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You may copy it, give it away or re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org Title: The Century Cook Book Author: Mary Ronald Release Date: January 2, 2011 [EBook #34822] Language: English *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE CENTURY COOK BOOK *** Produced by Julia Miller and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) Transcriber’s Note Obvious typographical errors have been corrected. A list of these changes is found at the end of the text. Inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation have been maintained. A list of inconsistently spelled and hyphenated words is found at the end of the text. Illustrations have been moved and placed near the paragraph that they illustrate whenever possible. THE CENTURY COOK BOOK SQUARE-CORNERED DINNER-TABLE WITH FOURTEEN COVERS. DECORATIONS IN WHITE. (SEE PAGE 18.) THE CENTURY COOK BOOK BY This book contains directions for cooking in its various branches, from the simplest forms to high-class dishes and ornamental pieces; a group of New England dishes furnished by Susan Coolidge; and a few receipts of distinctively Southern dishes. It gives also the etiquette of dinner entertainments—how to serve dinners—table decorations, and many items relative to household affairs. “NOW GOOD DIGESTION WAIT ON APPETITE AND HEALTH ON BOTH” — Macbeth NEW YORK THE CENTURY CO. 1901 Copyright, 1895, by T HE C ENTURY C O T HE D E V INNE P RESS “To be a good cook means the knowledge of all fruits, herbs, balms and spices, and of all that is healing and sweet in field and groves, and savory in meats; means carefulness, inventiveness, watchfulness, willingness and readiness of appliance. It means the economy of your great- grandmothers and the science of modern chemists. It means much tasting and no wasting. It means English thoroughness, French art and Arabian hospitality. It means, in fine, that you are to be perfectly and always ladies (loaf-givers) and are to see that every one has something nice to eat.” —R USKIN APHORISMS—BRILLAT-SAVARIN. Les animaux se repaissent; l’homme mange; l’homme d’esprit seul sait manger. Dis moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es. Le Créateur, en obligeant l’homme à manger pour vivre, l’y invite par l’appêtit et l’en récompense par le plaisir. La table est le seul endroit où l’on ne s’ennuie jamais pendant la première heure. La découverte d’un mets nouveau fait plus pour le bonheur du genre humain que la découverte d’une étoile. L’ordre des comestibles est des plus substantiels aux plus légers. L’ordre des boissons est des plus tempérées aux plus fumeuses et aux plus parfumées. On devient cuisinier mais on naît rôtisseur. Attendre trop longtemps un convive retardataire est un manque d’égards pour tous ceux qui sont présent. Celui qui reçoit ses amis, et ne donne aucun soin personnel au repas qui leur est préparé, n’est pas digne d’avoir des amis. La maîtresse de la maison doit toujours s’assurer que le café est excellent, et le maître, que les liqueurs sont de premier choix. TIME TABLE. BOILING. MEATS. Time. Mutton per pound 15 minutes. Potted Beef “ “ 30 to 35 min. Corned Beef “ “ 30 minutes. Ham “ “ 18 to 20 min. Turkey “ “ 15 minutes. Chicken “ “ 15 “ Fowl “ “ 20 to 30 min. Tripe “ “ 3 to 5 hours. FISH. Time. Codfish “ “ 6 minutes. Haddock “ “ 6 “ Halibut “ “ 15 “ Blue “ “ 10 “ Bass “ “ 10 “ Salmon “ “ 10 to 15 min. Small Fish “ “ 6 minutes. Lobster 30 to 40 min. VEGETABLES. Time. Potatoes 20 to 30 min. Asparagus 20 to 25 “ Peas 15 to 20 “ String Beans 20 to 30 “ Lima 30 to 40 “ Spinach 15 to 20 “ Turnips 30 minutes. Beets 30 min. or more. Cabbage 20 “ Cauliflower 20 “ Brussels Sprouts 10 to 15 min. Onions 30 to 40 “ Parsnips 30 to 40 “ Green Corn 20 to 25 “ Macaroni 20 minutes. Rice 15 to 20 min. BAKING. MEATS. Time. Beef, ribs, rare per pound, 8 to 10 min. “ “ well done “ 12 to 15 “ “ “ boned & rolled “ 12 to 15 “ Round of Beef “ 12 to 15 “ Mutton, leg, rare “ 10 minutes. “ “ well done “ 15 “ “ loin, rare “ 8 “ “ shoulder, stuffed “ 15 “ “ saddle, rare “ 9 “ Lamb, well done “ 15 “ Veal, “ 18 to 20 min. Pork, “ 20 minutes. Venison, rare “ 10 “ Chicken “ 15 “ Goose “ 18 “ Fillet, hot oven 30 minutes. Braised Meats 3 to 4 hours. Liver, whole 2 hours. Turkey, 8 lbs 1¾ “ “ very large 3 “ Birds, small, hot oven 15 to 20 min. Ducks, tame 45 minutes. “ wild, very hot oven 15 “ Partridge 35 to 40 min. Grouse 20 to 25 “ FISH. Time. Large Fish 1 hour, about. Small 20 to 30 min. Time. Bread 1 hour. Biscuits 20 minutes. Cake 20 to 45 min. Custards, very slow oven 1 hour. BROILING. Time. Steak, 1 inch thick 8 to 10 min. “ 1½ “ 10 to 15 “ Mutton Chops, French 8 minutes. “ “ English 10 “ Spring Chicken 20 “ Quail 8 to 10 min. Grouse 15 minutes. Squabs 10 to 15 min. Shad, Bluefish, Trout 15 to 25 “ Small Fish 5 to 10 “ WEIGHTS AND MEASURES 4 gills = 1 pint. 2 pints = 1 quart. 