Rights for this book: Public domain in the USA. This edition is published by Project Gutenberg. Originally issued by Project Gutenberg on 2017-10-12. To support the work of Project Gutenberg, visit their Donation Page. This free ebook has been produced by GITenberg, a program of the Free Ebook Foundation. If you have corrections or improvements to make to this ebook, or you want to use the source files for this ebook, visit the book's github repository. You can support the work of the Free Ebook Foundation at their Contributors Page. The Project Gutenberg eBook, Palace and Hovel, by Daniel Joseph Kirwan This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere in the United States and most other parts of the world at no cost and with almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org. If you are not located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. Title: Palace and Hovel Phases of London Life Author: Daniel Joseph Kirwan Release Date: October 12, 2017 [eBook #55732] Language: English Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 ***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK PALACE AND HOVEL*** E-text prepared by deaurider, Graeme Mackreth, and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page images generously made available by Internet Archive (https://archive.org) Note: Images of the original pages are available through Internet Archive. See https://archive.org/details/palacehovel00kirw ONE MORE UNFORTUNATE. (Page 459.) GRAND STAIRCASE, BUCKINGHAM PALACE. PALACE AND HOVEL: OR, PHASES OF LONDON LIFE. BEING PERSONAL OBSERVATIONS OF AN AMERICAN IN LONDON, BY DAY AND NIGHT; WITH GRAPHIC DESCRIPTIONS OF ROYAL AND NOBLE PERSONAGES, THEIR RESIDENCES AND RELAXATIONS; TOGETHER WITH VIVID ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE MANNERS, SOCIAL CUSTOMS, AND MODES OF LIVING OF THE RICH AND THE RECKLESS, THE DESTITUTE AND THE DEPRAVED, IN THE METROPOLIS OF GREAT BRITAIN. WITH V ALUABLE STATISTICAL INFORMATION, COLLECTED FROM THE MOST RELIABLE SOURCES. BY DANIEL JOSEPH KIRWAN. Beautifully Illustrated with Two Hundred Engravings, and a finely executed Map of London. PUBLISHED BY SUBSCRIPTION ONLY. Hartford, Conn.: BELKNAP & BLISS. W. E. BLISS, TOLEDO, OHIO.—NETTLETON & CO., CINCINNATI, OHIO.—DUFFIELD ASHMEAD, PHILADELPHIA, PA. UNION PUBLISHING CO., CHICAGO, ILL. A. L. BANCROFT & CO., SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 1870 E NTERED according to Act of Congress, in the year 1870, by BELKNAP & BLISS, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Connecticut. WILLIAM H. LOCKWOOD, Electrotyper Hartford, Conn. TO S AMUEL L.M. B ARLOW , E SQ ., OF NEW YORK CITY, A T RUE G ENT LEMAN IN E VERY Q UALIT Y AND D UT Y OF L IFE , THESE PAGES ARE DEDICATED, AS A SLIGHT TESTIMONY TO THE U NVARYING F RIENDSHIP BORNE BY HIM FOR T HE AUT HOR PREFACE. In offering this volume to the Public, the result of a year's experience and labor, I must indeed feel gratified, and more than rewarded, if any of those who may peruse its pages shall find in them a tithe of the pleasure which I enjoyed in journeying in and about the nooks, crannies, and curious places, of what may be justly called the greatest and most populous City of the Modern World. Believing that a Metropolis of Three and a Half Millions of people should be observed and described, if observed and described at all, in a large and comprehensive sense, in order that a thorough knowledge of it may be obtained by those who will do me the honor of turning the