W indfall Applesauce with Variations Makes about 2 cups From The New England Cookbook , Harvard Common Press ( 1999 ), b y Brooke Dojny By the side of New England roads and in the overgrown meadows of colonial home sites grow twisted, half - dead apple trees. Their fruit litters the ground in the fall, most of it undersized and scarred with rotted spots and insect borings. Often, though, these funny - looking, blemished apples have an intensity of spicy, winey, musky flavor that recalls an ancient, collective taste memory. One recent afternoon, I collected upwards of a dozen different no - name varieties of windfall apples on Carter Point Road in Sedgwick, Maine, and made this splendid sauce from the fruit. Taste each apple type as you go along and don't bother gathering those that are lacking in flavor or that hit you with a mouth - puckering astringency which means they're very high in tannin. Sweetening needs to be according to taste - or depends on the ultimate use of the applesauce. About 2 pounds windfall apples OR a combination of windfalls a nd orchard apples, preferably a sweet variety such as Golden Delicious, Macs, Ida Reds, etc. Pinch of salt Sugar 1. Rinse apples and cut in quarters. (See Note.) Combine with salt in a large saucepan. Add water just until it shows around the fruit. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to medium - low, and cook, covered, stirring now and then, until apples are quite soft, 20 to 30 minutes. Watch level of water and add more if necessary to prevent scorching. 2. Place a large medium - mesh strainer over a bowl. Dump apples into strainer and use a wooden spoon or pestle to force pulp through strainer. Or, strain and puree apples through a food mill. 3. While applesauce is still warm, sweeten to taste with sugar. I begin with about 1/4 cup sugar for 2 cups sauce. V ariations : • For a dessert, sweeten more heavily and serve warm with cream if desired. • If you like a spicy applesauce, add pinches of cinnamon anchor nutmeg. • For a richer dessert sauce, stir in about a tablespoon of butter along with ¼ teaspoon grated lemon zest. • As a relish to serve with meats, stir in about 1 tablespoon grated fresh (preferably) or prepared horseradish. • Or, cook apples w ith about ¼ cup cranberries, add a big pinch of powdered ginger and about 2 teaspoons red wine vinegar. N ote : Or, you can peel & core apples before cooking and then simply beat pulp with a wooden spoon to puree. Windfalls are usually so small and hard th at I find it's easier to cook them without peeling.