OBP Manual V1.1b - Terri

Please enable JavaScript to view the full PDF

The "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison Construction and Usage May 2023 This manual describes the construction and usage of the "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison device. Revision/Update Information: V1.1b / This is a revised manual. Major changes from the V1.0 manual are shown with a vertical bar in the margin. https://www.evilobp.fun https://www.reddit.com/r/OneBarPrison May 6, 2023 This document and included images are licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0) license. Contact the author via one of the methods listed in Appendix D if you would like to discuss alternate licensing and usage rights. The information in this document is prepared for entertainment purposes only. It should not be construed as any representation by the author as to the safety or reliability of the described device. The author expressly disclaims any implied warranties of merchantability or fitness for any particular purpose. DANGER: Improper usage can result in severe injury or death. Never use without another trained person present at all times. Use common sense. TRADEMARKS USED IN THIS MANUAL Any trademarks mentioned in this manual are acknowledged to be the property of the trademark owners and are used solely for identification purposes. Contents PREFACE viii CHAPTER 1 INTRODUCTION 1–1 CHAPTER 2 NECESSARY AND OPTIONAL PARTS 2–1 CHAPTER 3 REQUIRED TOOLS 3–1 CHAPTER 4 PLYWOOD CUT DIAGRAM 4–1 CHAPTER 5 ASSEMBLING THE BASES 5–1 5.1 ASSEMBLING THE BASE FOR THE SLIDING PLATFORMS 5–1 5.2 ASSEMBLING THE OPTIONAL NON-SLIDING BASE 5–3 CHAPTER 6 ASSEMBLING THE SLIDING PLATFORMS 6–1 CHAPTER 7 BUILDING THE POLE REINFORCEMENT PLATE 7–1 CHAPTER 8 DRILLING THE BASE(S) FOR THE REINFORCEMENT PLATE 8–1 iii Contents CHAPTER 9 PREPARING THE WOOD CUBES 9–1 CHAPTER 10 STAINING AND FINISHING THE WOOD (OPTIONAL) 10–1 CHAPTER 11 MODIFYING AND ASSEMBLING THE 3XLR CONNECTOR AND POLE ADAPTER 11–1 11.1 PREPARING THE POLE ADAPTER 11–1 11.2 MODIFYING THE 3XLR CONNECTOR 11–2 11.3 BONDING THE 3XLR CONNECTOR TO THE POLE ADAPTER 11–4 CHAPTER 12 MODIFYING AND ASSEMBLING THE POLE 12–1 12.1 PREPARING THE POLE TUBES 12–1 12.2 CUTTING THE POLE TUBES TO THE CORRECT LENGTHS 12–3 12.3 DRILLING THE POLE TUBES AND ADAPTER 12–6 12.3.1 Constructing the wood template 12–6 12.3.2 Using the template to drill the upper tube and adapter 12–9 12.4 REATTACHING THE THREADED BASE PLUG TO THE POLE 12–14 CHAPTER 13 BONDING THE POLE TO THE CONNECTOR PLATE (OPTIONAL) 13–1 CHAPTER 14 REASSEMBLING THE VARIOUS COMPONENTS 14–1 iv Contents CHAPTER 15 INSTALLING THE SPRING (OPTIONAL) 15–1 CHAPTER 16 TESTING 16–1 16.1 TESTING THE SLIDING PLATFORMS 16–1 16.2 TESTING THE REINFORCEMENT PLATE 16–3 16.3 TESTING THE TELESCOPING POLE 16–3 16.4 TESTING THE 3XLR ATTACHMENT AND DILDO 16–4 CHAPTER 17 USER TRAINING AND OBP USAGE 17–1 17.1 PRACTICING ON THE NON-SLIDING BASE 17–3 17.2 BECOMING FAMILIAR WITH THE SLIDING PLATFORMS 17–4 17.3 PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER 17–5 17.4 PRACTICE TIME IS OVER 17–6 CHAPTER 18 ADVANCED TOPICS 18–1 APPENDIX A SUMMARY OF CHANGES A–1 APPENDIX B BORING TECHNICAL STUFF ABOUT MATERIAL STRENGTH, ETC. B–1 v Contents APPENDIX C ACKNOWLEDGMENTS AND SHOUT-OUTS C–1 APPENDIX D Q&A WITH THE DESIGNER D–1 FIGURES 1–1 Completed "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison 1–1 1–2 Some of the commercially available dildos for the device 1–2 4–1 Plywood cut diagram 4–1 5–1 Decorative trim installation 5–2 5–2 Plinth attachment 5–3 5–3 Completed non-sliding base 5–4 6–1 Hole locations in platform 6–1 6–2 Drawing a bolt head into the wood 6–2 6–3 Two trolleys attached to the platform 6–3 6–4 Testing the fit on the floor 6–4 6–5 Platform on base - front view 6–6 6–6 Platform on base - top view 6–7 6–7 Completed platforms on base 6–7 7–1 Reinforcement plate with wood glue and clamps 7–2 7–2 Marked lines and portable drill press on reinforcement plate 7–3 7–3 Routed reinforcement plate and connector plate 7–4 7–4 Reinforcement plate showing connector plate depth 7–5 7–5 Reinforcement plate showing drill marks and tape 7–6 7–6 Reinforcement plate bottom and top view with hardware 7–7 7–7 Completed reinforcement plate with pole 7–8 8–1 Marking the center of the non-sliding base 8–1 8–2 Non-sliding base with holes drilled, showing reinforcement plate 8–3 9–1 Cubes marked and drilled with pilot holes 9–1 10–1 Sliding platform after staining 10–2 10–2 Sliding platform after staining and finishing 10–2 10–3 Base with warning label 10–3 11–1 Plug and pole adapter 11–1 11–2 Removing the boot from the 3XLR connector 11–2 11–3 3XLR top part separated from connector body 11–2 11–4 Before and after connector release button modification 11–3 11–5 3XLR connector showing release button modification 11–4 11–6 3XLR connector with tape on pole adapter 11–5 11–7 3XLR connector with tape, before and after notches 11–6 11–8 Tape on pole adapter 11–7 11–9 Epoxy on pole adapter and 3XLR connector 11–8 11–10 Epoxy on assembly of pole adapter and 3XLR connector 11–9 11–11 Completed epoxy procedure 11–9 vi Contents 12–1 Measuring and cutting the end of the lower tube 12–2 12–2 Upper tube insert 12–2 12–3 White plastic sleeve marked 12–3 12–4 White plastic sleeve cut 12–3 12–5 Wood template showing center points and lines 12–6 12–6 Drilling the 38mm hole 12–7 12–7 Marking 