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If you are not located in the United States, you'll have to check the laws of the country where you are located before using this ebook. Title: Armenia (Volume 2 of 2) Travels and Studies Author: H. F. B. Lynch Release Date: November 21, 2016 [EBook #53568] Language: English *** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ARMENIA (VOLUME 2 OF 2) *** Produced by Jeroen Hellingman and the Online Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net/ for Project Gutenberg (This file was produced from images generously made available by The Internet Archive/American Libraries.) ARMENIA TRAVELS AND STUDIES VOL. II L AKE V AN W IT H S IPAN FROM A RT EMID Frontispiece, Vol. II. ARMENIA T RAVELS AND S TUDIES BY H. F. B. LYNCH Nature’s vast frame, the web of human things. S HELLEY , Alastor Who can foretell our future? Spare me the attempt. We are like a harvest reaped by bad husbandmen amidst encircling gloom and cloud. J OHN K ATHOLIKOS Armenian historian of the Xth century Ch. CLXXXVII. IN TWO VOLUMES WITH 197 ILLUSTRATIONS, REPRODUCED FROM PHOTOGRAPHS AND SKETCHES BY THE AUTHOR, NUMEROUS MAPS AND PLANS, A BIBLIOGRAPHY A ND A M AP OF A RMENIA AND A DJACENT C OUNTRIES VOL. II THE TURKISH PROVINCES LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO. LONDON: 39 PATERNOSTER ROW NEW YORK AND BOMBAY 1901 CONTENTS CHAPTER I PAGE D ESCEND INTO T URKISH T ERRITORY 1 CHAPTER II T O L AKE V AN 11 CHAPTER III A CROSS L AKE V AN 25 CHAPTER IV V AN 38 CHAPTER V F ROM V AN TO B ITLIS 116 CHAPTER VI B ITLIS 145 CHAPTER VII F ROM B ITLIS TO M USH —M USH 160 CHAPTER VIII F ROM M USH TO E RZERUM 174 CHAPTER IX E RZERUM 198 CHAPTER X R ETURN TO THE B ORDER R ANGES —Θ ά λαττα, θ ά λαττα! 225 CHAPTER XI R EVISIT A RMENIA 237 CHAPTER XII A CROSS THE C ENTRAL T ABLELAND TO K HINIS 245 CHAPTER XIII F ROM K HINIS TO T UTAKH 254 CHAPTER XIV D OWN THE M URAD TO M ELAZKERT 264 CHAPTER XV F ROM M ELAZKERT TO A KHLAT 276 CHAPTER XVI A KHLAT 280 CHAPTER XVII O UR S OJOURN IN THE C RATER OF N IMRUD 298 CHAPTER XVIII R OUND N IMRUD BY L AKE N AZIK 314 CHAPTER XIX A SCENT OF S IPAN 326 CHAPTER XX B ACK TO THE C ENTRAL T ABLELAND 340 CHAPTER XXI O UR S OJOURN ON B INGÖL 359 CHAPTER XXII H OME ACROSS THE B ORDER R ANGES 379 CHAPTER XXIII G EOGRAPHICAL 383 CHAPTER XXIV S TATISTICAL AND P OLITICAL 408 APPENDIX I N ATIONAL C ONSTITUTION OF THE A RMENIANS IN THE T URKISH E MPIRE 445 APPENDIX II C HEMICAL C ONSTITUTION OF SOME A RMENIAN L AKES 468 BIBLIOGRAPHY 471 INDEX 497 LIST OF PLATES L AKE V AN WITH S IPAN FROM A RTEMID Frontispiece P LAIN OF A LASHKERT FROM THE S LOPES OF A GHRI D AGH To face page 2 G ROUP OF K URD H AMIDIYEH C A V ALRY Back to page 4 G ROUP OF K ARAPAPAKH H AMIDIYEH C A V ALRY 5 T HE K USEH D AGH FROM THE P LAIN OF A LASHKERT To face page 10 Y USUF B EY OF K ÖSHK 16 K URD OF K ÖSHK IN G ALA D RESS 17 S IPAN FROM THE P LAIN OF P ATNOTZ 19 V AN FROM THE S LOPES OF M OUNT V ARAG 53 V AN : I NTERIOR OF THE M OSQUE OF U LU J AMI Back to page 106 V AN : F RIEZE IN U LU J AMI 107 V AN : C UNEIFORM I NSCRIPTION OF M EHER OR C HOBAN K APUSI To face page 112 V AN : M OUNT V ARAG FROM THE H EIGHTS OF T OPRAK K ALA 113 A KHTAMAR : C HURCH FROM S OUTH -E AST Back to page 130 A KHTAMAR : C HURCH FROM N ORTH -W EST 131 C HURCH AT A KHTAMAR : S CULPTURES ON N ORTH W ALL To face page 132 C RATER OF N IMRUD AS SEEN ON THE R OAD FROM G ARZIK TO B ITLIS 142 B ITLIS FROM A VEL M EIDAN 145 K ERKÜR D AGH FROM THE S OUTH : N IMRUD C RATER IN THE BACKGROUND 161 Y OUNG K URD W OMAN AT G OTNI , M USH P LAIN 163 W ELL - TO - DO I NHABITANT OF K HASKEUI , M USH P LAIN 166 M ONASTERY OF S URB K ARAPET FROM THE S OUTH Back to page 176 C HURCH OF S URB K ARAPET FROM S OUTH -W