BARABA -

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BARABA 3D printed repeating crossbow Assembly guide Thank you for purchasing this file. A lot of hours and failed prints went into this fun project so thank you for your support and investing time and money in trying to build this fun and DANGEROUS TOY. That being said, here are some warnings, READ CAREFULLY BEFORE YOU START ! 1. This file is meant to be a toy, a fun project for 3D printers and makers. It is not a weapon to kill or hurt living things and people, or make damage to other people's property. Please use a target to have fun like a normal and mature person you are. If you are smart enough to make this - you are smart enough to know right from wrong. If you are a parent making this for a child you should be careful and use common sense and just don't . 2. This toy could hurt you , you are responsible for assuring the maximum quality of materials you use and print quality . The tension made by the bow could break off some of the plastic parts when shooting and hurt you. You are warned ! 3. Is making this kind of thing LEGAL where you live? Are there laws against making this kind of stuff in your country? You find out before you get in trouble. The creator and distributor of this file are not responsible for the laws YOU break. 4. Be realistic with your expectations with this toy, it is not a real weapon. You are not going to kill ninja zombies with it in the middle of the night while wearing night vision and fingerless tactical gloves. But it’s still fun to pretend you will :) 5. The quality of this toy’s action, workings and looks depends to a large extent on your skill level as a maker and a printer. The crossbow shown in the pictures here and in the video is made on an “off the shelf” cheap Ender 5 printer. A moderate amount of sanding and filing is required for the mechanisms to work properly. HAVE FUN ! :) NON PRINTED PARTS REQUIRED FOR THIS BUILD: 1. COBRA system bow and string 2. 284mm aluminum profile, standard 20mm one that most 3D printers are made of. 3. Machine bolts and nuts. Get some more than listed because the bolts often fail. 4 x M3_30m bolts 20 x M3_20mm bolts 4 x M3_15 mm bolts 4 x M3_25mm bolts 40x M3 nuts 1x M4_40mm bolt 4. 1x M4 nut 5. M5x100mm screw for main lever reinforcement (optional) and M5 bolt 6. 4 compression springs and one tension spring 8 mm radius. 7. Pistol arrows 8. Rubber, like from a bicycle tire, to cut in 8mm strips. 9. Piece of steel wire 20mm long 10. Paint for details to make it look good ( optional). TOOLS: 1. 3D printer 2. Alen key 3. Screwdrivers 4. Standard tools for cleaning FDM prins, removing supports and such. 5. Sandpaper 6. Box cutter 7. 3 mm drill piece for aluminum 8. 8 mm drill piece for aluminum 9. Drill 10. Soldering iron 11. Scissors 12. Pliers 13. Hacksaw or tool to cut aluminum core to propper size. 14. Small files 15. Lighter TOOLS INCLUDED: 1. Drilling guide to print, if you don't want to use them there are drill measurements at the end of this document.. 2. Link to spring making tool, spring factory https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LC6OpSbCAPU https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5171637 First you should inset 6mm nuts with a soldering iron on various parts. All the externally visible parts on the left side of a pistol have hex shaped inserts. The inserts are a little smaller than the 6mm nut but this is by design so that plastic could melt and snugly hold the nut in place. Some of the parts have hex inserts in not so obvious places. These are the parts and nut locations. 1. Inner side of CARRIAGE . 2. MAGAZINE BODY back left, and right side in the indicated place 3. FRONT BLOCK carrying Cobra bolt and string stopper, 9 x 6 mm nuts and one 8mm nut. 4.PISTOL GRIP core, 4 x 6mm bolts When inseting bolts use a small screwdriver to make sure hot bolts slide in enough. 5. PIN from the magazine mechanism With nuts set in place you can begin the actual assembly. FRONT BLOCK and 2020 PROFILE ASSEMBLY: Place the 2020 profile snugly to it’s place, and mark one side hole and two from the below. You can use drill bit truth holes to mark them , but only if you haven’t inset the hex nuts. Alternatively you can use a small screwdriver and a bit of paint to mark the hole positions. Use a nail and a hammer to make dents on the marked places for the holes, this will ensure that the drill bit doesn’t move around when starting a hole. PISTOL BODY There are 8 parts to the pistol body. There is body CORE , two sides L and R, a short axis pin connecting two sides, one gear, trigger, and a geared rail. Take the RIGHT side of the body and attach an axis pin through a hole on the side. This pin also has R and L ends to it. You can tell by the curvature that fits the handle counture. Assemble the mechanism as shown in the pictures, try if the mechanism works properly before closing. By pressing the trigger the gear should be pushin the geared rail upwards. When installing the geared rail, rotate it so that the flat side can pass through the slot on the left side of the pistil body. If the rail is a little wobbly it will be stabilized once it goes through the round 8 mm hole you made on the aluminum profile. Make sure to lubricate the mechanism so it will work properly. The trigger must go back and forward smoothly when the spring is pushing it back. Make sure to sand and file all of the contact with the pistol body core. Add a lach to the bottom part of the handle and of course don't forget the springs. You should be able to complete the body with the other half. DO NOT TIGHTEN IT TOO MUCH at the moment. Attach the whole thing to aluminum with the screws from above. The top of the geared rail should pass through an 8mm hole and should be flush with the top plain of the aluminum core