38mm hole edge for drilling 12–7 12–8 Preparing the plywood and drilling the 2 x 6 12–8 12–9 Finishing the 3/16" hole in the template 12–9 12–10 Marking the tube and adapter for drilling 12–10 12–11 Bolt through tube with adapter and view through tube 12–11 12–12 Drilling second set of holes in tube 12–12 12–13 Two heights for the 3XLR pole adapter 12–13 12–14 Three methods of attaching the 3XLR pole adapter 12–14 12–15 Cutting the aluminum tube off the base plug 12–15 12–16 Aluminum tube split off the base plug 12–15 12–17 Cleaned and prepared threaded base plug 12–16 12–18 Preparing the lower tube with epoxy 12–17 12–19 Threaded base plug fully inserted into lower pole 12–18 12–20 Borescope view of the completed assembly 12–19 14–1 Detail showing centering of middle cube 14–1 14–2 Finished sliding platform with hardware 14–2 14–3 Detail view of trolley assembly 14–2 14–4 "V" notch in end cap 14–3 14–5 Aligning cubes with edges of base 14–4 14–6 Fully tightened channel section bolt, washer, and nut 14–4 14–7 Front, top and rear views of installed end cap 14–5 14–8 Wing nuts and washers on underside of base 14–6 14–9 Non-skid mats on sliding platforms 14–7 14–10 Non-skid mats in factory packaging and cut / rolled 14–7 15–1 Preparation of dowel and attachment of spring 15–2 15–2 Dowel with both springs attached 15–2 15–3 Spring assembly installation in pole 15–3 15–4 Force gauge showing pole effort without spring 15–4 16–1 Clearance between various components with clevis pins installed 16–2 16–2 Pole control ring 16–4 16–3 Release pin location on 3XLR connector 16–5 17–1 The view when about to get onto the "Ultimate Evil" OBP 17–2 17–2 Latex tubing on clevis pins for noise dampening 17–6 vii Preface This manual explains the construction and usage of the "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison. Refer to Chapter 1 for general information about One Bar Prisons and what makes this design the "Ultimate Evil" version. Intended Audience This manual is intended for fellow kinksters. It describes the construction and usage of the "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison. Important Warning DANGER: Do NOT do stuff that can get you or anyone else injured or killed. That is always good advice, regardless of whether you’re driving to work, skydiving, or using a One Bar Prison. Useful websites The following websites should be helpful to One Bar Prison fans: • https://www.evilobp.fun - the only website dedicated to the "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison • https://www.reddit.com/r/OneBarPrison - main One Bar Prison discussion forum • https://www.reddit.com/r/BdsmDIY - general discussion of DIY BSDM projects • https://discord.gg/MmpT9xE - KinkyMakers Discord, particularly the #bondage-gear channel The following are websites for some suppliers mentioned in the parts list, in alphabetical order: • https://www.adorama.com - connector plate (pole base) • https://www.amazon.com - 3XLR connectors, non-skid mats • https://www.compressionspring.com - spring for optional lift assist • https://www.homedepot.com - general construction materials • https://www.kellyhayes.com - Unistrut components • https://www.latex-tubing.com - latex tubing (noise reduction) • https://www.lowes.com - general construction materials • https://www.sweetwater.com - telescoping pole Notes: This list is, unfortunately, US-centric. I welcome information about alternate suppliers, particularly international ones, and this manual will be updated with that info in the future. viii Preface While it should be obvious, none of the above companies have any knowledge of this project and certainly do not endorse it in any manner at all. Conventions In this document, the following conventions will be used: • Captive - the person who the One Bar Prison is restraining. Some materials refer to this as the "victim" or by other terms. I prefer the term "captive" as "victim" implies at least some unwillingness or lack of consent. • Captor - one or more people responsible for the operation of the One Bar Prison and ensuring the safety of the captive at all times. • One Bar Prison (OBP) - the actual device, including any accessories. • Device - in this document, refers speciﬁcally to the "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison. • Note calls your attention to particular points of construction or usage where more than the expected level of attention to instructions is required. • Caution indicates that failing to follow a procedure may cause damage to the OBP or its components. • WARNING indicates that particular care must be taken to prevent personal injury. • DANGER indicates that particular care needs to be taken to prevent severe personal injury or death. ix 1 Introduction Figure 1–1 Completed "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison This chapter provides an overview of the "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison. Note: It is essential to read this entire manual from beginning to end, possibly several times, before ordering any parts or beginning the construction process. You probably already know what a One Bar Prison is, but in brief, it is a platform with an adjustable pole with some type of dildo mounted to the top. The pole and dildo are raised and inserted into the vagina and or anus of the captive. When the captive is wearing high heels or is otherwise unable to lift their body off the dildo, they are utterly unable to escape without the aid of another person. Almost all of these designs have been the same thing - a simple stand with a telescoping pole that the captor can manually adjust to control the amount of the dildo that is penetrating the captive’s oriﬁce(s). 