A T rio of R adish Hors D ’ oeuvres Crisp radishes are the first root vegetable of spring, and a sure sign of more good things to come. We grow several varieties, and pulling the first crop every year never ceases to be a thrill. Cooked radishes, which are not unlike turnips, can be quite delicious, but more commonly they're eaten raw. Use them in salads, or in one of these lovely hors d'oeuvres. Radishes with Sweet Butter and Sea Salt This simple crudity is a specialty of the French countryside, where you can usually get superior sweet (unsalted) butter. If you have a source for fresh local butter this is a wonderful use for it. Radishes Sweet butter, softened Sea salt or coarse salt Trim radishes, leaving about an inch of stem and cut in half lengthwise, trying for some stem on each half to use as a handle. Serve with a ramekin of butter (which is spread on the cut si de of the r adish) and salt for sprinkling. Radish and Chive - Fruit Butter Canapes Makes 30 to 40 canapes These canapes require a little effort, but they are simply beautiful - and delicious. ½ stick butter, softened 1 tablespoon apricot preserves 1 tablespoon finely chopped chives 8 to 10 slices thin - sliced bread - whole wheat or white About 6 radishes, thinly sliced Chive spears Salt Stir together the butter, preserves, and chopped chives. Remove bread crusts and cut each slice into four quarters; s pread with chive - fruit butter. Arrange three radish slices on each, top with chive spears, sprinkle with salt, and serve. (Can be made an hour or two ahead, covered with damp paper towels, wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated.) Radish and Melon Sals a Makes a bout 1 ½ cups Spoon a dollop of this colorful and crunchy salsa on crackers that have been spread with soft fresh goat cheese or cream cheese, or serve it atop grilled fish or chicken. 1 cup diced honeydew or cantaloupe melon ½ cup chopped radishe s (about 10) 2 scallions, thinly sliced 2 to 3 teaspoons finely chopped jalapenos, fresh or pickled 1 tablespoon lime juice 1 tablespoon olive oil 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro, optional Salt In a bowl, stir together all ingredients, seasoning to taste with salt. Set aside at cool room temperature for an hour or so to allow flavors to develop, or cover and refrigerate for up to a day or so.