leaves of this book, I have not hesitated to take my readers into places which they might shrink from visiting alone, and which are rarely or ever seen by the stranger, in London. Therefore have I sketched its Haunts of Vice, Misery, and Crime, as well as its fairer and brighter aspects, with no faltering in my purpose, so that the American people might see London as I saw it, and as it exists To-Day. The material employed in making the book was gathered from personal observation, while acting as a Special Correspondent of the New York World , in London, and I cannot do less than make an acknowledgment of the kindness of its Editor, Mr. Manton Marble, by whose permission I have used some portions of the matter embodied in this work. DANIEL JOSEPH KIRWAN. H ARTFORD , August 1st, 1870. 1. O NE M ORE U NFORTUNATE Frontispiece 2. G RAND S TAIRCASE , B UCKINGHAM P ALACE —Illuminated Title-Page. 3. B IRD ' S -E YE V IEW OF L ONDON , 4. I NITIAL L ETTER , 5. T HE L ONDON S TONE , 6. T HANK YOU , S IR , 7. T HE R OCK AND C HAIN , Tail Piece, 8. I NITIAL L ETTER , 9. S WORD , &c., Tail Piece, 10. E NTRANCE TO D OCKS , 11. I D ON ' T T HINK IT W ILL H URT ME , 12. F OREST , Initial Letter, 13. B UCKINGHAM P ALACE (Full Page,) 14. P ORTRAIT OF Q UEEN V ICTORIA , 15. J OHN B ROWN E XERCISING THE Q UEEN , 16. F ANCY S KETCH , Tail Piece, 17. L ION ON G UARD , Initial Letter, 18. P URTY B ILL S HOWING US IN , 19. W ONT YOU T AKE S OMETHING ? 20. S NAKE S WALLOWING , 21. "B ILKING B ET TAKES THE C HAIR ," 22. "T EDDY THE K INCHIN ' S S ONG ," 23. E XPLOSIVE M ATERIALS , Tail Piece, 24. I NITIAL L ETTER , 25. C OGERS ' H ALL , D EBATING C LUB , 26. S NAKE IN THE G RASS , Tail Piece, 27. I NITIAL L ETTER , 28. C ONSERV ATIVE C LUB H OUSE , 29. C ARLTON C LUB H OUSE , 30. O XFORD AND C AMBRIDGE C LUB H OUSE , 31. U NITED S ERVICE C LUB H OUSE , 32. A RCHITECTURAL S KETCH , Tail Piece, 33. I NITIAL L ETTER , 34. W ESTMINSTER A BBEY , 35. S HAKESPEARE ' S T OMB , 36. T OMB OF M ILTON , 37. T OMB OF M ARY Q UEEN OF S COTS , 38. C ORONATION C HAIR , 39. G AUNTLETED H AND AND S WORD , Tail Piece, 40. I NITIAL L ETTER , 41. V ICTORIA T HEATRE IN THE N EW C UT , (Full Page,) 42. R AG F AIR , 43. A C ELL W INDOW , Initial Letter, 44. T HE L AST E XECUTION AT N EWGATE , 45. F ETTERS AND C HAIN , Tail Piece, 46. B ROKEN W HEEL , Initial Letter, 47. D OCTORS ' C OMMONS , 48. E AGLE AND S NAKE , Tail Piece, 49. I NITIAL L ETTER , 50. A B OHEMIAN C AROUSE , 51. A W ATER S CENE , Tail Piece, 52. T OWER OF L ONDON (Full Page,) 53. I NITIAL L ETTER , 54. T RAITORS ' G ATE , 55. T HE C ROWN J EWELS , 56. I MPERIAL O RB , A MPULLA AND OTHER J EWELS , 57. T HE S TATE S ALT -C ELLARS , 58. C ANNON , Tail Piece, 59. I NITIAL L ETTER , 60. T HE C ADGERS ' M EAL , 61. R AFT T IMBER , Tail Piece, 62. T HE O LD O AK , Initial Letter, 63. B ATHING IN H YDE P ARK , 64. T HE L ABYRINTH , 65. T HE C RYSTAL P ALACE , 66. T HE P ROMENADE , Tail Piece, 67. F ORT AND W ATER S CENE , Initial Letter, 68. P ORTRAIT OF THE P RINCE OF W ALES , 69. P RINCE AND C ABMAN , 70. B ROKEN W AGON AND D EAD H ORSE , Tail Piece, 71. B LOOD -H OUNDS IN THE L EASH , Initial Letter, 72. P ORTRAIT OF L ADY M ORDAUNT , 73. P ORTRAIT OF THE D UKE OF H AMILTON , 74. P ORTRAIT OF THE M ARQUIS OF W ATERFORD , 75. P ORTRAIT OF THE M ARQUIS OF H ASTINGS , 76. M OUNTED C ANNON , Initial Letter, 77. H OUSES OF P ARLIAMENT (Full Page,) 78. P ORTRAIT OF W ILLIAM E WART G LADSTONE 79. T HE L EGISLATIVE B AR -M AID , 80. P ORTRAIT OF J OHN B RIGHT , 81. T HE S TUDENT , Tail Piece, 82. I NITIAL L ETTER , 83. "C OULD YOU M AKE IT A T ANNER ?" 