of electricity, more than can be provided by even the largest home solar generators. In such situations it's best to supplement electric heat with a solar heating unit such as our "Sol-Air" and "Cozy Wizard" Solar Power Systems The Solar Cell The "heart" of every solar power system, regardless of its size or complexity, is the solar cell. What makes this incredible device unique is its ability to produce electricity when exposed to sunlight. Most solar cells are manufactured from materials similar to those used for electronic components such as transistors and integrated circuits. Solar cells are extremely reliable, but also fragile (almost paper-thin) and must be handled carefully to prevent damage. The Solar Cell Figure 1 When exposed to sunlight a single solar cell produces about 1/2-volt DC (Direct Current). While this is a very low voltage, it's a simple matter to connect several cells in series so that their individual voltages add on to one another. For example, by connecting 36 cells in series, about 18-volts DC will be generated. When connected to an electronic device (an inverter) 18-volts DC is converted to 115-volts AC (Alternating Current), which is a totally useful and practical voltage level for most home installations. Solar cells are manufactured in every size and shape imaginable, from square to round and everything in between. Regardless of its size or shape, every solar cell produces about 1/2-volt DC. In general, the greater the surface area of any cell, the more sunlight it is capable of absorbing - and therefore, the greater is its power generating capacity. A Complete Solar-Power System! In its simplest form, as shown in the following Figure 2, a complete solar power system consists of only two things: a single solar cell connected directly to a very low voltage (1/2-volt DC) device such as a flashlight bulb. As long as enough of the sun's rays are absorbed by the solar cell, the bulb will remain lighted. Other than to demonstrate the electric generating property of a single solar cell, such a system obviously has little practical use. A Complete Solar-Power System! Figure 2 When a solar cell absorbs sunlight it operates like an ordinary battery. Connecting cells in series (with the positive (+) terminal of each cell connected to the negative (-) terminal of the following cell) the individual voltages keep adding up, as shown in the following Figure 3. Since each solar cell generates 1/2-VDC (1/2- volt Direct Current), every second cell in a series string adds an additional 1-VDC. Thus, by connecting a total of 36 cells in series, an output of 18-VDC is generated. This is an ideal voltage level for powering the Solar Wizard inverter, allowing it to convert 18-VDC into 115-VAC (115-volts Alternating Current) of useful household power. Solar Cells - 36 Cell Series Figure 3 Purchasing solar cells as individual cells is usually the most economical way to go. However, they are also available as pre-wired "modules" arranged in various configurations. The Solar Array The module shown in the following Figure 4 contains twelve cells, capable of producing 6-VDC. Three 6- VDC modules (36 cells) connected in series will provide 18-VDC, which is the exact voltage required for the Solar Wizard. By arranging multiple modules, an "array" can be configured. This array contains twelve 6-VDC modules (144 individual cells). The Solar Array Figure 4 The modules in such an array can be interconnected to provide a wide range of voltage and power combinations. Solar Cell Power One of the most important things to consider when building a solar power system is its power output, always expressed in watts. You can build the Solar Wizard to provide any practical power level from 100 to 1,000 watts (even higher if desired). System and component costs will, of course, increase if greater power is desired. But, even relatively small systems (100 watts for example) can supply adequate power for many household appliances and devices. I recommend starting out with a small system because of its simplicity and low cost. You can always boost system power later if so desired. Solar cell capacity is rated by either power output (expressed in watts) or by current produced (expressed in amperes). If expressed in amperes, simply multiply current times voltage (1/2-volt average) to determine individual cell power. Thus, an 8 ampere cell produces 4 watts of power (8 amperes x 1/2-volt). To determine total system power, add up the power produced by all the cells. Thus, a 36-cell system such as the Solar Wizard, when equipped with 4 watt cells, will produce 144 watts (36 cells x 4 watts) - more than adequate power for a relatively small system. However, no power system (including solar power systems) can operate at 100% efficiency. Every system component produces some heat, which is wasted power. The Solar Wizard operates at 85% to 90% efficiency - most of the 10% to 15% power loss occurs in the form of heat dissipated