If you are monitoring your EC or TDS you want to aim for an EC range of 1.2 – 1.8 mS/cm or TDS range of 600 – 800 ppm. Strawberries, Cherry Tomatoes, and Other Flowering Plants – (Up to Flowering) 1. To start: Add 30mL of A and 30mL of B to the 10L reservoir. 2. On-going: Add 10mL of A and 10mL of B to the 10L reservoir every two weeks. If you are monitoring your EC or TDS you want to aim for an EC range of 1.2 – 2.0 mS/cm or TDS range of 600 – 1000 ppm Strawberries, Cherry Tomatoes, and Other Flowering Plants – (After Flowering) 1. To start: Add 60mL of Flores nutrients to the 10L reservoir. 2. On-going: Add 15mL Flores nutrient to the 10L reservoir every two weeks. Once flowering begins you will need change to a Flores nutrient which we provide. This nutrient can be found on our website. Maintaining your plants Flowering and Pollination Pollination is essential for the production of fruits or vegetables in your AEVA. If your plants begin to flower, pollination is needed to help the plants reproduce (bare fruits and vegetables). The process of plant reproduction 9|Page involves fruiting. To produce fruit from your plants, you must pollinate the flowers on your plants. This can be accomplished by mechanical pollination. Use a toothbrush/paintbrush/makeup brush/etc. to brush the stamen (the male portion of the flower with is located on the outside of the interior of the flower which holds the pollen) and transfer the pollen onto the pistil (the female portion of the flower). You can also shake the pod – vibration pollination or you can put it near a vent of a fan – wind pollination. The pollination of flowers stimulates reproduction, which leads to fruiting. Do this once a day for 3 days, leave the plant to rest for one day, and then follow with another 3 days of pollination. Pruning To stop overcrowding and keep your plants growing straight and proper, pruning is needed when it gets to a mature growth stage. If left to grow uncontrolled, the plants above can cause light obstruction for other plants. To prune the plants, use clippers or pinch off any yellowing/decaying leave foliage, 10 | P a g e any large leaves that are farthest away from the top of the plant and suckers. Suckers can be identified from their location on the plant. They grow out of the elbow of the main stem and its branches. By keeping the plant groomed, the plants are better ventilated and have access to more light. To properly maintain the root structure in the AEVA (to make sure it doesn’t get too large). You want to pull the black pod out of the system and slightly trim the root mass (Trim about half an inch or 2 cm). Make sure roots don’t impede water circulation or do not come out the front of the pod. Plant Support When your plant has grown to about 6” (15 cm) in size, a plant support will be needed to avoid overcrowding and help support the plant and grow in the upright position. This also helps to prevent dripping of water out the front face of the AEVA. To properly install the plant support, insert the bamboo stick in between the plant plug and the black pod. Loosely tie the plant to the plant support, to guide the plant growth accordingly. Please note the plant support can be found on our website. Maintaining your AEVA 1. Wipe off any debris, splashed water, or nutrient runoff weekly to maintain the visual appeal of your AEVA unit. Remove any dead plant leaves - don’t worry this is normal for plants. 2. Trim the roots of your plants an inch every one to two weeks. If left to grow uncontrolled, the roots can reach into the reservoir and cause damage to 11 | P a g e the AEVA. 3. For best growing practices, wipe off any accumulation of debris or salt buildup from the water reservoir and rinse out at least monthly (more frequent is often better). 4. Make sure to add 10 ml of A and B nutrients every second week. 5. Check reservoir water level once a week and add water as needed maintain it at the appropriate level. 6. Ensure that the drain hose is always inserted back into the reservoir after any refills or cleaning. Harvesting To make the most of your AEVA, harvesting should be completed regularly. Consistent harvesting will encourage faster growth and maximize the use of produce, for peak flavour and greatest nutrition content. Expect to grow 5-10 lbs (2-4.5 kg) of produce per month. Expectations for harvesting varies between plants. Below is a brief description of how to harvest for each type of plant. Note: Harvesting more than 1/3rd of a given plant can potentially shock the plant and stunt its growth. For continuous harvesting, ensure that less than 1/3rd of the plant is harvested or pruned so that the plant will heal and continue growing on a weekly basis. 