84. T HE S PEAKER OF THE H OUSE , 85. F IRST L ORD OF THE A DMIRALTY , 86. P ORTRAIT OF R OBERT E. L OWE , 87. G LADSTONE S PEAKING IN THE H OUSE OF C OMMONS (Full Page,) 88. L ANDSCAPE , Tail Piece, 89. I NITIAL L ETTER , 90. T HE P OCKET -B OOK G AME , 91. S TEAM F RIGATE , Tail Piece, 92. A B ROADSIDE , Initial Letter, 93. T HE S EWER H UNTER , 94. B LOOD -H OUND , Tail Piece, 95. I SLAND , Initial Letter, 96. C ATS R ECEIVING R ATIONS , 97. T HE G REAT P ORTER T UN , 98. I NITIAL L ETTER , 99. T HE H ARV ARD C REW (Full Page,) 100. B RIDGE , Tail Piece, 101. I NITIAL L ETTER , 102. T HE O XFORD C REW , (Full Page,) 103. T HE U NIVERSITY R ACE , (Full Page,) 104. B EAUTIFUL C RAFT , Tail Piece, 105. I NITIAL L ETTER , 106. H OSPITAL S HIP "D READNOUGHT ," 107. J ONATHAN W ILD ' S S KELETON , 108. I NITIAL L ETTER , 109. C OKE P EDDLER , 110. B UM B OATMAN , 111. "I G ETS IT FOR C IGAR S TUMPS ," 112. S TREET A CROBATS , 113. P UNCH AND J UDY , 114. I NITIAL L ETTER , 115. N ELSON ' S M ONUMENT , 116. D AMAGED T REE , Tail Piece, 117. I NITIAL L ETTER , 118. N URSERY IN THE F OUNDLING H OSPITAL , 119. W ASHING THE W AIFS , 120. L ANDSCAPE , Tail Piece, 121. I NITIAL L ETTER , 122. B REAKFAST S TALL , C OVENT G ARDEN M ARKET (Full Page,) 123. T HE O RANGE M ARKET , 124. G OING TO M ARKET , Tail Piece, 125. F ANCY P IECE , Initial Letter, 126. W ILD AND D ESOLATE , Tail Piece, 127. I NITIAL L ETTER , 128. F OREIGN C AFE IN C OVENTRY S TREET 129. C ANTEEN OF THE A LHAMBRA , 130. T HE O LD S INNER , 131. R OUGH AND R EADY , Tail Piece, 132. I N THE H AYMARKET , 133. I NITIAL L ETTER , 134. S T . P AUL ' S C ATHEDRAL , 135. S HARP -S HOOTER , Initial Letter, 136. "B EAUTIFUL M ISS N EILSON ," 137. A G IN P UBLIC IN THE N EW C UT , 138. A G ALLERY OF THE "V IC ," 139. P UTTING ON A IRS , Tail Piece, 140. I NITIAL L ETTER , 141. A N A UCTION AT B ILLINGSGATE F ISH M ARKET , (Full Page,) 142. I NITIAL L ETTER , 143. L INCOLN ' S I NN , 144. F ANCY S KETCH , Tail Piece, 145. A N E NGLISH O AK , Initial Letter, 146. B ANKERS ' E ATING -H OUSE , 147. T HE B ANK OF E NGLAND , 148. "I B EGAN TO P ERSPIRE ," 149. C ARPET -B AG , Tail Piece, 150. L ONDON B RIDGE , (Full Page,) 151. F OREST S CENE , Initial Letter, 152. T EMPLE B AR , F LEET S TREET , 153. T HE N EW B LACKFRIARS B RIDGE , 154. B RIDGE AND W ATER S CENE , Tail Piece, 155. I NITIAL L ETTER , 156. W INDSOR C ASTLE , 157. T AIL P IECE , 158. I NITIAL L ETTER , 159. L OADING THE P RISON V AN , 160. D ETECTIVE I RVING , 161. B EFORE THE L ORD M AYOR , 162. B IBLE AND H AND , Initial Letter, 163. P ORTRAIT OF S PURGEON , 164. P ORTRAIT OF F ATHER I GNATIUS , 165. "L OTHAIR " (M ARQUIS OF B UTE ,) 166. R UINS , Tail Piece, 167. I NITIAL L ETTER , 168. "S COTT ' S " IN THE H AYMARKET , 169. T HE M IDNIGHT M ISSION , (Full Page,) 170. "S KITTLES " AND THE P RINCESS M ARY , 171. A R OW IN C REMORNE , 172. S WORD AND P URSE , Initial Letter, 173. P ORTRAIT OF "M ABEL G REY ," 174. P ORTRAIT OF "A NONYMA ," 175. P ORTRAIT OF "B ABY H AMILTON ," 176. M ABEL G REY AT H OME , 177. P ORTRAIT OF "A LICE G ORDON ," 178. S NAKE AND D OVE , Initial Letter, 179. A M EAL AT A C HEAP L ODGING H OUSE , (Full Page,) 180. "D AMNABLE J ACK ," 181. S TATUE OF G EORGE P EABODY , 182. T AIL P IECE , 183. I NITIAL L ETTER , 184. O LD "S MUDGE ," THE C ABBY , 185. "A H ANSOM C AB ," 186. "O NE H UNDRED R ATS IN N INE M INUTES ," 187. T HE R AT -C ATCHER , 188. "P