by the inverter. So, for all practical purposes, your Solar Wizard system with 4 watt cells can be expected to provide anywhere from 122 to 130 watts of useable home power. Locating Solar Cells The first thing to do before building your Solar Wizard is to buy the necessary solar cells. The physical dimensions of your cell module or array will be dictated by the dimensions of the individual cells. Locating the best sources for solar cells will be time well spent since prices can vary wildly. Lots of bargains are out there if you're patient and willing to do your research. So, do some shopping around - you'll be amazed at what's out there since solar power is such an "in demand" technology. In general, I've found one of the best solar cell sources to be eBay - the selections and bargains there are incredible, especially if you're willing to accept cells that are less than perfect. Obviously you wouldn't want to buy damaged cells, but cells with minor flaws such as small scratches and chips work just fine, and they can be very economical. You can even find kits for repairing cell scratches to restore less-than- perfect cells to like-new condition. Often you can save lots of money by buying low capacity cells, which are more likely to be offered at bargains prices, and then connect them in parallel to obtain the desired power. Let's say, for example, that you locate 2-watt cells at bargain prices. A 2-watt string of 36 cells will generate around 61-watts to 65- watts of useable power. Since this power level is a bit on the low side, you could connect another 2-watt string of 36 cells in parallel to double the power (122-watts to 130-watts). An example of two 36 cell strings connected in parallel is shown in the following Figure 5. Actually there's no real limit, other than your time and budget restrictions, to the power generating capacity of your Solar Wizard system. Just by connecting additional 36-cell strings in parallel, you can customize it to match your exact power needs. You can even add 36-cell power strings with different power levels in parallel (for example, 36-cell, 4-watt cells in parallel with 36-cell, 3-watt cells). The Solar Wizard is designed to be the ultimate in simplicity and economy! CAUTION: When adding additional 36-cell strings in parallel, be sure all cells in each string are of equal wattage, and number exactly 36 cells, as shown in the following Figure 5. Failure to abide by this simple rule will cause system failures and malfunctions, and could permanently damage your Solar Wizard. Solar Cells - 36 Cell “String” Figure 5 Solar cells are sometimes offered in "sandwiched" layers secured with melted wax - the idea being to help protect them against shipping and handling damage due to their fragile nature. Some of the best cell bargains to be found are wax protected, but removing the wax can be a frustrating experience. I recommend purchasing a few more cells than actually needed since there's a good chance some cells will be damaged during wax removal. Note: The following procedure applies only to cells purchased in "sandwiched" layers secured with melted wax. CAUTION: Be sure to immerse the cells only in room-temperature water before heating. Immersing cold cells in hot water can destroy them because of thermal shock. Be careful not to heat the water to its boiling point. The violent action of boiling water can damage or destroy the cells. I've found the best way to remove the wax (perhaps the only practical way) is by melting it off with heated water. Fill a bucket or large pan with room-temperature water and fully immerse the cells. Turn on the heat, and heat the water as close as possible to, but just below, its boiling point. Allow the cells to "cook" until you feel certain that all the wax has melted. Carefully remove the cells and lay them on an absorbent cloth. Discard the water/wax mix, clean up the mess, and wait for the cells to cool to room-temperature. Repeat the cell "cooking" process to assure that as much wax as possible has been removed. WARNING: CARBON TETRACHLORIDE IS A TOXIC AND HAZARDOUS SOLVENT. BE SURE TO OBSERVE ALL SAFETY AND HANDLING PRECAUTIONS IN ITS USE AND USE ONLY IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA. To assure that all wax residue has been removed from the solar cells, I recommend carefully cleaning their entire surfaces with a soft clean cloth dampened with carbon tetrachloride (carbon tet). It's the only solvent I'm aware of that will dissolve wax, and is available at chemical supply stores. Be sure to wear protective rubber gloves since carbon tet can be absorbed directly into the bloodstream through the skin. Note: Since the Solar Wizard is custom-built according to your desired power output, its components must be carefully chosen to match that power capacity. After determining the power output desired from your Solar Wizard, and purchasing the needed solar cells, you will then be in a good position to choose the correct