EST 177 V IEW S OUTH FROM THE T ERRACE AT S URB K ARAPET To face page 178 T HE T WO C HAPELS AT S URB K ARAPET 180 T HE A KH D AGH AND THE P LAIN OF K HINIS FROM THE S OUTH 186 T HE C ENTRAL T ABLELAND , B INGÖL IN THE DISTANCE , FROM NEAR K ULLI 191 K ARGABAZAR , ACROSS THE P LAIN OF P ASIN , FROM THE SOUTHERN MARGIN OF THE C ENTRAL T ABLELAND 193 E RZERUM FROM THE R OOF OF THE B RITISH C ONSULATE : THE C ITADEL IN THE MIDDLE DISTANCE AND E YERLI D AGH IN THE BACKGROUND 208 E RZERUM : C HIFTEH M INAREH To face page 211 L OOKING E AST -S OUTH -E AST FROM NEAR THE K OP P ASS 230 C ASTLE OF K ALAJIK , U PPER K HARSHUT 236 M ONASTERY OF S UMELAS 239 T EKMAN AND THE B INGÖL D AGH FROM NEAR K HEDONUN 247 K HAMUR FROM THE P ASS BETWEEN A LI M UR AND K HINIS 252 M ELAZKERT FROM THE N ORTH : S IPAN IN THE BACKGROUND 269 A KHLAT : I KI K UBE —( THE K ALA , OR O TTOMAN C ITY , IN THE BACKGROUND ) 285 A KHLAT : I SOLATED T OMB 290 A KHLAT : T HE K HARAB -S HEHR , OR S ITE OF THE A NCIENT C ITY 292 T HE N IMRUD C RATER FROM THE P ROMONTORY OF K IZV AG 298 S IPAN : V IEW FROM THE W ESTERN S UMMIT OVER THE S UMMIT R EGION 334 H AMIDIYEH C A V ALRY AT G UMGUM 357 A RMENIAN V ILLAGE OF G UNDEMIR : B INGÖL C LIFFS IN THE BACKGROUND 359 T HE B INGÖL C LIFFS WITH THE H EAD W ATERS OF THE B INGÖL S U FROM THE V ILLAGE OF C HAGHELIK 360 T HE SO - CALLED C RATER OF B INGÖL FROM ABOUT THE CENTRE OF THE M ORAINE FROM K ARA K ALA 369 V IEW FROM THE W ESTERN S UMMIT OF B INGÖL 373 P ANORAMA FROM THE H ILL OF G UGOGHLAN 373 ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT PAGE C ARA V AN ON THE B LACK S EA —T ABRIZ T RADE R OUTE 8 K ARAKILISA FROM S OUTH -W EST 10 A KANTZ 26 R UINS OF A RJISH FROM THE N ORTH 28 R UINS OF A RJISH FROM THE S OUTH 29 O UR B OAT ON L AKE V AN 30 S CENE ON THE I SLAND OF K TUTZ 33 D OORWAY OF THE C HURCH AT K TUTZ 34 B RONZE S HIELD FROM T OPRAK K ALA 62 B RONZE F RAGMENT FROM T OPRAK K ALA (B RITISH M USEUM ) 63 O RNAMENT FROM T OPRAK K ALA (B RITISH M USEUM ) 63 H OUSE OF AN A RMENIAN M ERCHANT AT V AN 81 I NTERIOR OF H AYKA V ANK FROM THE E AST 102 T HE R OCK AND W ALLED C ITY OF V AN 104 S TREET IN THE W ALLED C ITY 105 T HE C RAG OF A K K ÖPRI 111 M ONASTERY OF Y EDI K ILISA (V ARAG ) 114 I NTERIOR OF THE C HURCH AT Y EDI K ILISA 115 V AN ON THE R OAD TO B ITLIS 116 M OUNTAIN R ANGE ALONG S OUTH C OAST OF L AKE V AN 119 I SLAND OF A KHTAMAR 130 P ROMONTORY OF S URB ( ON THE LEFT THE BACK OF THE S HEIKH O RA C RATER ; IN THE DISTANCE N IMRUD ) 140 B ITLIS : F ORTIFIED M ONASTERY 155 T UNNEL OF S EMIRAMIS 156 L OOKING DOWN V ALLEY OF B ITLIS C HAI 157 N IMRUD C RATER FROM THE V OLCANIC P LATEAU 161 A RMENIAN V ILLAGE OF K HASKEUI , M USH P LAIN 165 T ERRACE OF L A V A RESEMBLING H UMAN F ORTIFICATIONS 189 L OOKING DOWN THE V ALLEY OF THE U PPER A RAXES FROM BELOW M EJITLI 192 E RZERUM AND ITS P LAIN FROM THE S OUTH 207 A RMENIAN Y OUTHS 215 A RMENIAN M AIDENS 216 F IVE G ENERATIONS OF AN A RMENIAN F AMILY 221 R ANGE N ORTH OF A SHKALA 229 O N THE B ANKS OF THE C HOROKH ABOVE B AIBURT 232 A RMENIAN C EMETERY AT V ARZAHAN 234 K URDISH D ANCING B OY AT G OPAL 254 P IECE OF S ELJUK P OTTERY FROM A KHLAT 285 T OMBSTONE AT A KHLAT 291 T HE L AKE IN THE C RATER OF N IMRUD 302 V ILLAGE OF U RAN G AZI WITH S IPAN 332 G RA VE ON THE S UMMIT OF K HAMUR 340 LIST OF MAPS AND PLANS P LAN OF V AN To face page 81 B ITLIS AND E NVIRONS 147 P LAN OF THE A NCIENT F ORTIFICATIONS OF M ELAZKERT 271 P LAN OF A KHLAT 296 I NTERIOR OF THE N IMRUD C RATER 305 N IMRUD AND S URROUNDINGS 312 P LAN OF THE S UMMIT R EGION OF S IPAN 336 T HE B INGÖL D AGH ON THE N ORTH 366 T HE B INGÖL D AGH ON THE S OUTH 378 CHAPTER I DESCEND INTO TURKISH TERRITORY October 24. —The track which we were following winds for