ADDY ' S G OOSE ," 189. W AITING FOR THE T IDE , 190. R UINS , Tail Piece, 191. "T HE T IMES " O FFICE , 192. T HE S UB -E DITORS ' R OOM , "D AILY T ELEGRAPH " O FFICE , 193. P ORTRAIT OF J AMES A NTHONY F ROUDE , 194. P ORTRAIT OF A LGERNON C HARLES S WINBURNE , 195. P ORTRAIT OF J OHN S TEWART M ILL , 196. P ORTRAIT OF B ENJAMIN D ISRAELI , 197. P ORTRAIT OF J OHN R USKIN , 198. P ORTRAIT OF C HARLES K INGSLEY , 199. P ORTRAIT OF A NTHONY T ROLLOPE , 200. T AIL P IECE , 201. I NITIAL L ETTER , 202. H ALF -P ENNY S OUP H OUSE , (Full Page,) 203. A P AWN -B ROKER ' S S HOP , 204. A T HIRD C LASS R AILWAY C ARRIAGE , 205. T AIL P IECE , 206. M AP OF L ONDON , CHAPTER I. THE MISTRESS OF THE WORLD. View from the Cupola of St. Paul's Cathedral—Population of London—Its Wealth and Poverty—Interesting Statistics, 17 CHAPTER II. THE SILENT HIGHWAY. The Thames Embankment—The Tunnel—The Subway— Tunnel Thieves—Pneumatic Railway, 24 CHAPTER III. THE DOCKS, SHIPPING, AND COMMERCE. Custom-House Duties—Immense Wine Vaults under the Docks—Hoisting and Discharging Cargoes—London and West India Docks—Opposition to the New Dock System—Dock Laborers, 28 CHAPTER IV PALACES OF LONDON. St. James—Whitehall—Buckingham Palace— Magnificence of the Queen's Residence—The Grand Staircase—Queen's Library—The Famous John Brown , 42 CHAPTER V HIDDEN DEPTHS. Underground Life—A Friendly Visit among Thieves and Pick-Pockets—The Midnight Feast, 58 CHAPTER VI. DEBATING CLUBS AND COGERS' HALL. Society of Cogers—The Most Worthy Grand—News of the Week—Interesting Debates—Irish Orator and Scotch Presbyterian—Liberals and Conservatives —"Where are we now?"—Farce and Tragedy, 76 CHAPTER VII. CLUBS AND CLUB HOUSES. Aristocratic Members—Entrance and Subscription Fees —How Managed and Supported—Architectural Splendor—Choice Wines and Luxurious Dinners— Interesting Statistics—A Model Kitchen—Heavy Swell Club, 92 CHAPTER VIII. WESTMINSTER ABBEY. Its Dimensions and Architectural Construction—Its Wealth and Immense Revenues—The Burial-Place of the Kings and Queens—Magnificence of their Tombs— Tomb of Shakespeare—Tomb of Milton—Tomb of Mary Queen of Scots—Coronation of William the Conqueror—The Massacre, 107 CHAPTER IX. THE COSTERMONGERS AND RAG FAIR. The New Cut—Heathenism of the Costers—Marriage Relation—Old Clothes District—Petticoat Lane— Congress of Rags—Modus Operandi of Selling, 128 CHAPTER X. FROM NEWGATE TO TYBURN. Dying for an Idea—Execution of Barrett—Man in the Mask—Famous Criminals—Pestiferous Prison—The Old Bailey Court—Hotel Regulations—Drinking from St. Giles' Bowl, 145 CHAPTER XI. DOCTORS' COMMONS. Marriage Licenses—Divorces—Ecclesiastical Court— High Court of Admiralty—Paying the Piper—Legal Scoundrelism—The Last Will and Testaments of Shakespeare, Milton, and of Napoleon Bonaparte— The Forgotten Sailor, 159 CHAPTER XII. THE BOHEMIANS OF LONDON. Carlisle Arms—A Pint of Cooper—Cockerell's Lodgings —Fitz and Dawson, or the Radical and Conservative Reporter—The Short Hand Reporter—Dawson's Story—A Song from the Speaker—Beautiful Potato, 167 CHAPTER XIII. TOWER, PALACE, AND PRISON. Its History and Dimensions—Council Chamber—Jolly Bishops and Royal Prisoners—The Traitor's Gate— Anne Boleyn—Princess Elizabeth—Heroism of Lady Jane Grey upon the Scaffold—The Crown Jewels— What can be seen for a Sixpence, 183 CHAPTER XIV CADGERS OF LONDON BRIDGE. Under the Arches—Vagrancy and Pauperism—The Family Gathering—The Cadger's Meal—A Confirmed Vagrant—The Girl Molly—The Hopeful Son—The Cadger's Story, 207 CHAPTER XV