4 quarts = 1 gallon. 16 ounce = 1 pound. ½ kitchen cupful = 1 gill. 1 kitchen cupful = ½ pint or 2 gills. 4 kitchen cupfuls = 1 quart. } 2 cupfuls of granulated sugar 2½ cupfuls of powdered sugar = 1 pound. 1 heaping tablespoonful of sugar = 1 ounce. } 1 heaping tablespoonful of butter Butter size of an egg = 2 oz. or ¼ cupful. 1 cupful of butter = ½ pound. } 4 cupfuls of flour 1 heaping quart = 1 pound. 8 round tablespoonfuls of dry material = 1 cupful. 16 tablespoonfuls of liquid = 1 cupful. PROPORTIONS 5 to 8 eggs to 1 quart of milk for custards. 3 to 4 eggs to 1 pint of milk for custards. 1 saltspoonful of salt to 1 quart of milk for custards. 1 teaspoonful of vanilla to 1 quart of milk for custards. 2 ounces of gelatine to 1¾ quarts of liquid. 4 heaping tablespoonfuls of cornstarch to 1 quart of milk. 3 heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to 1 quart of flour. 1 even teaspoonful of baking-powder to 1 cupful of flour. 1 teaspoonful of soda to 1 pint of sour milk. 1 teaspoonful of soda to ½ pint of molasses. 1 teaspoonful of baking-powder is the equivalent of ½ teaspoonful of soda and 1 teaspoonful of cream of tartar. For other proportions, see page 340. For measuring, see page 77. PREFACE In France various honors are awarded to cooks. Accomplished chefs de cuisine are by compliment called cordon-bleu , which is an ancient and princely order. A successful culinary production takes the name of the inventor, and by it his fame often lasts longer than that of many men who have achieved positions in the learned professions. Cooking is there esteemed a service of especial merit, hence France ranks all nations in gastronomy. Although definite honors are not conferred on cooks elsewhere, good cooking is everywhere appreciated, and there is no reason why it should not be the rule instead of the exception. In large establishments it may be said to prevail, but in many moderate households the daily fare is of a quality which satisfies no other sense than that of hunger, the hygienic requirements and esthetic possibilities being quite unknown or disregarded. This is what Savarin designates as feeding, in contradistinction to dining. The author believes that the women of to-day, because of their higher education, have a better understanding of domestic duties; that hygiene, economy, system, and methods are better understood and more generally practised. Children are not only more sensibly clothed, but they are more wholesomely fed, and households are directed with more intelligent care. It is hoped that this book will inculcate a desire to learn the simple principles of cooking for the benefits which such knowledge will give, and that it will be of material assistance to any woman who wishes to establish and maintain a well-ordered cuisine. Receipts are given for simple and inexpensive as well as elaborate and costly dishes, and they are intended to be of use to the inexperienced as well as to the trained cook. The rules are given in precise language, with definite measurement and time, so that no supervision by the mistress will be required for any receipt given the cook. At the head of each chapter are given the general rules for the dishes included in that class. Economy, practicability, and the resources of the average kitchen have been constantly borne in mind. The illustrations, it is believed, will aid materially in serving dishes, as they complete and demonstrate the receipts. Many of them are given to attract attention to very simple dishes, which might be selected as suited to one’s convenience, but which might otherwise be overlooked in a hasty perusal of the text. The pictures are from photographs of dishes, many of which are not too difficult for a novice to undertake. The author has fortunately been able to secure from Susan Coolidge a number of receipts of New England dishes; also a few distinctively Southern dishes from an equally experienced Southern housekeeper. These, she hopes, will enable many who have strayed from home to enjoy again the dishes associated with other times and places. Much care has been taken to give a complete alphabetical index, so that anything in the book can be quickly