when passive. When the trigger is pressed it should protrude at least 5 mm upwards . Try this until the mechanism works properly . Do not tighten the screws too much since plastic could bend and impede with mechanism. MAGAZINE Assemble the front and back of each side of the magazine with a bolt from the or print it in 2 pieces if your print bed is larger. The string catcher is made out of two symmetrical parts. Use superglue to bond them, then take a short piece of steel wire bent in an L shape. The wire should be long as the sting catcher is wide. Use pliers and lighter to melt the wire in like in the picture. File the excess wire on the opposite side so it wouldn't scratch the magazine inside wall and stop the action. Attach the tension spring ( or rubber ) to the wire on the string catcher and the opposite end of the spring will be attached to the screw above. The spring should be pulling the catcher upwards. Add the safety pin in ist slot, and the compression spring above. IMPORTANT NOTE: The contact between these two parts determines the timing of the string catching action. If the string is not being catched by string catcher try gradually filing off the material from the string catcher part marked with red. Close the magazine with 3 screws and then attach it to the BASE with a screw through a hole in front of the magazine. Add a bolt through a slot on the back of the magazine, right side. This bolt goes through a SAFETY PIN inside the magazine and is for the purpose of de-cocking the string manually. Attach the back of the magazine to CARRIAGE with a bolt Try the mechanism . STRING STOPPERS AND SLIDE The front part is designed so that the magazine base, which is a little wider, slides beneath SLIDERS when assembled . Take two SLIDERS ,be careful which one is left and which one is right. Attach it to the FRONT element using the first hole from the front, do not tighten it up. Take two plates ( also L and R relevant) and use two screws to loosely attach it to the main body through the slider. Use rubber strips or one tick rubber strip 8mm wide.and put it in place like in the picture. Tighten it up against the main body and then tighten the first screw from the front. Now wrap the strip around and from the top, tighten two screws on the plate down so that it secures the rubber stripst tight. Use small piece of rubber on the other side of plates pressing so that pressure from the plates would be equal Slide the magazine on with the CARRIAGE sliding from the back of the aluminum profile. Install the SLIDER and STOPERS on the other side of the pistol. Make sure it slides good enough to work since it will slide easier later as you use the pistol. LEVERS Connect the MAIN LEVER to the front body. Connect the SIDE LEVERS to the CARRIAGE ( levers are also L&R side) relevant. With 20mm bolts on both sides to the main lever. Use 15mm bolts to attach them to the CARRIAGE. Check the magazine sliding action. The main Lever since update 9 has a M5x100mm screw for main lever reinforcement (optional). It is inserted through the front and has a nut you need to insert from the bottom. AMMO PRESS BOW Slide the bow through the hole, it is tight but it will fit. Use Hodor and a piece of rubber and tiny screw like in the pictures. BACK PICATINNY RAIL Connect two sides , slide it from the back , and attach it with a screw from the back. Here are the photos of back end and mounting the stock that is optional. First use the right side of the adapter to mark where to drill the 4 holes through the aluminum profile. Two holes on the existing alu profile and two on the new part that will be the core of the stock part. The fifth hole on the top is for picatinny rail to connect two sides. Cut the aluminum profile to proper size using the middle part of the stock to see how far it slides in. Also drill 1x 3mm hole where you will install one 1.5mm bolt to serve as a stopper. Check how far the mid magazine can slide so that the bolt head stops it. The position of the mechanism elements and springs, notice that the bottom safety pin has an inset for 6 mm bolt. When assembled insert the 1.5 mm bolt through the pin from the outside through the curved slot. Make sure that middle body protrusions slide inside the base . Measure the proper length of geared rail and glue it inside the bottom groove. The “teeth” should be orientated so that the mechanism can slide backwards and not return until the bottom safety pin is pressed down. You can test this by hand by pressing the bolt down the curved slot. This is designed so that the slit in the outer stock body presses it downwards automatically when collapsing the finished stock Put the outer body elements in like in the picture, insert the lower spring and back spring and put the both sides together using 20mm bolts. Check the spring action. Install the stock “but” using 20mm bolts. ENJOY !!! The action and features in the video link https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZXwWN9KdsAE The models are oriented for optimal print. The file “magazine\READ FIRST_carriage custom support.3mf” is same as “carriage.3mf but with custom support placed. You can print only one of those to your liking. Almost all of the files require SUPPORT TOUCHING BUILD PLATE. The ones that do not still can be printed with this setting on to support screw holes. All the supports are easily removed. The parts that require more than 65-75% infill are these: 1. front\front core.3mf - more than 75% recommended 2. front\sliderL&R.3mf 3. front\pressLandR.3mf 4. levers\leverL.3mf 5. levers\leverR.3mf 6. levers\main lever1.3mf more than 75% recommended 7. levers\main lever2.3mf more than 75% recommended 8. magazine\backL.3mf 9. magazine\backR.3mf 10. magazine\base.3mf more than 75% recommended 11. magazine\carriage.3mf more than 75% recommended