THE LUNGS OF LONDON. Regent's and Hyde Parks—Dimensions of the Public Parks and Gardens—What they Contain—Bathing in Hyde Park—Richmond Park with its Forests and Hunting Grounds—Hampton Court Park—Its Labyrinth—The Crystal Palace—Veteran Musicians—Greenwich Park—Grand Observatory, 216 CHAPTER XVI. THE RAKES OF THE ROYAL FAMILY. Vagabonds in Kingly Robes—Prince of Wales and his Personal Friends—The Prince and the London Brewer as Firemen—Lord Carington as a Coachman —His Cowardly Assault upon Greenville Murray— The Prince and Cabman—Infamy of the Prince—A Mad King, 226 CHAPTER XVII. FAST YOUNG ENGLAND. Lord Carington—Lady Mordaunt, Divorce Proceedings, and Interesting Testimony—Love Letters of the Prince—Duke of Hamilton—The Fastest Young Man in England—The Marquis of Waterford—Marquis of Hastings—Duke of Newcastle—Earl of Jersey— Lord Clinton and others, 240 CHAPTER XVIII. LORDS AND COMMONS. Westminster Palace and Houses of Parliament—Interior of the House of Commons—Bobbies and Cabbies— Strangers' Gallery—The Legislative Bar-Maid— William Ewart Gladstone—England's Greatest Commoner John Bright, 270 CHAPTER XIX. LORDS AND COMMONS CONTINUED. Reporters' Gallery—Dr. Johnson taking Notes—The Speaker and his Wig—Important Personages—First Lord of the Admiralty—Peers in the Gallery— Gladstone's Early Life—The Eloquence of the Premier—The Sarcasm of Disraeli—Ducal Houses —Upper House of Parliament—Privileges of the Peers, 285 CHAPTER XX. LONDON POLICE AND DETECTIVES. The Old Jewry—Central Detective's Office—Relics of Crimes—Inspector Bailey—Experience of Mr. Funnell—The Pocket-Book Game—New York a Precious bad Place—Police Districts—Expenses Attending them—River Thieves, 318 CHAPTER XXI. HUNTING THE SEWERS. The City Honey-Combed—2,000 Miles of Sewerage—An Unlawful and Dangerous Business—Prizes Found— The Hunter's Story—Great Battle with the Rats— Victory at last, 330 CHAPTER XXII. BACCHUS AND BEER. The English a Great Beer-Drinking People—Amount of Exports—Barclay and Perkins—A Princely Firm— Cats on Guard—The House of Hanbury, Buxton & Co.—Great Porter Tun—Libraries in the Establishments—Quantities of Beer used in London, 337 CHAPTER XXIII. HARV ARD AGAINST OXFORD. Police Arrangements—Thomas Hughes, M.P.—Dark Blue and Magenta—On the Tow-Path—A Frightful Jam— Booths and Shows—Badges and Rosettes—The Dear Old Flag, 344 CHAPTER XXIV STRUGGLE AND VICTORY. On Board the Press Boat—The Harvard Crew—Loring's Condition—Simmons the Pride of the Crew—The Oxford Crew—"Little Corpus," the Coxswain—The Start—Harvard Leads—Burnham's bad Steering— Oxford's Vengeance Stroke—The Last Desperate Struggle—Beaten by Six Seconds—Fair Play and Courtesy, 362 CHAPTER XXV CURIOSITIES OF LONDON. "Domesday Book"—Oldest Books in England—Hospital Ship "Dreadnought"—A Gaudy Show—The Queen's Stage-Coach—Jonathan Wild's Skeleton—The Lord Mayor's State Coach—Installation of a London Sheriff, 382 CHAPTER XXVI. STREET SIGHTS OF LONDON. Street Hawkers—Venders of Old Boots and Shoes—The Dog Fancier—Bird Sellers—Coke Peddlers—Bum Boatman—Stock in Trade—How Dick gets his Porridge—"I Gets it for Cigar-Stumps"—Street Acrobats—Punch and Judy Show, 391 CHAPTER XXVII. THE BRITISH MUSEUM AND NATIONAL GALLERY. Its Origin—Laying the Foundation—Reading Room— Departments of the Museum—The Galleries and Saloons—The Three Libraries—What can be seen— Nelson's Monument—Pictures and Works of Art in the National Gallery—The Great Masters—Free to the Working People, 410 CHAPTER XXVIII. NAKED AND NEEDY. Infanticide—The Benevolent