found, even if the ordinary classification is not understood. The chapters on etiquette, serving, etc., are meant to aid those young housekeepers who, from lack of observation or experience, find themselves at a loss to remember small details when the responsibility of an entertainment falls upon them for the first time. The author, in speaking of this book to friends, has had various questions asked and suggestions given, by which she has endeavored to profit. Some of the questions have been the following: “Have you given receipts suitable for a family of two or three?” “Have you given expedients, so if articles called for in the receipts are not at hand others may be substituted?” “Is your book only for rich people?” “Is it not a mistake to use French names, which many do not understand?” etc., etc. In deference to the last suggestion, she has explained the meaning of certain classes of dishes known only by the French names, and which would lose character if translated. A soufflé, for instance, has no special significance when called “inflated,” but the word soufflé defines the class of dishes which are inflated, and is so generally understood that it is almost an Anglicized word. The terms Soufflés, Pâtés, Timbales, Hors-d'œuvres, Entrées, etc., are as distinctive as Stews, Hashes, Creams, etc.; hence there seems no other way than to learn the culinary nomenclature as one partakes of the dishes. The author strongly urges the trial of new dishes, and breaking away from the routine of habit. The preparation of so-called fancy dishes is very simple. A little attention given to ornamentation and garnishing, making dishes attractive in appearance as well as taste, will raise the standard of cooking without necessarily increasing the expense. CONTENTS P ART I PAGE D INNER -G IVING AND THE E TIQUETTE OF D INNERS 1 M ANNER OF S ERVING D INNERS 10 L AYING THE T ABLE 13 T ABLE D ECORATIONS 17 C OURSES 24 T HE H OME D INNER 27 S ERVING THE I NFORMAL D INNER 29 L UNCHEON 31 T HE F IVE O ’C LOCK T EA 33 A H OMILY ON C OOKING 35 C OOKING A S A P LEASURE AND AN A CCOMPLISHMENT 38 T O T RAIN A G REEN C OOK 40 E CONOMICAL L IVING 44 W ASTEFULNESS 50 H OW TO U TILIZE WHAT S OME C OOKS T HROW A WAY 51 E MERGENCIES 55 T HINGS TO R EMEMBER 58 C ARE OF U TENSILS 61 P ART II CHAPTER I M ETHODS OF C OOKING E XPLAINED 67 II S OUPS 84 III F ISH 112 IV M EATS 145 V P OULTRY AND G AME 179 VI V EGETABLES 200 VII { F ARINACEOUS F OODS USED AS V EGETABLES M ACARONI 222 224 227 C EREALS VIII A G ROUP OF R ECEIPTS FROM A N EW E NGLAND K ITCHEN 229 IX { D ISTINCTIVELY S OUTHERN D ISHES V ERY I NEXPENSIVE D ISHES M ISCELLANEOUS R ECEIPTS 246 249 257 X E GGS 261 XI S AUCES 275 XII { E NTRÉES T ERRAPIN , F ROGS ' L EGS M USHROOMS 292 311 314 XIII A SPIC J ELLY , F ANCY M OLDING , S UPPORTS 321 XIV C HAFING - DISH R ECEIPTS 329 XV B READ 338 XVI { S ANDWICHES AND C ANAPÉS C HEESE AND C HEESE D ISHES 364 369 XVII S ALADS 374 XVIII C OLD D ESSERTS 386 XIX { H OT D ESSERTS P UDDING S AUCES 421 444 XX { P IES P UFF P ASTE 450 457 XXI { C AKE I CING AND D ECORATING C AKES 462 483 XXII I CE -C REAMS , W ATER -I CES , P ARFAITS , M OUSSES , P UNCHES 488 XXIII B OILING S UGAR AND M AKING C ANDIES 510 XXIV F RUITS , C OOKED AND F RESH 529 XXV C OMPOTES , P RESERVING AND C ANNING , P ICKLES 535 XXVI B EVERAGES 548 XXVII W INES 560 THE CENTURY COOK BOOK THE CENTURY COOK BOOK P ART I DINNER-GIVING AND THE ETIQUETTE OF DINNERS “To feed were best at home; From thence, the sauce to meat is ceremony, Meeting were bare without it.”— Shakspere A DINNER party may be considered as holding the highest rank among entertainments. In no other social function is etiquette so strictly observed. There are prescribed rules for the form of the invitation, the manner of assigning each guest his place at the table, the manner of serving the dinner, etc.; and when these rules are followed there need be no embarrassments. The Company. It should always be remembered that the social part of the entertainment is on a higher plane than the gastronomic one, though the latter must by no means be slighted. A sentiment expressed by the wit who said, “A fig for your bill of fare, give me a bill of your company,” is generally felt, and a hostess should bring together only such people as she believes will be mutually agreeable. The idea, given by Goldsmith in his “Retaliation,” of looking upon one’s friends as so many pleasant dishes, is offered as a suggestion. He says: If our landlord supplies us with beef and with fish, Let each guest bring himself, and he brings