12 | P a g e Leafy Greens and Brassicas Arugula Arugula grows fairly quickly and should be ready to harvest within 3-4 weeks after seed germination. As the plant grows, feel free to regularly prune the plant for younger leaves as this aids plant development. The head of arugula should be harvested before the plant begins to bolt or lose flavour. Lettuce Lettuce is another fast-growing leafy vegetable that can be harvested in two different ways: For a continuous harvest, you can begin harvesting after 3-4 weeks of growth. To harvest, pick individual leaves on the exterior of the plant while making sure that less than 1/3rd is harvested, so that the plant can continue to grow. Once the lettuce plant bolts or begins flowering, it is time to replace your lettuce with a new plant. You can continuously harvest or wait until the plant has fully matured (about 6 weeks after germination) to harvest the whole head (Note - lettuce likes colder temperatures). Kale Kale can be fully harvested approximately 6 weeks after germination. Kale, much like lettuce, is a plant that can be regularly harvested as required before 13 | P a g e full maturation, or harvested once at full maturation. To harvest baby kale continuously, cut the leaves at the intersection of the leaf branch and stem at the bottom of the plant first. Make sure to keep at least 3 to 4 leaves to allow the plant to continue to grow and avoid cutting the terminal leaf at the top center of the plant. Spinach Spinach should be regularly harvested once the leaves are large enough to eat or in about 5 weeks after germination. However, many prefer baby spinach as it has a sweeter flavour and softer texture. To harvest the plant, you can simply pick the leaves as you please. Ideally spinach is harvested fully once it has matured. Herbs Basil Basil is a perennial plant that can be harvested many times before requiring re-seeding. It is a fast-growing plant that responds exceptionally well to regular harvesting. Mature basil consists of several canopies of leaves. To harvest, cut branches at the highest leaf canopy. Cut the highest leaves to promote more lateral growth. This will lead to the branch splitting and increasing the volume of the plant. 14 | P a g e Mint Mint responds well to regular harvests making the herb fresher and more flavourful. Mint leaves should be continuously picked once they’ve reached a suitable size for consuming. Mint grows back quickly, so it’s best to harvest from the base of the stem, leaving about 1-2 inches of the plant. The plant will grow back in 5-7 days. Cilantro Cilantro also known as Coriander, will take about 6 weeks or when the plant reaches 6 inches in height before it can be harvested (whatever comes first). To harvest, simply pick leaves off the plant as required, or if the plant is getting too large, cut entire bunches together. Rosemary Like Basil, rosemary is a perennial plant but takes slightly longer to grow, approximately 6 weeks. You can harvest rosemary once there are several branches. To harvest, you should trim about 2 inches off each branch ensuring to not take more than 30 percent of the plant at once. Lemongrass Lemongrass is a tropical plant that has an elegant citrus flavour and will take 6 weeks to grow after germination to fully mature. However, the plant can be continuously harvested after about 4 weeks of growth or when stalks are at least half an inch thick (about 2 cm). To harvest, snip entire stalks closer to the 15 | P a g e central stem first. They should be picked first as they will have the most pungent flavour and to allow further plant growth. Parsley Parsley will take approximately 10 weeks after germination to fully grow and should be consistently pruned throughout it’s growing stages. Regular harvest encourages the plant to grow faster and increases the flavour content of the leaves. To harvest the plant, cut the more mature stalks on the outer perimeter of the plant first, and as close to the base as possible. Dill Dill will take 8 weeks to grow after germination before being ready to fully harvest. Throughout the growing process, once the plant has 4 to 5 leaves, you can continuously harvest by simply pinching off the leaves. If the plant is growing large, then you can pinch off entire stalks of Dill. Fruits and Vegetables Cherry Tomatoes This plant will take 6-8 weeks to grow before producing ripe tomatoes. Throughout the plants growing process, you will want to regularly prune the plant, cutting some of the leaves that branch out. Not only will this encourage the