Captain—Foundling Hospital—Admission of Children—Great Numbers Received—How they Dine—How they Sleep— Washing the Waifs—Charitable Institutions—An Interesting Sight—Innumerable Bequests, 420 CHAPTER XXIX. MARKETS AND FOOD. Amount of Food Sold—Inspections—Metropolitan Cattle Market—New Smithfield Market—Covent Garden Market—Hot Coffee Girl—Vegetable Market—The Baked Potato Man—The Jews' Orange Market, 435 CHAPTER XXX. SECRETS OF A RIVER. Waterloo Bridge—The Pale-Faced Girl—Three O'clock in the Morning—Weary of Life—A Leap from the Parapet—Fruitless Attempt to Save—A Sad Sight— The Wages of Sin is Death, 452 CHAPTER XXXI. INTO THE JAWS OF DEATH. Leicester Square—Foreign Cafe in Coventry Street—The Abode of Sir Joshua Reynolds—The Residence of William Hogarth—Royal Alhambra Palace—The Great Social Evil—"Wotten Wow"—In the Canteen —The Old Sinner—The Tulip and the Daisy, 461 CHAPTER XXXII. THE "ARGYLE," "BARNES'" AND "CASINO." The Haymarket by Night—The Argyle Rooms—Fast Young Men—Paint and Jewelry—Silks and Satins— Free and Easy—Barnes'—"Holborn Casino"—A Magnificent Saloon—Good Night, 476 CHAPTER XXXIII. ST. PAUL'S CATHEDRAL. Its History and Dimensions—Destruction of Old St. Paul's —Annual Revenues—Prices of Admission— Monuments to Nelson—Burial-Place of Wellington —Nelson's Funeral—A Grand Sight—"I am the Resurrection and the Life," 486 CHAPTER XXXIV GOING TO THE PLAY. Beautiful Miss Neilson—The Lord Chamberlain a Censor —Royal Victoria Theatre—Covent Garden and Drury Lane Theatres—A "Gin Public" in the New Cut—The Gallery of the "Vic"—The Chorus of "Immensekoff," 493 CHAPTER XXXV BILLINGSGATE FISH MARKET. Profit on Fish—Oyster Boats—Number of Fishing Vessels —The Fish Woman—The Old Style of Dress— Breakfast at Billingsgate—Capital Invested— Immense Sales, 508 CHAPTER XXXVI. THE INNS OF COURT. Number of Students—Gray's Inn—The New Hall of Lincoln's Inn—Parliament Chamber—How to become a Lawyer—Procuring Admission—"Hall Dinners"—Cup of "Sack"—The Toast—Irish Students, 518 CHAPTER XXXVII. BANK OF ENGLAND AND THE MINT. Its History—The Riots—Ledgers and Money-Bags—A Powerful Corporation—Bankers' Eating-House— Great Panic of 1825—In the Vaults—Making Sovereigns—Marking Room—How the Coin is Tested—Celebrated Counterfeiters, 526 CHAPTER XXXVIII. BRIDGES OF LONDON. History of Old London Bridge—The Fire of 1632— Where Traitors' Heads were Suspended—Temple Bar—Traffic of London Bridges—Southwark and Waterloo Bridges—The New Blackfriars Bridge— Suspension Bridges—Acrobatic Feats—Scott, the American Diver, 547 CHAPTER XXXIX. WINDSOR CASTLE. Great number of Apartments—The Round Tower—The Audience Chamber—Throne Room—Visit to the Queen's Bedroom—An Elegant Apartment, 556 CHAPTER XL. BEFORE THE MAGISTRATES. The "Old Bailey"—Its Jurisdiction—The Lord Mayor's Court—The Trial of a Young Forger—The Judges' Dinner—Loading the Prison Van—The Mansion House—Detective Irving—The Forger Harwood— How Justice is Administered, 566 CHAPTER XLI. CANTERBURY AND ROME. Churches and Sects—Bishop of London—Archbishop of Canterbury—Spurgeon—"Apocalypse Cumming"— Church of England—Father Ignatius—Roman Catholic Lords—Marquis of Bute, 576 CHAPTER XLII. LEGION OF THE LOST. The Great Parade Ground—"Scott's" in the Haymarket— Oysters in every Style—Prostitutes and Abandoned Women—The Midnight Mission—Rev. Baptist Noel —Cremorne Gardens at Chelsea—A Row at Cremorne—"Skittles" and the Princess Mary of Cambridge, 587 CHAPTER XLIII. SCARLET WOMEN. Goodwood Races—Men of the Turf—Swarms of People —The Barouche and Four—Beauty