1–1 Introduction I decided I could bring several innovations to the basic OBP design. I wanted my OBP design to be something that others could replicate without needing to have expensive or unusual tools available to them and where as many of the parts as possible were readily obtainable, either from nearby "big box" lumber/hardware stores or online suppliers. In some cases, this has led to the use of somewhat expensive parts. A beneﬁt of this is that my design is vastly overbuilt regarding necessary strength. The main design advancements that I have made over the normal OBP are: • A telescoping pole that can be raised by the captive or captor with only a few ﬁngers but which absolutely cannot be lowered without the captor turning the control ring to the "Lower" position. This ring is out of reach of the captive. • Adjustable footrests that can be ﬁxed in position or allowed to slide along a track, letting the captive do a "split" of varying amounts. If the captive moves their feet further apart, their body will lower itself onto the dildo. Also, it is much harder for the captive to remain motionless when they must constantly keep their legs a speciﬁc distance apart. • An optional spring inside the telescoping pole causes the pole to lift at the slightest provocation. If the captive attempts to climb off the pole, the simple movement of the dildo on the pole will cause the pole to extend automatically until further resistance is met. This eliminates the need for the captive to wear high heels, as there is no way to lift off the pole anyway. • Quick-disconnect interchangeable dildos using the standard 3XLR connector found on many "fucking machine" devices. This allows the captive to select an appropriate dildo based on length, girth, and ﬁrmness. It also improves hygiene as different captives can select an unused (or previously cleaned) dildo of the desired size and rigidity for their time on the One Bar Prison. Here are a few of the commercially available dildos that ﬁt the device: Figure 1–2 Some of the commercially available dildos for the device 1–2 Introduction The hardware design is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution- NonCommercial-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-NC-SA 4.0) license. Contact the author via one of the methods listed in Appendix D if you would like to discuss alternate licensing and usage rights. 1–3 2 Necessary and optional parts To build your own "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison, you will need the following: • This manual • 3/4" x 4’ x 8’ sanded birch plywood [Home Depot 454559 / Lowe’s 2592978] qty. 1 (cut to order per Figure 4–1) • House of Fara P356P 7/8" x 3-1/2" x 6" pine plinth block [Home Depot 349941] qty. 4 (+ 4 more if also making the non-sliding base variant) • Weaber WW998 5/8" x 3/4" x 8’ trim moulding [Home Depot 552091] (for optional decorative trim) qty. 5 (+ 2 more if also making the non-sliding base variant) • 4" x 4" x 4" wood cubes [Amazon B08GP41Z8R] qty. 6 • Hillman 532604 18 x 1-1/4" wire brads box [Lowe’s 128126] (for optional decorative trim) qty. 1 • Hillman 42602 #8 x 1-1/4" deck screws box [Lowe’s 755738] qty. 1 • Unistrut P1000H3-10-PG ordered as 2 x 5-foot lengths [Kelly & Hayes] qty. 1 • Unistrut P2860-10VYB black plastic end cap [Kelly & Hayes] qty. 4 • Unistrut P2750-EG channel trolley [Expensive! Look on eBay, etc.] qty. 8 • Hillman 881081 1/2" x 2" clevis pin [Lowe’s 138657] Qty. 12 • Hillman 881099 .125" x 1-15/16" hitch pin clips [2-pack Lowe’s 138717] qty. 6 • Hillman 61926 1/4" x 1-1/4" zinc ﬁnish carriage bolt [Lowe’s 240015] qty. 8 • Hillman 880124 1/4" hardened lock washer [5-pack Lowe’s 135474] qty. 2 • Hillman 880137 1/4" hex nut [5-pack Lowe’s 135476] qty. 2 • Hillman 240030 1/4" x 2-1/2" zinc ﬁnish carriage bolt [Lowe’s 63334] qty. 8 • Hillman 290012 1/4" x 1" zinc ﬁnish fender washer [Lowe’s 68882] qty. 16 • Hillman 880155 1/4-20 zinc ﬁnish wing nut [4-pack Lowe’s 135587] qty. 2 • Hillman 240188 3/8" x 5-1/2" zinc ﬁnish carriage bolt [Lowe’s 55815] qty. 6 2–1 Necessary and optional parts • Hillman 290036 3/8" x 1-1/2" zinc ﬁnish fender washer [Lowe’s 68884] qty. 6 • Hillman 180153 3/8" zinc ﬁnish nylon lock nut [Lowe’s 63405] qty. 6 • Hillman 491393 10-24 x 2" zinc ﬁnish screw and nut [5-pack Lowe’s 57863] qty. 1 • Hillman 490669 10-24 zinc ﬁnish wing nut [3-pack Lowe’s 58093] qty. 1 (for optional security) • Hillman 490652 10-24 nickel steel acorn nut [4-pack Lowe’s 58113] qty. 1 (for optional security) • Hillman 490694 #10 split lock washer [48-pack Lowe’s 58135] qty. 1 (for optional security) • K&M 24116 M20 connector plate [Adorama KM24116] qty. 1 • Ultimate Support SP-90B speaker pole [Sweetwater Sound SP90B] qty. 1 • JB KwikWeld 8276 epoxy [2-pack Lowe’s 355110] qty. 1 • Loctite Threadlocker 222 (purple) [Amazon B0002KKTT0] qty. 1 (for optional security) • Wood stain [I used Minwax Jacobean 2750] (for optional decorative ﬁnish) • Floor ﬁnish [I used Minwax Ultimate Gloss 13101] (for optional decorative ﬁnish) • 3XLR "Switchcraft A3F" [Amazon B071X443RN] qty. 2 • 3XLR dildos (as desired) • Exercise step platforms, 6" to 8" tall, one pair (for practice on the non-sliding base) • 1-1/4" x 48" poplar dowel [Lowe’s 19414] qty. 1 (for optional spring assist) • 20.5" x 1.1" x 0.340lbs/in compression spring [Compression Spring PC055-1102-35700-MW-20594-C-N-IN] qty. 2 (for optional spring assist) • "Classic Grip Shelf Liner" mat [Amazon B01LW9HK2L or another color] (for optional non-skid platform mats) qty. 1 • 5/8" ID x 1/8" thick latex tubing [Latex-Tubing #2008] qty. 2 feet (for optional noise reduction) Note: Brands and model/part numbers are those that I used. Except for the Unistrut components, the Ultimate Support pole, the K&M connector plate, and the Switchcraft 3XLR connector, you should feel free to substitute locally available parts. 