plant to propagate, but it will maintain appropriate size in the AEVA. Once 16 | P a g e the plant reaches 20cm to 30cm in height, it should be ready to harvest. At this point, the fruit should also be bright red indicating they are ready to eat! As the plant begins to grow tomatoes trellising and supporting of the plant will be needed. Pollination is required for the tomato plants to bear fruit. Note that peppers are very similar to this process. Strawberries Strawberries will be one of the longest to grow out of any other plant in your AEVA. After about 2 months, the plant should begin to flower and produce fresh delicious berries. Once the plant has flowered pollination is required to bear fruit. Troubleshooting Lights Lights are not turning on 1. Are the lights plugged into the timer? 2. Is the timer plugged into the power bar, and are the pins on the timer in the correct position? Up is off, and down is on. 3. Is the power bar plugged into the wall outlet? 4. Check that the LED lights are securely plugged into the black mounting piece, and that they are fully connected to the light ballast. 5. Make sure your timer is set to ‘timer on’ instead of the ‘outlet on’ position. 6. Test that your wall outlet works by plugging in something else and ensuring there is power running to that device. 7. Make sure the manual override switch, which is located on the wire from the 17 | P a g e timer to the light, is clicked on. 8. The power bar will turn off if water is detected. Only one light is turning on 1. Check that the wires connecting the lights are inserted properly into the ballast. 2. The manual override clicker may be switched off. Each light has its own manual override. Turn the dial to make sure it is in the on position. Lights are flickering 1. Check that the wires connecting the lights are inserted properly into the ballast. 2. Make sure the LED light itself is securely fastened inside the light ballast. Depending on what you are growing, the ideal light range is between 12-18 hours per day. Irrigation There is no water being delivered to the plant sites 1. Is there water in the reservoir? Is the water at the required volume (An inch from the top of the reservoir)? 2. Is the power bar on? 3. Timer is on, Pump is working. 4. Pump to reservoir, and pump to blue supply irrigation. 5. Are there air bubbles in the line? If so, turn everything off for 5 mins and allow the water to return to the reservoir. 6. With the power off, Tilt the reservoir (raise the bottom of right side of the 18 | P a g e reservoir) towards the pump to prime the pump. 7. Turn on the power and continue tilting the reservoir until the pump is working and a slight trickling sound is heard. 8. Check that the pump is plugged in and drawing water. 9. Check that the supply line is connecting the pump to the irrigation system. 10. Turn the pump off, remove from water and clean its built-in filter. There is no power to the pump 1. Test that your wall outlet works by plugging in something else and ensuring there is power. 2. Test your pump by plugging it into a wall outlet directly. Water is leaking from the bottom pods 1. Check for elongated roots on the pods. 2. Remove the pod from plant sight to ensure that the roots are no longer than 3 inches (7.6 cm). 3. Check if the drain hose is kinked. If it is, adjust the location of the reservoir to unkink the hose. Leaking water on the AVEA face 1. When the plant is too heavy, it no longer will stand at the optimal 45° angle, therefore will require a plant support. 2. The stem is slouched which can lead to leaking on the face of the AEVA. 3. Insert the plant support between the plug and the pod. 4. Tie the plant to the support with the materials provided. 19 | P a g e 5. Check that there are no roots, salt or media in the hose lines attaching the elbow in the cabinet or the elbow itself. Also check the drain itself by taking out the bottom pods. This is an irregular occurrence but should be checked monthly. Irregular Growth There could be one or more issues causing this. Some common ones are listed below: 1. Air flow or temperature. If your plants are chronically exposed to hot air, cold air, high humidity, minimal air circulation or too much air circulation, the plants can become stressed. This may happen if your AEVA is next to an exterior door that is opened frequently or if located next to a drafty window or vent. Place the AEVA in an area that is room temperature and has moderate air flow. 2. Having too much of the nutrients in your reservoir can cause tip burn on your plants. This is characterized by browning or yellowing of the leaves and shoots on your plants. It could also cause wilting or weakening of the plant. If a large quantity of nutrients were accidentally added into your reservoir, it is recommended to empty your reservoir and add fresh water and nutrients. 