some distance along the spine of the range. You cross and cross again from the one to the other watershed, overlooking now the open spaces of the southern landscape, now the narrow and encumbered cañon of the Araxes below the adjacent cliffs of the tableland. The rocky parapets and gloomy valleys appear to extend from basin to basin, at right angles to the axis of the chain. West of the crags about us, and isolated from them, rose a shapely mass with black but snow-streaked sides. Darkness was falling when we descended from this lofty position into one of the valleys of the southern slopes. In its recesses we came upon a little Kurdish settlement, which seemed to promise shelter during the night. Kurtler—Kurds! No sooner have we crossed the frontier than we find ourselves in their midst. The mountains of Kurdistan are more than 100 miles distant; yet these parasites fasten upon the countryside. Still their presence is appropriate and is not unwelcome, so long as they are confined to alpine solitudes like those which surround the village of Chat. Tufts of grass, interspersed with an endless crop of stones, were the only pasture which we had seen for some time. Yet the shepherds were in possession of a considerable stock of hay, against the approach of a winter season which can scarcely lack rigour at an elevation of 6700 feet above the sea. Their habitations just protrude above the level of the ground; and, once within the doorway, you proceed through narrow passages into the very bowels of the earth. In the darkness you stumble upon the forms of cattle or wake a ragged child. We took up our quarters in one of the largest of the subterranean chambers, lit our candles, and spread our carpet on the bare soil. We were surprised to discover that the roof of the apartment was artificial—layers of mud and straw, held together by laths of wood, and supported by huge beams. The walls, too, were built up of rough stones, plastered together; it was evident that the room was only three-parts buried, and that it communicated directly with the outer air. In fact we could see an aperture, the rude counterpart of a window, above the opening to the winding passage through which we had come. On the side opposite this only entrance a square hole in the face of the wall nourished a smouldering fire. The smoke wreathed upwards to a vent in the roof, or was sucked inwards towards the tunnelled approach. When morning broke we were glad to issue from the fetid atmosphere of this human burrow into the pure mountain air. A few gaunt figures were standing upon the higher stages of the eminence which had provided a suitable site for these underground operations, and which rose like a large ant-hill from the waste of stone. Women squatted before the doors of the straggling tenements, weaving the bright rugs for which their race is famed. We proceeded down the glen, along the banks of a little stream. It finds an easy exit from the heart of the mountains, threading the trough of one of the meridional valleys. After riding for an hour and a half, we opened out the southern landscape from some high ground above the village of Amat (Fig. 108). Ala Dagh Murad ( invisible ) Passage of Murad Kilich Gedik F IG . 