2–2 3 Required tools You will need the following tools and supplies for construction: • Sawhorses • 5-gallon bucket or similar • Miter box and saw (for optional decorative trim) • Dremel tool (or equivalent) and cut-off bits • Plunge router and bits • Table saw (if not having wood store-cut) • Yellow wood glue • Small wood clamps qty. 4 • Plumbing tubing cutter capable of handling at least 1-3/4" diameter (for pole) • Drill (a drill press is strongly recommended) • 3/16" extra-long (6") drill bit • 17/64" drill bit • 25/64" drill bit • 7/16" extra-long (8") drill bit • 1-1/2" (38mm) hole saw with pilot bit (often sold in a set w/ 44mm and others) • 1-3/4" (44mm) hole saw with pilot bit (often sold in a set w/ 38mm and others) • 7/16" open end wrench • 9/16" open end wrench • Slip joint pliers • Combination square • Trigger pull force gauge (for calibrating optional spring assist) • Tack hammer (for optional decorative trim) • Tape measure • Protective eyewear • Pencil • Permanent marker, such as a "Sharpie" • 120-grit sandpaper • Blue painter’s tape 3–1 Required tools • Scissors or diagonal cutters • Small ﬂat head screwdriver • Large ﬂat head screwdriver • Plumber’s torch (optional) • Wire brush (optional) • Heavy-duty (5 lb.) rubber mallet • Borescope (optional) • Sharp razor blade • Acetone • Disposable plastic dinner knives • Scrap piece of 2 x 6 lumber approximately 1’ long • Pads, brushes, and rags (optional for applying the wood stain and ﬁnish) 3–2 4 Plywood cut diagram All the plywood pieces needed are cut from a single sheet of 4’ x 8’ plywood. Refer to the cut diagram below for the exact measurements. The wood is 3/4" (18mm) birch plywood with a smooth sanded ﬁnish. This type of plywood also has additional layers for strength. Notes: It is assumed that you will have the home center or lumberyard cut the wood for you. Make sure their saw is sharp and their measurements accurate, or you may end up with expensive but useless pieces of wood. You can cut the plywood yourself if you have a table saw, but a 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood is often difﬁcult to transport from the home center to your location. Most sanded plywood has a good side and a "not so good" side. The not so good side may have knot holes that were ﬁlled with wood ﬁller, and the surface may not have been sanded as smoothly as the good side. Whenever you work with one of the cut pieces of plywood, ensure that the good side ends up on the top surface of each completed piece. Figure 4–1 Plywood cut diagram You will also need 2 square pieces of 3/4" plywood, 10" x 10" for the pole reinforcement plate. These will be cut from the extra 30" x 24" piece labeled "Wood for Later Cuts" later on in Chapter 7. 4–1 Plywood cut diagram Notes: The wood-cutting saws at home centers usually have trouble cutting to a major dimension shorter than around 2’, so you will likely have to cut the reinforcement plate pieces yourself. The unlabeled 6" x 12" piece will be used in Section 12.3.1 - do not discard it. 4–2 5 Assembling the bases This chapter also introduces the non-sliding base as an option. It will be needed to perform additional assembly, testing, and usage steps as described later in this manual. You probably already have most of the pieces, so you may as well go ahead and build it. Several later parts of this manual assume that you have it available. Note: Many of these procedures should be performed with the project part(s) on sawhorses. These will not be noted individually, as it should be apparent when the sawhorses are needed. 5.1 Assembling the base for the sliding platforms The base assembly is relatively simple. If you install the optional decorative trim, use the miter box and saw to cut pieces of the WW998 trim to the appropriate lengths with 45-degree angle cuts and attach them to the base with the wire brads. Notes: Using a miter box is an acquired skill. Cut the pieces a bit longer than required and perform additional cuts to get them to the exact lengths needed. You may ﬁnd that pre-drilling holes in the trim for the wire brads will reduce the tendency of the trim to splinter when nailing the brads. 