of its Occupants —"Anonyma" and the Chestnut Mare—"Mabel Grey" and "Baby Hamilton"—The Race for the Goodwood Cup—The Itinerant Preacher—Mabel Grey at Home —"The Kitten"—Alice Gordon, 598 CHAPTER XLIV CHEAP LODGING HOUSES. Eve of the Great Derby Race—Visit to Westminster— Lodging House of Jack Scrag— Four-Penny Beds— Unpleasant Bed-Fellow—Attacking the Enemy—A Lucky Escape—Crowded Buildings—Eminent Philanthropists—Model Lodging Houses— Munificent Gifts—George Peabody's Statue, 615 CHAPTER XLV A TRAMP IN THE BY-WAYS. "Old Smudge," the Cabby—A "Hansom" Cab—Rates of Fares—A Convivial Pup—The Rat Pit—The Terrier "Skid"—The Match for £50—Skid Slaughters a Hundred Rats in 8:40—Paddy's "Goose," or "The White Swan"—Please Excuse me—Waiting for the Tide—Cured of the Blues, 626 CHAPTER XLVI. LITERATURE AND JOURNALISM. Work and Wages—Influence of London Journals— Management of the Press—Circulation and Delivery of Papers—Celebrated Writers—James Anthony Froude—Algernon Charles Swinburne—John Stewart Mill—Benjamin Disraeli—John Ruskin— Charles Kingsley, Anthony Trollope, and others, 636 CHAPTER XLVII. THE POOR OF LONDON. Half-Penny Soup House—The Little Cast-aways and Waifs Provided for—Visit to the Work-House of St Martin's—The Workers' Uniform—The Old Pauper —Daily Rations—Schools—Trades—Struggles and Trials of the London Poor—Pawn-Brokers' Shops— Third Class Railway Carriages, 655 CHAPTER I. THE MISTRESS OF THE WORLD. N the civilized world perhaps such another sight cannot be witnessed, as that which greets the eye from the great Cupola of St. Paul's, when the view is taken on a bright summer morning, after daybreak has settled on the leads and huge gilded cross of this, the most mighty of English Cathedrals. I saw this vast expanse of brick, stone, and mortar, one delicious, but hazy September morning, from the outer circle of the dome, and I shall never forget that peopled metropolis which lay swarming below me like a vast human hive. For a radius of ten miles, the roofs and spires of countless religious edifices, dwelling-houses, banks, the tall cones of storied monuments, the delicate tracery of a forest of slender masts, and the smoky chimneys of innumerable breweries, manufactories, and gas-houses, met my vision, which had already begun to weary long before any of the individual characteristics of the British metropolis had segregated themselves from the aggregate mass. Directly before me, and almost at my feet, lay the turbid Thames, winding in and out sinuously under bridges, and heaving from the labor which the paddles of numerous steam craft impressed in its dirty yellow bosom. These small steamers were of a black and red, mixed, color, and it was only through a glass that I could discern where the two colors met and divided. Passing under the huge stone bridges, their smoke stacks seemed to break in two parts for an instant as they shot under an arch of the huge spans of London or Waterloo Bridges; gracefully as a gentleman bows to his partner in a quadrille, and then the black funnels went back to their original erect but raking position with great deliberation. I had secured an eyrie in the top of St. Paul's at an early hour with the aid of a greasy half crown, which I had slipped to an old toothless verger with his silver-tipped wand, and he readily gratified my wish to allow me egress from the Whispering gallery which encircles the interior dome of the Cathedral, to a point where, giddily, I might lean out and look all over the great city. "It's as good as my