108. P LAIN OF A LASHKERT FROM T HE S LOP ES OF A GHRI D AGH The great plain of Alashkert was outspread before us, bounded on the further side by the snow-capped mountains of the Ala Dagh, which stretched across the horizon from the east. Just before us, this lofty range was seen to recede into the misty background, the outlines bending away towards south-west. But the barrier was resumed at no considerable interval by a chain of hills, less distant, although of humbler proportions, called Kilich Gedik, or the sharp sword. We could just descry the site of Karakilisa, backed by the recess of the Ala Dagh. We knew that the Murad must be flowing through that nebulous passage in the opposite bulwark of the plain. The surface of the ground below us was level as water; the expanse was greatest in the west. In that direction the spurs of the range upon which we stood plunged by a succession of promontories into the floor of the plain. We were reminded of the valley of the Araxes in the neighbourhood of Erivan. Both depressions have the appearance of inland seas at the foot of the mountains, the one on the northern, the other on the southern side. But that of Alashkert is much more elevated ( 5500 feet), and less sheltered; you miss the presence of those extensive stretches of orchard and verdure which soften the landscape through which the Araxes flows. The eye wanders out over dim, ochreous tracts, broken by patches of fallow, and seamed by white rivulets. Just below the Armenian settlement we reached the margin of the level ground, and cantered along, almost on a compass course. We saw several insignificant villages; but the district was wild, the soil for the most part unreclaimed. Flocks of duck and geese took wing at our approach; cranes, with their long necks, sailed across the sky. In the course of an hour and a half we reached the street of Karakilisa, a distance from Amat, measured direct, of 9 miles. A motley crowd collected round us as we enquired for the government quarters; a hundred curious faces were upturned towards us, and our ears were greeted with the cry of Ferengi! Ferengi! passed like a shuttlecock from mouth to mouth. The little town was full of stir; new shops and houses were in course of erection; it was evident that trade and traffic were on the increase. We had almost crossed it from end to end, when we were ushered into a modest building, of which the hall or outer chamber was thronged with people, for the most part peasants; while an old servitor or usher, with white beard and a flowing robe, was marshalling the rows of slippers by the threshold of an inner door. At our approach he drew aside the quilted curtain which screened this sanctuary, and turned the handle and bade us pass within. The low divan, which on three sides followed the walls of the apartment, was already occupied by a full complement of seated figures; they appeared to be engaged in deliberation when we broke in upon their séance. A little man with vivacious eyes was directing the conversation; he sat on the only chair behind a table covered with faded baize. Although we could scarcely doubt that our arrival had been announced beforehand, we seemed to take these notables by surprise. The little man rose from his chair; the assembly huddled together in order to give us place on the divan. Compliments were exchanged; coffee and cigarettes were provided; the discussion was adjourned by tacit consent. One by one, after satisfying without displaying their curiosity, the councillors stole from the room. F IG . 109. G ROUP OF K URD H AMIDIYEH C AVALRY Meanwhile the figure at the table—it was the Kaimakam , or district governor—had examined our numerous and weighty credentials, and had directed a billet to be provided and prepared. Our effects, which arrived later, were not subjected to examination; no excisemen or policemen dogged our steps. Such officials are almost unknown in this happy country! so we reflected with a sense of immense relief. The way they worry the people in the neighbouring empire passes the capacity of the uninitiated to realise. The Greek poet was certainly wrong when he gave expression to the sentiment that anarchy is the greatest of human ills. Here we were, enlightened observers, exchanging order