5–1 Assembling the bases Figure 5–1 Decorative trim installation Attach each of the four plinths to the base using six #8 x 1-1/4" deck screws in each plinth. Orient the unﬁnished ends of each plinth toward the center of the base. The decorative surface of the plinth is oriented to the ﬂoor (away from the base). If you have installed the optional decorative trim, align each plinth with the edges of the base and not the trim. The following picture should clarify this. 5–2 Assembling the bases Figure 5–2 Plinth attachment Note: As with the decorative trim above, pre-drilling holes in the plinths will reduce the chance of the plinths splitting when installing the screws. Caution: Make sure that the heads of all screws are driven below the face of the plinths as ﬂush or protruding screws will damage ﬂoors when moving the base. 5.2 Assembling the optional non-sliding base The sliding platforms are one of the main features of the "Ultimate Evil" One Bar Prison. However, this produces a large (5.5’ wide x 3’ deep) base that weighs approximately 80 pounds (before installing the pole) which is a bit much to move around to events, etc. One of the "leftover" pieces of wood is a much more manageable 2.5’ wide x 2’ deep and 15 pounds. It makes a handy base when there is no room for the full-size base. You still get most of the beneﬁts of the "Ultimate Evil" pole, just not the sliding platforms. Attach the decorative trim (if desired) and plinths as described above. 5–3 Assembling the bases Figure 5–3 Completed non-sliding base 5–4 6 Assembling the sliding platforms Assembly of the sliding platforms and attaching them to the base is somewhat more complex. If you are installing the optional decorative trim, do that now, following the instructions in Chapter 5. You will need to drill four holes in precise locations on each of the sliding platforms. Refer to the following picture for the location of each hole. With the platform positioned as shown in the picture, locate the center point between the top and bottom edges. The distance should be precisely 6" for a platform without the optional decorative trim and approximately 6.5" with the trim. Now measure 3-3/4" inches up and down from the center point and make a pencil mark 2" (without trim) or 2-1/2" (with trim) from the left and right edges of the platform. Conﬁrm these locations by measuring the distance between sets of marks. The spacing between the upper and lower marks should be EXACTLY 7-1/2". The distance between the left and right marks is less critical as long as they are consistently the same length on both platforms. Figure 6–1 Hole locations in platform Using a 17/64" drill bit, drill a hole at each location you marked on the platform. Note: Make sure your drill bit is sharp and drill the hole from the top face of the plywood to the bottom. This will put any wood chip- outs on the bottom side where they won’t be visible. 6–1 Assembling the sliding platforms Carriage bolts have smooth heads without slots for a screwdriver. Instead, a small square area under the head prevents the bolt from turning. As you tighten the fastener, that square area sinks into the wood. Pre-tightening the fasteners before installing the trolleys is an excellent idea. Place a 1/4" x 1-1/4" carriage bolt through each hole on the top side of the platform. Flip the platform over, making sure that the bolts don’t fall out, and install a 1/4" x 1" fender washer and 1/4" hex nut on each of the protruding bolts. Use a 7/16" open end wrench as shown in the following picture to draw each bolt head into the platform. Figure 6–2 Drawing a bolt head into the wood Cautions: Do not over-tighten the fasteners - you want to end up with the head of each carriage bolt ﬂush with the wood, not pulled into it. If you remove and reinstall the bolts for any reason, ensure that the square area under the head ﬁts back into the spot you made for it. You don’t want to damage the wood by creating a new set of depressions. Next, use the 7/16" open end wrench to remove the hex nuts from the bottom side of each bolt (leave the fender washers in place). Install a Unistrut P2750-EG channel trolley onto each protruding bolt, using the center hole in each trolley. Install a 1/4" lock washer and 1/4" hex nut onto each protruding bolt, as shown in the following picture. Use the 7/16" open end wrench to tighten the nuts. This will involve spinning the trolleys on the fender washers. Align the trolleys so they are in line with each other and not twisted. Note: The following picture shows the trolleys installed without the fender washers. The decision to use fender washers was made after taking this picture. 6–2 Assembling the sliding platforms Figure 6–3 Two trolleys attached to the platform Note: Getting the lock washers and nuts onto the bolt threads can be tedious. There isn’t much room to work in there, so patience is essential. Repeat this entire procedure to build the second platform. Place the two sections of Unistrut P1000H3-10-PG channel on the ﬂoor parallel and next to each other. Check to see if the holes on the two channel sections line up. If they do not, swap one of the sections end- for-end and see if you have better alignment. Once you have the best alignment, move the two sections to be approximately 2’ apart from each other. Take one of the platforms and insert a trolley into each channel section, adjusting the spacing between the channel sections as needed to line up with the two rows of trolleys on the platform. Continue by sliding the platform onto the channel sections until the second pair of trolleys is also in the channel. Slide the platform partway along the channel sections and repeat the process with the second platform. Note: When the seller cut the 10’ Unistrut channel into two 5’ sections, they may have slightly bent the cut end of the channel. If the trolley will not slide into the channel, install it from the other end of the channel. 