components and to actually start construction.. Note: The Solar Wizard system Pictorial is presented here. To do the best job of obtaining high quality components, and at the most economical prices, you should fully understand system operation. The following series of block diagrams and descriptions are designed to "lead you by the hand" - to guarantee your success and assure the best possible performance from your Solar Wizard. Actual construction starts in the “Building Your Solar Wizard” section. The Block Diagrams To obtain peak performance and efficiency from your Solar Wizard, you should familiarize yourself with its basic operating characteristics - all of which are easy to understand. The following block diagrams and descriptions are presented just for that purpose - don't overlook them. All solar electric power systems operate according to the same basic principals regardless of their size or complexity, and the Solar Wizard is no exception. Once you learn how the Solar Wizard functions you will be able to make wise decisions when it comes time to choose the best system components at the most economical prices. In short, the more you know about the Solar Wizard, the more time and money you will be able to save while building it - not to mention the satisfaction you'll gain from a perfectly operating Solar Wizard! Most Basic Block Diagram Block diagrams simplify the learning process by presenting a visual image of a system in its most basic form. Referring to Figure 2, the following Figure 6 is its equivalent presentation as a simple Block Diagram - a basic, yet complete, solar system. The system power source is a single Solar Cell that generates only 1/2-Volt Direct Current (1/2-VDC), and is connected to a Load, in this case a very low voltage Flashlight Bulb. Basic System Block Diagram Figure 6 As long as sunlight is being absorbed by the solar cell, the bulb will remain lighted. The Load could be any low-voltage electrical device, such as a miniature motor or electronic calculator. Such a simple system has little practical use, other than to demonstrate the electric generating property of a solar cell. Practical System Block Diagram By going a step beyond the most basic system, we arrive at a practical system powered by a Solar Module or Array, as depicted in the following Figure 7 - which is the power source of the Solar Wizard. A Solar Module consists of 36 solar cells (1/2-VDC each) connected in series to generate 18-VDC. If we desire higher output power (greater wattage), we can keep adding any number of Solar Modules (connected in parallel) to create our Solar Wizard Array. Practical System Block Diagram Figure 7 Many appliances are specifically designed to operate directly from low-voltage DC systems, mainly because of the growing popularity of Recreational Vehicles (RV's), and remotely located homes and cabins not connected to a commercial power grid. But, they are all specialized appliances and tools and, as such, can be quite expensive. The most obvious drawback to such a system is that it's only useful while the sun is shining. Adding a Storage Battery We can dramatically increase the flexibility and usefulness of our Solar Wizard simply by adding a Storage Battery, as depicted in the following Block Diagram of Figure 8. Now, in addition to the Solar Module or Array powering DC Loads, the battery will be directly charged during hours of sunshine, allowing it to supply 12-VDC power after the sun goes down. Such a system is totally functional and practical, and is the least expensive system to build. Block Diagram - adding a Storage Battery Figure 8 The only additional component needed is a Blocking Diode, a very inexpensive (less than $1) electronic device installed between the Solar Module or Array and the Storage Battery. The diode allows electricity to flow in only one direction (toward the battery), to prevent the battery from being slowly discharged by the solar cells during darkness. Most electronic supply stores stock blocking diodes. But, some of the best deals are through eBay You may have to buy the diodes in lots of 5-10 at eBay to get the best price, but if you're building a solar array you may need a diode for each module. I recommend the Schottky brand diode - it's recognized as an industry standard. For best reliability, be sure to select diodes rated for at least twice the current capacity of each module. This allows a generous safety margin (for example, a 4- amp module should use a diode rated for at least 8-amps). One of the most expensive, if not the most expensive, component of any solar electric system is the Storage Battery - and not just any old battery will do. You can't cut corners here, you must use a "deep- cycle" battery. Regular batteries such as those used in cars are "shallow-cycle." They're designed to provide lots of power for a short period of time, such as when the starter is cranking the engine. But, your Solar Wizard is an entirely different