PLACES QATAR WANDERLUST 36 T QATAR: THE NEW YORK TIMES STYLE MAGAZINE CRUISING DOWN THE very simply named Strada Provinciale 1, a long narrow highway that runs through the heart of Puglia, you lose yourself in a spectacular panorama of rolling hay bales, ancient olive trees and looming historic villas. The landscape with the intermittent appearances of trulli, the region’s signature conical stone-roofed homes, is at its most glorious as the provincial freeway snakes past the tiny town of Cocolicho where even the locals often make pit stops to marvel at the sight. Fertile soils with all-year-long dry weather has blessed Puglia with exceptional produce and a rich history of agriculture marked by the popularity of its “masserias”, once noble homes turned farming estates. Home to luscious ruby primitivo grapes, delightfully juicy cherry tomatoes, gigantic sweet red onions and plump cherries that are totally worth staining your dress for, almost all of the terrain in the region is cultivated. While its coastal towns ooze the vibrancy of seaside glamor, the hilly inlands that border Basilicata and Campania offer an introspective glimpse into the identity of its people and its unique architecture. Whitewashed buildings and homes constructed to complement the geography of the lands and castles carved into rocks and cliffs are reminders of early human civilizations while modern additions are often built to accommodate the behemoth roots of centuries-old olive trees. On the trail of the Puglia aqueduct, the region’s charm unfolds beyond a typical postcard snapshot. STAY Rocco Forte Masseria Torre Maizza A former farmhouse converted into a posh resort that has just reopened its doors this spring with a revived Pugliese spirit. Suites and rooms are designed by Olga Polizzi, incorporating a curated collection of local elements and objects, while the sprawling property is a tranquil oasis to lose yourself among the shady olive groves. Also home to a picturesque and technically challenging nine-hole golf course that highlights the estate’s natural landscape. www. roccofortehotels.com/masseria-torre-maizza Distinctive landscapes, traditions steeped in history, and the magnetic charm of its people define this well-heeled boot of Italy. Text and photographs by Debrina Aliyah Puglia's Rustic Appeal One of the viewing points at Matera. 37 PHOTOGRAPHS BY DEBRINA ALIYAH Agriturismo Piccapane The farmhouse includes an excellent vegan restaurant with new interpretations of traditional local dishes. The eco-friendly property offers a range of activities that highlights the origins of the lands as well as a community base to promote “green conversations.” www.agricolapiccapane.com Dimora Talenti Perched on the cliffs of Polignano a Mare, this boutique bed and breakfast has arguably the best terrace in the small seaside town, where breakfast and sunset drinks take place. Rooms are designed to respect the original elements of the cliffside home with windows overlooking rocky beaches. www.dimoratalenti.it EAT Cibus Ceglie Messapica, home to a renowned cooking school and nicknamed the land of gastronomy, is the must-go for your Pugliese culinary experience. Lillino Silibello takes you through a cuisine that tells the story of the region within the stone walls of Cibus. Via Chianche di Scarano 7, Ceglie Messapica. +39 0831388980. Panificio di Gesu Altamura is home to the origin- certified bread where flour percentages, water sources and crust size are essential for the European seal of recognition of authenticity. Get in early at Panificio di Gesu for a few banters with the head of the family, Domenico di Gesu, while waiting for the wood fire to simmer down for your fresh loaf of Pane Altamura. Via Pimentel Eleonora Fonseca 19, Altamura. +39 0803141213 LaBo’ Puglia is just as much about the people as the land, and here in this cozy little enoteca, the charm and conviviality of the locals set the tone for a great evening of small typical Pugliese dishes and excellent tipples. Via S. Giorgio 44, Trani. +39 0883954221 EXPLORE Puglia Aqueduct Completed just about a century ago, the aqueduct was conceived as a water source for the vast agricultural activities in a region that is notoriously dry. The longest of its kind in Europe, it runs all the way to Santa di Leuca, and alongside it winds a well-marked 250-kilometer bike trail. Pick your spot for a day out on the bike and discover nature reserves, sandy beaches and ancient ruins. www.pedalandseaadventures.com From top: A 16th-century picturesque estate setting lends Masseria Torre Maizza its Pugliese charm; mornings right out at sea on the terraces of Dimora Talenti. PHOTOGRAPHS BY DEBRINA ALIYAH 38 T QATAR: THE NEW YORK TIMES STYLE MAGAZINE Matera Matera has been going through a rejuvenation since it was named the 2019 European Capital of Culture after years of near languish — its famous cave dwelling homes abandoned by its residents in favor of modern apartments. From two vantage points, take in the spectacular vision of a once-buzzing city of cave homes and relive a slice of history with Giuseppe Leone, a local expert guide who will very gladly show you where to find grano arso, a typical Pugliese flour. www.southernvisionstravel.com Itria Valley Home to Puglia’s iconic white villages, Itria Valley is splendid in white during the day and lights up with the moon at night. Martina Franca, Locorotondo and Alberobello are three stops to marvel at signature white facades. Alberobello, a UNESCO Heritage Site, has the highest concentration of trullis in the region, while the annual Valle D’itria Martina Franca Festival brings performing arts and major stars to the city. www.festivaldellavalleditria.it Bruschetta from local tomatoes at Cantina Polvanera. PLACES QATAR WANDERLUST