6–3 Assembling the sliding platforms Figure 6–4 Testing the fit on the floor Slide the platforms back and forth, both one at a time and as a set. There should be no binding as they slide, and the channel sections should not shift on the ﬂoor while moving the platforms. Binding usually indicates that the trolleys are not in line with each other on the platform(s). Slide the platform(s) off the channel sections and see if one or more trolleys need to be rotated slightly. If the channel sections shift on the ﬂoor for some reason other than the trolleys binding, that means that the holes you drilled in the platforms do not match up with each other. Caution: Do NOT proceed past this point if you cannot resolve the binding or channel shifting issue(s). At this point, the worst-case scenario is that you will need to purchase one or two relatively inexpensive pieces of plywood to construct new platform(s). Proceeding without resolving the problem will cause you to mis-drill the wood base. Remove both sliding platforms from the channel sections and carefully place the two channel sections onto the base. Install a clevis pin in the next to last hole on one end of each channel section, with the head of the clevis pin toward the edge of the base. Insert a hitch pin clip in each clevis pin. Install the two sliding platforms onto the channel sections using the same procedure described previously. Continue by installing a clevis pin and hitch pin clip into the next to last hole on the other end of each channel section. Caution: Avoid scratching or otherwise damaging the plywood base when moving the channel sections. 6–4 Assembling the sliding platforms Note: The hitch pin clips may be very difﬁcult to install in the clevis pins, and a surprising amount of force may be required. These will become looser over time. Center the channel sections on the base, both left-to-right and front-to- back. Slide the platforms to ensure there is no binding or shifting of the channel sections. Using a 25/64" drill bit, drill holes in the base at the leftmost and rightmost holes in the front channel section ONLY. Make sure you position the drill bit in the center of each of the two holes. Install a 3/8" x 5-1/2" carriage bolt through the channel section and base. There is no need to install a nut or washer at this time. Note: 3/8" carriage bolts are used even though the holes in the channel sections are 1/2". This is to allow the square part under the head of the carriage bolt to clear the holes in the channel sections. Roll the sliding platforms to the left and right to ensure the rear channel section is positioned correctly. After checking the left-to-right centering of the rear channel section once more, drill holes in the base at the leftmost and rightmost holes in the rear channel section and install 3/8" x 5-1/2" carriage bolts the same way you did for the front. Carefully remove the hitch pin clips and clevis pins from the channel sections and reinstall them in the holes closest to the ends of each channel section. The clevis pin is inserted from the outer edge with the hitch pin clip on the side of the channel section facing the center of the base. Slide the two platforms toward the center of the base. Skip two holes and install four clevis pins and hitch pin clips in the channel sections, inserting the clevis pins from the inner face of the channel section and installing the hitch pin clips on the outer face of the channel section. Slide the two platforms apart until they are stopped by the clevis pins installed in the previous step. Leave ﬁve open holes and install another four clevis pins and hitch pin clips in the next hole toward the center, again with the hitch pin clips toward the edge of the base. The following pictures should clarify this if needed. Loosely install a plastic end cap on each of the four exposed ends of the channel sections. Rotate the hitch pin clips as needed to provide clearance. You may need to lift the ends of the channel sections off the base to slide the end caps into position. Note: The end caps are only installed to prevent possible injury from the sharp channel section ends while you are working on the base. They will be modiﬁed and installed permanently in a later procedure. Locate the channel section hole closest to the middle of each channel section and drill a 25/64" hole through the base, again taking care to center the drill hole in the channel section hole. Install a 3/8" x 5-1/2" carriage bolt through each hole. As before, there is no need to install a nut or washer at this time. 6–5 Assembling the sliding platforms Note: As there are an even number of holes in each channel section, it is not possible to perfectly center the third set of holes - you will drill the holes offset to either the left or the right. Figure 6–5 Platform on base - front view 6–6 Assembling the sliding platforms Figure 6–6 Platform on base - top view Figure 6–7 Completed platforms on base If you measured the 7-1/2" hole spacing correctly, there should be almost no play when trying to slide either platform with the clevis pins installed, as shown in the preceding pictures. 