3. Nutrient deficiencies can be indicated by poor plant health. Indicators of these could be plant wilting, yellowing of leaves, browning of leaves (etc.). Please refer to the Plant Nutrition section for correct nutrient dosing requirements. 20 | P a g e 4. If you are running your AEVA on well water or non-municipal water, test the pH level of the water source. A pH outside the normal range of municipal water could negatively affect your plant growth. Heavy metals in the water source may also stunt growth. Supplementary Information The Significance of Micro and Macronutrients The vital macronutrients needed for plant growth are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Plants absorb these nutrients in large quantities. Improper amounts of nutrients result in stunted or irregular growth. Micronutrients and trace elements are taken up in lesser amounts than the main macronutrients but are still very important for plant growth. Nitrogen Nitrogen is the single most important element for plant growth. It is responsible for two main things: 1. The vegetative growth of plants including: leaves, stems, healthy root growth and colour. 2. The formation of chlorophyll, amino acids, co-enzymes, and proteins used in new cell walls. Nitrogen is vital in all types of plant growth and is also used as a supplementary nutrient in both hydroponic and soil applications. 21 | P a g e An obvious sign of nitrogen deficiency is yellowing leaves. This yellowing will first be observed in the lower and older leaves. An excess of nitrogen is harder to spot, especially in traditional leafy greens. In flowering plants, you may notice a decrease in the ability of growing fruits, as most the energy is diverted to growing foliage. Phosphorus Phosphorus is another essential building block of plants. The main role of phosphorus primarily focuses on aiding in tissue formation and cell division, as phosphorus is the main building block of DNA. Phosphorous heavily contributes to the development of: 1. Roots 2. Flowering 3. Fruits 4. Seeds Phosphorus is needed throughout a plant’s life but especially in the germination, propagation, seedling, and later in the flowering stages. Signs of phosphorus deficiency include shorter plant growth, abnormally weak shoots and wilting leaves, roots, or flowers. An excess of phosphorus will prevent the uptake or absorption of other elements like calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, and zinc, resulting in slower overall growth. 22 | P a g e Potassium The final most prominent significant nutrient is potassium, largely used in the development and reproduction of plants. Potassium acts as a catalyst for other actions in the plant. These include: 1) Photosynthesis 2) Starch formation 3) Protein synthesis 4) Enzyme activation A potassium deficiency can be spotted by yellowing leaves. An excess of potassium causes a similar effect to phosphorous, preventing the uptake of other nutrients such as zinc, iron, and magnesium. Note: Many metal or nutrient deficiencies have similar warning signs that may affect the plant in similar ways. Best to assess the plant you are growing with nutrient being used. Look for what is lesser in your nutrient recipe as an indicator of the deficiency. Integrated Pest Management IPM is a broad-based approach that integrates practices for economic control of pests. The United Nation's Food and Agriculture Organization defines IPM as “the available pest control techniques and integration of appropriate measures that discourage the development of pest populations and keep pesticides minimized”. This includes managing insects, plant pathogens, algae 23 | P a g e and weeds. The following are different types of IPM methods used in common indoor farming practices: Biological controls The main approach is to promote beneficial insects that eat or parasitize target pests. Biological insecticides, derived from naturally occurring microorganisms (e.g. entomopathogenic nematodes), also fall in this category. Mechanical pest control Mechanical controls are hands-on methods best used when the pest infestation is extreme. Most mechanical controls are applicable to a wide variety of pests, since they are not very specific to lifecycle or physiology. Mechanical control has three possible goals: exclusion, destruction, or removal. Techniques and tools include simple hand-picking, barriers, traps, and vacuuming to disrupt breeding. Cultural pest control Cultural controls are mechanical controls specifically applied at a certain stage in the pest’s life cycle. A cultural control method targets a weak spot in the insect’s life cycle, and aims to interrupt it. For instance, if the pest has a pupal stage and to timing and location of that stage are known, making it possible to destroy the pupae. 