animal. It requires a "deep- cycle" battery that provides moderate power over the long-haul, and can be "deeply" and continually charged and discharged without damage or shortened life. They are used in many applications such as electric vehicles, wheelchairs, golf carts, forklifts, etc. One of the best sources I've found for "deep-cycle" batteries is: At Battery Company, Inc. They sell hundreds of different batteries, each designed for a particular application. If they don't have the battery you're looking for, nobody does. If you have access to the Internet, check out their website at: www.atbatt.com. In their website search windows choose "Electric Vehicle - Deep Cycle - 12V" - you'll be amazed at the selections. You can get a good education about batteries in general just from that site alone. You can also call or write for a copy of their catalog at: At Battery Company, Inc., 28918 Hancock Pkwy, Valencia, CA 91355 - - Sales & Customer Service; (877)528-2288 A typical solar system "deep-cycle" battery (100 to 200 amp-hour capacity) is very heavy, weighing about 75 to 150 pounds. So, shipping cost alone can be significant. You might consider buying locally from WalMart, Sam's Club, or Costco. It's unlikely that their employees will be able to offer you any meaningful advice, so be sure to choose a high-quality "deep-cycle" battery for your Solar Wizard. You can also search on eBay, you may just get lucky there. You may even be able to locate used "deep- cycle" batteries at bargain prices by doing some shopping around, but I don't recommend it. You never know what you're getting into with used batteries since they all look the same on the outside. The only way to determine the condition and capacity of a used battery is to run a performance test by placing the battery under load while tracking its discharge rate. Needless to say, this can get expensive. Even then you can't be 100% certain that the battery doesn't have internal damage that will show up later. My best advice is, avoid used batteries. Maintenance is a factor often overlooked when it comes to choosing the right batteries. All batteries contain an electrolyte, usually a mixture of water and sulphuric acid, or its equivalent. They also come in two varieties, "sealed" or "flooded." A flooded battery has caps that must be removed to periodically check the fluid (electrolyte) level since the water component of the fluid slowly, but continually, evaporates.. If fluid level is low, distilled water must be added to bring the fluid back to the recommended level. It may seem like a small point, but it's awfully easy to overlook this "minor" maintenance factor since solar systems will keep running for years at a time with little or no attention given to maintenance. If the fluid level of a flooded battery drops below the level of the battery plates, the battery may be permanently damaged, or destroyed. Safety is another factor to consider since flooded batteries give off hydrogen gas (which is explosive at concentrated levels) while charging. All battery installations should be vented and enclosed to prevent accumulation of hydrogen gas and accidental shorting. Sealed batteries contain chemically treated "mats" to absorb the hydrogen gas being produced while charging. Since they are sealed there is no electrolyte evaporation, thus no need for maintenance. Their downside is that they are more expensive than flooded batteries. Batteries are generally priced in line with their capacity - that is, according to their amp-hour ratings. A 200 amp-hour battery will usually cost about twice the price of a 100 amp-hour battery. There will be exceptions of course, so it usually pays to compare prices. If you're initially building a relatively small capacity Solar Wizard, 120- watts for example, I would recommend using a 100 to 200-amp hour storage battery. If you decide to increase system size later, you can always connect more batteries in parallel to boost storage capacity. Adding a Charge Controller A Charge Controller, as its name implies, controls the flow of charging current from the solar cells into the Storage Battery. If charging current is too high the storage battery will be overcharged, and may overheat, possibly causing the electrolyte to boil out. With a sealed storage battery, its case may even rupture since excessive hydrogen gas cannot be absorbed quickly enough by its internal chemical mat. At any rate, overcharging is a very bad thing and will quickly damage or destroy your storage battery. Charge controllers, as depicted in the Block Diagram of the following Figure 9, are required devices except for very low capacity solar systems. Block Diagram - adding a Charge Controller Figure 9 As a rule of thumb, a charge controller is needed in any system generating more than 5-watts of power for every 100 amp-hours of storage battery capacity. To determine if a charge controller is needed, simply divide storage battery capacity (amp-hours) by