6–7 Assembling the sliding platforms Notes: Adjusting the travel of the sliding platforms is discussed in Chapter 16 and Chapter 17. The trolleys under the sliding platforms cannot roll over the carriage bolt heads holding the channel sections to the base without damaging the trolleys. The clevis pins and hitch pin clips at the ends of the channel sections serve as a more robust end stop. Remove the four end caps, twelve clevis pins, and their hitch pin clips from the channel sections. Remove the two sliding platforms and set them aside. Label the two channel sections using a permanent marker with "Left", "Right", "Front", and "Back" markings inside the "U" of the channel where they won’t be evident on the completed device. These can be abbreviated to L/R/F/B or any other system you ﬁnd convenient. This will help you reassemble things in the correct layout later on in Chapter 14. Remove the six 3/8" x 5-1/2" carriage bolts that hold the channel sections to the base. Finally, lift the channel sections off the base (taking care not to scratch the wood) and set them aside. 6–8 7 Building the pole reinforcement plate This chapter describes how to build the pole reinforcement plate. The plate serves two purposes. First, it provides additional support to prevent the pole from wobbling while the captive is on it. Second, it allows the pole to be detached from the base to easily store the completed OBP. Note: Assembling the reinforcement plate is one of the most tedious and annoying parts of constructing the OBP and requires tools you are not likely to own already. If you have a friend who does woodworking, this would be a great time to ask them for a favor. The plate is innocuous looking (although rather unusual), so you don’t have to get speciﬁc as to what it is used for. Cut two 10" x 10" pieces of plywood from the extra base piece left over from cutting the 4’ x 8’ sheet of plywood. Note: These pieces will be quite visible on the completed OBP, so do your best to make sure the pieces are precisely the same size as each other and all of the cuts are perfectly straight. A table saw is the best way to accomplish this if you have access to one. Locate the good side of each piece. With the good side down, put one of the pieces on the open end of a 5-gallon bucket. Use yellow wood glue to lay out a glue pattern, as shown in the following picture. Take the second piece of wood, good side up, and place it on top of the ﬁrst piece. After verifying they are aligned as well as possible, use four small wood clamps to clamp the two pieces of wood tightly together. The glue will squeeze out over time as the pressure spreads the glue across the surfaces of the wood. Use a piece of cardboard or similar to scrape off any glue that squeezes out. You may need to repeat this removal of excess glue several times. Note: If you plan on staining your OBP, the time you spend removing excess glue here will signiﬁcantly reduce the time spent sanding the edges of the reinforcement plate before staining. Leave the clamps on and allow at least 24 hours for the glue to dry completely. 7–1 Building the pole reinforcement plate Figure 7–1 Reinforcement plate with wood glue and clamps Select one surface of the glued reinforcement plate to be the bottom, and use the edge of your tape measure and a pencil to draw lines from each corner to the diagonally opposite corner. Also, draw lines from top to bottom and left to right at the midpoint of the reinforcement plate. Using the 44mm hole saw, drill a hole all the way through the reinforcement plate at the point in the center of the reinforcement plate where all of the lines meet. If you have a drill press, as shown in the following picture, use it to keep the hole perpendicular to the surface of the reinforcement plate. Caution: It is crucial to drill this and all subsequent holes as close to vertical as possible. Any tilt will be magniﬁed many times over as this hole controls the angle of the pole on the ﬁnished OBP. 7–2 Building the pole reinforcement plate Figure 7–2 Marked lines and portable drill press on reinforcement plate Using a plunge router, route out a circular area for the connector plate. Start by placing the connector plate in the exact center of the reinforcement plate and trace around the edge with your pencil. Everything inside the circle you draw will need to be routed out. WARNING: Wear protective eyewear whenever working with the plunge router. Next, set the depth of the plunge cut to the thickness of the connector plate and begin routing out the circle. You will be doing this freehand, and some excess routing will not be noticeable as this side of the reinforcement plate will be hidden on the completed OBP. Route along the inside edge of the circle ﬁrst, then continue by removing all of the material inside the circle. Note: Depending on the particular plunge router, you may obtain better results by removing less than the full depth in the ﬁrst pass and then removing the rest of the depth in the second pass. Unpack the Ultimate Support pole from its box. Set aside the bag of accessories and instruction manual for later use. Insert the threaded end of the pole through the 1-3/4" hole into the top side of the reinforcement plate. This should be a rather tight ﬁt, but you shouldn’t need to force it. Install the connector plate on the bottom side of the reinforcement plate by screwing it onto the end of the pole. If your router and hole saw work were accurate, you should be able to push the connector plate (and attached pole) into the area you removed with the router. The connector plate should be ﬂush with the bottom surface of the reinforcement plate or slightly depressed. If not, use the router to remove more depth or a larger area as needed. 