place is worth, sir," said he, "to let you look out here. A man who was a little light headed from drinking tumbled from this window some years ago, and was broken to pieces on the cobble stones below." The danger did not prevent me from looking long and greedily at the splendid coup d'[oe]il. THE LONDON STONE. Far up the river to the left the queerly shaped toy turrets and massive ramparts and quadrangles of the Tower broke through the morning haze in shapely and artistic masses, and at the back of the green spot of grass which surmounts Tower Hill, the square, solid, and substantial looking Mint showed where Her Majesty's sworn servants were already at work employed in making counterfeit presentments of her features for circulation in trade and commerce. The Norman tower and flanking buttresses of St. Saviour's, Southwark, next came in range, followed by the long oval glass roof of the Eastern Railway Terminus, facing Cannon street, where is erected London Stone, upon which Jack Cade sat in triumph before the dirty, noisy, rabble, which had followed his fortunes; and now I can see Guy's Hospital with its hundred windows, the Corinthian Royal Exchange in Cornhill, the massive Guildhall where many a bloated Britisher has fed on the fat of the land; the Mansion House in which the Lord Mayor occasionally does petty offenders the honor of sentencing them to the Bridewell; and now the view enlarges to the southward, and the eye takes in the fine Holborn Viaduct, lately honored by the Queen's presence; Barclay and Perkin's massive caravanserai for the brewing of beer, and the gray stones of St. Sepulchre's where the passing bell is always tolled for the condemned Newgate prisoner just before execution. The square, gray blocks of this fortress of crime gloom in an unpitying way below me, and there now is the court yard of Christ's Hospital with the gowned and bare headed school lads at their morning game of foot ball, and their shouts peal upward, even up as high as the dome of St. Paul's, like the chimes of merry music. The great piles of Somerset house and the Custom House frown down on the busy river, and the sound of the bell of St. Clement Dane's in the Strand, striking six o'clock, mingles with the mighty thunder whirr of the incoming train from Dover, which dashes like a demon over the Charing Cross bridge and into its station. Structure after structure rises on the retina, the Treasury Buildings and Horse Guards in Parliament street, Marlborough House, the British Museum, Buckingham Palace, the University College, the Nelson and York Monuments, the splendid club houses in Pall Mall and St. James; Apsley House and Hyde Park with its lakes of silvery water, Westminster Abbey, the Clock and Victoria Towers surmounting the Parliament Houses which overhang the Thames, Lambeth Palace, the residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury, Chief Dignitary of the English State Church and Milbank Penitentiary down in dusty Westminster, and by the way this prison with its eight towers looks like a cruet stand and its towers certainly represent the caster bottles. With its parterre of trees in the central square, the quadrangles of Chelsea Hospital, and the dome of the Palm House in Kensington Garden next come under inspection, and finally I became weary in endeavoring to pierce the haze which the sun had broken into annoying fragments, and failing to penetrate farther than Vauxhall bridge, I give up the task and draw in my head after a last look at the Catherine and