BOOK ILLUSTRATIONS COURTESY OF SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 52 T QATAR: THE NEW YORK TIMES STYLE MAGAZINE IF YOU WERE A Hollywood filmmaker in the 1920s, chances are you would be getting the Italian shoemaker from the Hollywood Boot Shop to dress the feet of your stars. The Roaring Twenties would have marked Salvatore Ferragamo’s final but glorious years in the United States before he went home to Italy for good in 1927. But before the glitz and success of the renowned store on Hollywood Boulevard, Ferragamo had arrived in North America along with thousands of southern Italian immigrants just as Italy had joined the first world war. Alongside his brothers, he ran a custom-shoe repair shop in Santa Barbara, California which drew the attention of prominent film directors of the time including D.W. Griffith, James Cruze, and Raoul Walsh. It was Cecil B. DeMille who commissioned Ferragamo to make the shoes for some of the most notable movies of the decade; The Ten Commandments and The King of Kings. His rising fame prompted the opening of the Hollywood Boot Shop and cemented the influence of Italian leather craftsmanship in the world of cinema. “I seem to glimpse a parallel between the film industry and my activity”, writes Ferragamo in his autobiography, “when the majors (players in Hollywood) overcame the early phase and began expanding and growing, my shop followed right behind them.” Drawing from this period of the shoemaker’s life, the exhibition Italy in Hollywood captures a little-known yet fascinating moment in history that ignited Italian influence in American culture. The historical reconstruction of Ferragamo’s life represents a broader phenomenon of Italian migration to California, the role of the Italian community within the context of the West Coast and the resulting interchange in the world of art, crafts and entertainment arts – areas where Ferragamo’s creativity was prevalent. From a social commentary perspective, it examines the contradictory perception of Italian-Americans, between a positive opinion of Italian history and tradition, and negative criticism of some of the traits that characterized the stereotype of the Italian including instinct, passion, and sentimentalism. A larger part of the exhibition delves deep into Italy’s presence in filmmaking in California, from cinematic styles to on-set work culture distinguished by the image of certain immigrants, the likes of Ferragamo. Italy in Hollywood is curated by Giuliana Muscio and Stefania Ricci and currently runs until 10th March 2019 at the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo in Palazzo Spini Feroni, Florence. By Debrina Aliyah With the late Salvatore Ferragamo as its protagonist, an exhibition traces the phenomenon of Italian migration to California and its influence on Hollywood. A Shoemaker’s Mark in Cinema The Hollywood Boot Shop is recreated within the exhibition. THINGS QATAR APPAREL BOOK ILLUSTRATIONS COURTESY OF SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 53 Bella Worn by Gloria Swanson in the 1928 movie, Sadie Thompson, directed by Roaul Walsh. The American actress was one of Ferragamo’s biggest clients from the days of the Hollywood Boot Shop. Foxtrot An iconic model designed for Joan Crawford, a loyal client of Ferragamo. This shoe was patented on 21st June 1933 and is a celebrated signature design of the brand. Assoluta A personal favorite of Mary Pickford, silent cinema’s most prominent actress and producer. Ferragamo made several versions of this model throughout the Roaring Twenties. Ramon, Silence and Special Shoes were also made for men and actor Rudolph Valentino were often seen in the various styles including boots and dress shoes. CREATIONS COLLECTION Rainbow Future, a psychedelic colorful model inspired by the Rainbow sandal made in suede in 1938 for actress Judy Garland is now available in a limited edition of 100 pairs as part of the prestigious Ferragamo’s Creations collection. The Creations line draws from the museum’s shoe archive to reintroduce in limited and numbered edition of some of Ferragamo’s most iconic pieces, and are entirely handmade using the original constructions, leathers, and shapes, and carries the brand’s historical label, designed in 1930 by futurist painter Lucio Venna. The Qatar selection will also showcase three other iconic shoe styles, the Norma and the Honey pumps which were originally designed for Marilyn Monroe in 1959 as well as the sculptural Calipso sandal from 1956, featuring the ‘cage heel’. The top handle bag, a revival of one of Ferragamo’s best known styles, is available in crocodile and ostrich, in vibrant colors on top of the classic brown and black. Custom orders are also available at the boutique in Villaggio Mall. From Top: Prominent Italian personalities who influenced American culture across artistic industries, The exhibition housed within the Museo Salvatore Ferragamo in Florence, The Rainbow Future shoe is also the brand’s commitment to sustainable production strategies. BOOK ILLUSTRATIONS COURTESY OF SALVATORE FERRAGAMO 54 T QATAR: THE NEW YORK TIMES STYLE MAGAZINE THINGS QATAR APPAREL CREATIONS MUSEUM CAPSULE A capsule collection developed especially for the Italy in Hollywood exhibition commemorates some of the most iconic Ferragamo shoes seen on the silver screen in the 1920s. The collection is currently exclusively available in the region in Qatar.