24 | P a g e Chemical pest control Chemical controls can be derived from natural or artificial substances in this area. Please consult with Just Vertical before using any of these practices as there are natural and organic applications that can be used on a case-by-case basis. Typical pests found in indoor agriculture White Aphid/Green-Peach Aphid 1. They eat leaflets and suck up the sap from the stem, and are visible during all of their life cycle stages (larvae, pupae and adult). 2. They lay their eggs on wet roots in the matrix media. 3. Aphids are usually found in the underside of the leaf and the stems. 4. They are controlled through ladybugs and aphidoletes (a type of midge, or house fly). 5. Other control methods include mechanical control (such as removing affected plants) and chemical control. Spider Mite 1. An affected leaf will look yellow or bronze in colour. 2. Spider mites are controlled by other predatory mites such as the western predatory mite, which have a similar size, with long legs and are more active. Their larvae feed on spider mites. 25 | P a g e 3. Spider mites thrive in dusty conditions. Keeping the air humid and clean helps prevent them. Fruit Flies and Fungus Gnat 1. They lay their eggs in the matrix media, in dark wet conditions. They are only visible in the adult stage, when they’re flying around the plants. The larvae feed on the roots and mostly cause seedlings to die off, and nuisance when flying around. 2. They largely eat decaying matter (dyeing leaves), be sure to prune your plants regularly to avoid this 3. They are controlled with nematode spray which is prepared by soaking a nematode sponge in a warm water bath. The nematode solution is applied through a spray bottle, on and within the matrix media. 4. A mechanical control method is yellow sticky traps. One helpful practice is to keep the growing area with the pods sterilized and cleaned/wiped down on a weekly basis. White Flies 1. They suck phloem sap in infested vegetable and ornamental plants. 2. They cause plant distortion and discoloration, silver leaf colors, leaf chlorosis and necrosis. They also transmit viruses to the crop. 3. Please note similar IPM strategies and practices are used with aphids, refer to section above. 26 | P a g e Thrips 1. Are tiny slender insects with fringed wings that are typically white or yellowish in early stages, and dark brown or black in adult stages. 2. They feed on the epidermis of leaves, leaving punctures behind. They also leave behind black excrement. 3. They are also controlled through integrated pest management, a combination or biological and cultural practices such as multi-cropping (avoiding monocropping), vigilant monitoring and pruning of the plant. Algae and Mold control 1. Wiping down all front faces of the AEVA and around the pods (weekly cleaning and up keep) will limit algae growth. Algae and fungi grow in cold wet conditions, and in warm water. Therefore, standard living conditions are appropriate for negating algae, fungi and mold growth (don’t put the AEVA somewhere to hot or cold). It is recommended that the AEVA is placed in areas with adequate air flow to help suppress the growth of mold and fungi. 27 | P a g e Definitions AEVA: The furniture that feeds you. It’s named after a tree! pH: A measure of hydrogen ion concentration, a measure of acidity or alkalinity of a solution. GFCI: Ground-fault circuit interrupter detects irregular current flows and prevents hazards. EC: The measure of total dissolved salts in a solution, the factor that influences a plant’s ability to absorb water. TDS: Refer to the measure of salts, anions, cations, metals and minerals that are found in water. Tip Burn: Tip burn is a physical plant defect that is mainly characterized by a breakdown of the margins of the inner leaves. It shows up as yellowed leave tips. 28 | P a g e Conclusion Thank you for taking the time to read about how to grow and properly feed your hydroponically grown produce. We hope you enjoy your journey of growing produce for your home. Please note the AEVA has a warranty of 2 years. If you have any questions feel free to contact us at kjakiela@justvertical.com. 29 | P a g e
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