system power (watts). If the result is a number less than 20, a charge controller is needed. For example: If your Solar Wizard has a 100 amp-hour storage battery and generates 150-watts of power, dividing 100 by 150 yields the number .67 - so, a charge controller is required. As you can see, if your Solar Wizard generates 150-watts of power, you would need batteries with a total capacity of at least 3,000 amp-hours (150 x 20) to eliminate the need for a charge controller. That many batteries would fill a small room, not to mention being terribly expensive! In short, your Solar Wizard must be equipped with a Charge Controller. Most charge controllers contain circuitry, or internal blocking diodes, to prevent current being drained from the storage battery by the solar cells during the hours of darkness. Be sure to double-check your charge controller, and if such is the case there will be no need for connecting blocking diode(s) into wires exiting the solar cells. Solar charge controllers are rated according to storage battery voltage and the level of charging current (amps) they must control. Thus, the Solar Wizard requires a 12-VDC charge controller. In general, you should use a charge controller with current capacity of at least 1-½ times the current output from the solar cells. For example, if your Solar Wizard generates 8 amps, you should install a 12-VDC charge controller rated for at least 12-amps. I recommend at least doubling current capacity for the sake of added efficiency and reliability, so I would go with at least a 16-amp charge controller. Since charge controllers are relatively inexpensive, and you may want to eventually expand your system, you might consider a much larger charge controller, perhaps in the 50-amp to 75-amp range. Charge controllers are available with all kinds of optional features, at higher prices of course. Top-of-the- line charge controllers are equipped with special electronic circuits to sense the exact charge level of the storage battery. With a highly discharged battery, they automatically adjust output current to a high charge rate that continually tapers off as the battery gets closer to being fully charged. After the battery becomes fully charged, the controller shuts down altogether. This feature prolongs battery life since it's the ideal way in which to charge any battery. Other optional features incorporated into some charge controllers that you may wish to consider are: - A built-in battery charger that operates from household 115-VAC power for quickly charging a discharged battery. - Various meters to monitor system functions such as voltmeters, ammeters, and wattmeters. - Electronically altered charging to compensate for battery temperature changes, thus assuring ideal charge rates. - Terminal blocks to simplify interconnection of system wiring. There are many good sources available for purchasing high-quality charge controllers. I've found one that not only offers exceptional service and selections, but also has a very informative and educational website which you can visit at: store.solar-electric.com/ Here's pertinent information for contacting them directly, or requesting a catalog Northern Arizona Wind and Sun, 4091 E Huntington Dr Ste B,, Flagstaff, AZ 86004 Phone: (928)526-8017 - - Toll Free: (888)383-0195 Adding an Inverter Adding an Inverter to your Solar Wizard, as depicted in the Block Diagram of the following Figure 10, converts it into a totally functional and flexible home solar electric power system. Block Diagram - adding an Inverter Figure 10 An inverter changes 12-VDC power from the storage battery into 115-VAC power to run household appliances. As is the case with most electrical devices, inverters are designed and rated according to the power requirements demanded of them, and vary greatly in that respect. And, as you might expect, the greater their power handling capacity, the more costly they are likely to be. Very low power inverters that can handle but 100-watts or less are available at very low cost, but are much too small for practical use in solar electric systems. On the other hand, units capable of providing 10,000 watts or more are also out there - designed primarily for commercial use. Most home solar electric systems require inverters within the 2,000-watt to 6,000-watt range. Even if your Solar Wizard generates less than 200-watts, I recommend using an inverter rated for at least 2,000- watts. Inverters with high power capability tend to be robust in design, and are usually the most reliable. Large inverters also allow greater flexibility for future system expansion. Electricity distributed by commercial power companies is supplied as an alternating current in the form of a smoothly oscillating electrical wave termed a "sine" wave, and home appliances are designed to accept power in that form. For most appliances to accept power from inverters, the power must be supplied in the same form as commercially generated