for disorder with rapturous delight! We were free to wander as we willed, to enjoy a British liberty without so much as the restraint of roads and walls. Coming from Russia, the contrast was indeed startling; independence is far preferable to feeling reasonably certain that you will not be knocked on the head by a Kurd. The Kaimakam escorted us to the adjacent barracks, in which a whitewashed room had been made ready to receive us. It belonged to the quarters of the superior officer—with the rank of Miralai —a Turk of great stature and broad shoulders, to whom we were introduced. He wore a dark blue military tunic of European pattern and material; but he had forgotten to fasten the lower buttons of this imposing garment, as well as the upper ones of the trousers beneath. His mouth and ears and nostrils were of unusual proportions; the expression of the face was kind, and denoted a childlike, buoyant nature— de bonne bête humaine , as one might say. In him we found an agreeable and a sensible companion. He bustled about the place, was accustomed to shave each Friday; he settled every difficulty with eh, wallah! accompanied by a hearty laugh. From time to time the troops were visited by the Liva , or commandant, an aged figure with a beard of snow. He had been at Plevna, and had made the campaign of Bulgaria; but nothing remained of him now but a worn-out body, made doubly infirm by an inveterate habit of getting drunk. The peculiar care and constant plague of these high officials were the newly-enrolled regiments which, under the name of Hamidiyeh , flatter the vanity but sap the throne of the reigning Sultan. Am I guilty of indiscretion when I say that the prevailing opinion of them in official circles is one of contempt, not unmixed with alarm? Your high-placed Turk will quote at their expense his favourite proverb, the fish begins to stink from the head . The young men are the sons of their fathers, who are Kurds and brigands; the example of the fathers is transmitted to the sons. Something might be done, if the process were arrested—if the recruits were removed from their homes. When I objected that the Tsar’s Cossacks presented in some respects a hopeful analogy, I would be met by the reply that the Russian autocrat employed strong measures, the like of which the Turkish Government was too mild to enforce. F IG . 110. G ROUP OF K ARAPAPAKH H AMIDIYEH C AVALRY Perhaps my reader is already aware that the Hamidiyeh are irregular cavalry, who owe their origin to the endeavour of the Sultan Abdul Hamid to emulate the example which gave to Russia her Cossack troops. They are recruited for the most part among the Kurdish tribes; the name of yeomanry expresses the nature of their military service, but cannot be applied to the class to which they belong. The force is still undergoing the initial process of organisation. At the time of our journey it afforded the principal topic of conversation. Yuzbashis , or sergeants, of the regular army were being poured into the country, and distributed among the villages, to instil into the shepherds the rudiments of drill. Depots of arms were being established in convenient centres; and it was the intention of the authorities to keep the weapons under lock and key, except when they should be required for the annual trainings in spring. Hundreds and thousands of suits of uniform were arriving in the principal towns, loaded on bullock carts. Each regiment had been allowed to exercise its own fancy upon the choice of a distinctive garb. The result was an incongruous mixture of the braids and gold lace of Europe with the Georgian finery of a serried row of silvered cartridge cases, banded across the breast of a skirted coat. How proud they seemed, and how