the best dish: Our Dean shall be venison, just fresh from the plains; Our Burke shall be tongue, with a garnish of brains; Our Will shall be wild fowl of excellent flavour, And Dick with his pepper shall heighten the savour; Our Cumberland’s sweetbread its place shall obtain, And Douglas is pudding, substantial and plain; Our Garrick’s a salad, for in him we see Oil, vinegar, sugar, and saltness agree:... At a dinner so various—at such a repast, Who’d not be a glutton, and stick to the last? The Host and Hostess. The hostess should give her instructions for the details of the entertainment so explicitly that on the arrival of the guests she will have no care other than their pleasure. If she is nervous, has wandering eyes, or shows constraint, it affects sensibly the ease of her guests. The spirit of pleasure is infectious, and upon the demeanor of the hosts the success of the evening largely depends. Much tact may be shown in placing the right people together at the table. If one is a great talker let the other be a good listener; if one is dogmatic let the other be without positive views, and so on; for as every one is happiest when appearing well, it is wise to consider the idiosyncrasies of the guests. ’T is a great point in a gallery how you hang your pictures; and not less in society how you seat your party. The Guests. The part of the hosts is thus well defined; but the guests, too, have their obligations, and in recognition of the compliment of being included in an entertainment where the number of guests is limited to very few, each one should make exertion to be agreeable, as a dull dinner companion is a recognized misfortune. At a dinner there is time, not given at most other forms of entertainment, for rational and sustained conversation, and this may be turned to durance vile if one victimizes by egotism or caprice the person who without power of withdrawal is assigned to his or her society for perhaps two hours or more. Also, if one finds oneself neighbor to some person for whom one has a personal antipathy, it must not be allowed to interfere with the general pleasure; and should such a situation occur, there is nothing to do but to make the best of it, and conceal from the hostess the mistake she has unwittingly made— And do as adversaries do in law, Strive mightily, but eat and drink as friends. Under these circumstances the discovery may possibly be made that an unfriendly person is more agreeable than was supposed, and a pleasanter relationship may be established. Time. Two hours is the extreme limit of time that should be given to a dinner; one hour and a quarter, or a half, is preferable. Eight courses served quickly, but without seeming haste, require as much time as most people can sit at the table without fatigue. Last impressions are as enduring as first ones, so it is important not to surfeit, for When fatigue enters into so-called pleasure, failure begins. Judgment shown in combination of dishes, the perfection of their preparation, careful serving, and taste in adornment, are elements of refinement that far outweigh quantity and ostentation. Temperature. The temperature and ventilation of the dining-room should be given careful attention. The best of spirits and the brightest wit will flag in an overheated, ill-ventilated room. It is not always easy to maintain a fresh atmosphere where as many guests are seated as the size of the room permits, but at least the room can be well aired before the dinner is served. Windows opened a very little from both the top and bottom in an adjoining room, with a careful adjustment of screens to protect those who are sensitive to drafts, will do much to keep the air fresh, and will have a sensible effect upon the comfort and mental activity of the company. The Invitation. Invitations are sometimes sent out a month or three weeks in advance, but ordinarily two weeks is sufficient time to secure the guests one wishes to entertain. Courtesy requires a dinner invitation to be answered at once, certainly within twelve hours, but better in less time. This enables the hostess to fill the vacancy in case the invitation is declined. Unconventional people are sometimes unmindful of this obligation, but as a rule those who are accustomed to entertaining recognize the importance of a prompt reply, and answer a dinner invitation immediately. It is well, when convenient, to send the invitation as well as the reply by hand, so that there may be no uncertainty of prompt delivery; to send either of them by post is, however, permissible.