electricity, or in a nearly identical form. Two unique types of inverters are used with solar electric systems, and each provides an alternating wave form as either a "modified sine wave" or a "pure sine wave." The two types of inverters are: Modified Sine Wave Inverter - As its name implies, a modified sine wave inverter produces an alternating wave form somewhat modified as compared to the waveform of commercially generated electricity. High-quality modified sine wave inverters can be used to power practically all home appliances and devices. There are exceptions, of course, as will be explained later. However, the usefulness and efficiency of a modified sine wave inverter depends upon the degree to which its sine wave has been modified. Some low-cost inverters, because they are inexpensive to manufacture, generate wave forms that can more accurately be described as "square waves." Such inverters are generally useless, and can even damage some sensitive appliances, especially anything using an electric motor. Just be aware that some cheap modified sine wave inverters are on the market. Don't risk using them - deal only with reputable companies! Pure Sine Wave Inverter - A high-quality pure sine wave inverter produces a nearly perfect and "smooth" sine wave. In fact, most top-of-the-line pure sine wave inverters produce waves so "pure" that they are of even higher quality than the waves produced by most commercial power grids. Needless to say, such inverters can be used to power any home appliance or device. Their only downside is cost since they are relatively expensive. Which type inverter is best? I recommend using a high-quality modified sine wave inverter since most appliances and devices will work just fine with one. But some appliances, especially those with sensitive electronic controls, may tend to malfunction, or even refuse to work at all. Unfortunately, because we live in the "age of electronics," we're being presented with growing numbers of such appliances. All "highly-electronic" devices such as computers, printers, clocks, etc., tend to be very sensitive to the quality of their power sources. A good example is a television set, which may sound fine, but the screen image is wavy or distorted. The only solution for powering "problem" appliances and devices is to use a pure sine wave inverter. You might even consider using both types, a pure sine wave inverter to power your "problems" and a modified sine wave inverter to power everything else. Inverters are available with many extra features and options. As with charge controllers, expect to pay extra for any extras. Here are a few of the more interesting options: - Automatic "ON-OFF" to conserve power and extend inverter life by turning the inverter off when all appliances are turned off. - A built-in battery charger that operates from household 115-VAC power for quickly charging a discharged battery. - Various meters to monitor system functions such as voltmeters, ammeters, and wattmeters. - Terminal blocks to simplify interconnection of system wiring. If you have access to the Internet, an interesting website for learning more about inverters (and many other solar electric things) is: www.freesunpower.com. Here's an excellent source for inverters of every description: The Inverter Store, Inc., 9736 S Virginia St Ste A, Reno, NV 89521 Phone: (888)417-8673 Call or write them for a copy of their catalog. You can also check out their website at: www.theinverterstore.com Building Your Solar Wizard Building your Solar Wizard will be an enjoyable experience when you adhere to the following step-by-step procedures. Each step has been carefully thought out so as to eliminate the possibility of mistakes making your project fun, easy, and educational. Craftsmanship! Writing this publication has been a labor of love. But just when I thought I had finally put the "finishing touches" to it, I decided to go back and add this paragraph. Not because it's anything particularly astounding, but simply to emphasize the importance of CRAFTSMANSHIP. In short, your Solar Wizard will only be as good as you make it! Carefully built, it will give you many years of trouble-free service (it's not unusual for solar electric systems to still be cranking away after loyally operating for 30+ years). So, please pay attention to even the "small" details - they are the things that will make your Solar Wizard reliably "crank away" for years to come. JUST DO YOUR BEST TO MAKE YOUR SOLAR WIZARD SOMETHING TO BE PROUD OF! Testing Solar Cells Note: Solar cells are fragile things No matter how carefully you handle them, mistakes are likely to happen and you may damage or destroy a few along the way. Some may have even been damaged in shipment. It always pays to buy extra cells in advance just to cover yourself. Even if you end up with a few extra cells, you can always use them later if you decide to upgrade your Solar Wizard by adding additional modules (thus creating an array).