7–3 Building the pole reinforcement plate Note: If the connector plate does not ﬁt ﬂush with or below the surface of the reinforcement plate, even though it did when you test-ﬁt the pieces earlier, the 1-3/4" hole was likely drilled slightly crooked. Use 120-grit sandpaper to enlarge the hole as needed to have the connector plate ﬁt ﬂush with the reinforcement plate. Figure 7–3 Routed reinforcement plate and connector plate 7–4 Building the pole reinforcement plate Figure 7–4 Reinforcement plate showing connector plate depth Using your tape measure and pencil, make four marks 2" in from the edge on each of the diagonal lines. With the connector plate inserted in the routed-out section, mark the location of the four holes of the connector plate. The pencil marks may be difﬁcult to see in the picture, so I have highlighted each one with a red circle around it. Turn the reinforcement plate over so the top side is up. Place pieces of blue painter’s tape, as shown in the following picture, to minimize chip-out when drilling through the reinforcement plate. 7–5 Building the pole reinforcement plate Figure 7–5 Reinforcement plate showing drill marks and tape Turn the reinforcement plate upside down and carefully drill eight 17/64" holes at the marked locations. Use a drill press, if possible, to make sure the holes are straight. Peel off the blue painter’s tape and use 120-grit sandpaper to remove any chip-outs from the top and bottom of the eight holes. If the tape left any sticky residue, use the sandpaper to remove that as well. Install a 1/4" x 2-1/2" carriage bolt into each of the eight holes from the top side of the reinforcement plate. Install a 1/4" x 1" fender washer onto each of the eight protruding bolts on the bottom side of the reinforcement plate. Install the connector plate as shown previously. Use a spare 1/4" hex nut and a 7/16" open end wrench to draw the square section of each bolt head one at a time into the wood of the reinforcement plate, as previously described in Chapter 6. Remove the 1/4" hex nut and install a 1/4-20 wing nut onto each bolt. Caution: The wing nuts should only be installed loosely at this time, as you will be removing them in a future step. 7–6 Building the pole reinforcement plate Figure 7–6 Reinforcement plate bottom and top view with hardware With the reinforcement plate top side up on the 5-gallon bucket, insert the threaded end of the Ultimate Support pole through the 1-3/4" hole in the reinforcement plate and screw it ﬁnger-tight into the connector plate. Caution: The pole should screw into the connector plate without binding or resistance, and the pole should be vertical (not tilted). If this is not the case, you may need to use 120-grit sandpaper to enlarge the 1-3/4" hole. 7–7 Building the pole reinforcement plate Figure 7–7 Completed reinforcement plate with pole 7–8 8 Drilling the base(s) for the reinforcement plate Start by removing all hardware from the reinforcement plate, carefully setting it aside for future use. You should have already removed the sliding platforms, channel sections, and related hardware from the base. Using your tape measure and pencil, locate the exact center of the top side of the base and mark with a pencil. The pencil mark may be difﬁcult to see in the picture, so I have highlighted it with a red circle. Note: This and subsequent drilling are done the same on the full-size base and the non-sliding base. The non-sliding base is shown for simplicity. Figure 8–1 Marking the center of the non-sliding base Using the 44mm hole saw and drill press, drill a hole at the center location you previously marked on the base plate. Drill from the top side to minimize visible chip-out. Carefully examine both the base and the reinforcement plate to decide which edge on each you want to face toward the front of the completed OBP. This will generally be the more attractive part of the wood, but it is entirely a matter of personal preference. Using a permanent marker pen, label the top of the base plate and the bottom of the reinforcement plate with the letter "F" (for front) and an arrow, as shown in the following picture. Note: When the OBP is assembled, those marks will be on the inner surfaces of the OBP and not visible. 8–1 Drilling the base(s) for the reinforcement plate With the top of the reinforcement plate up (the opposite of how it is shown in the following picture), carefully line up the 1-3/4" holes, making sure to keep the "F" marks and arrows aligned. Using your tape measure, make sure the reinforcement plate is perfectly even. While holding the reinforcement plate to keep it from moving, use a 17/64" drill bit to pass through an existing 17/64" hole in the reinforcement plate and drill through the base plate. After drilling each hole, place a 1/4" x 2-1/2" carriage bolt in the hole and then continue drilling out the other seven holes one by one, placing a carriage bolt in each as you go along. Notes: The reason to mark the front with the "F" marks and arrows is that it is unlikely your holes were drilled with enough precision to allow the reinforcement plate to be rotated on the base and still have the holes lined up perfectly. The carriage bolts are inserted into the completed holes to hold the reinforcement plate in position without slippage while drilling the additional holes. 8–2