Arena Qatar Wanderlust An Island of Locals Its air of shabby chic nonchalance keeps the madding crowd away, while those in the know just cannot stay away. TEXT AND PHOTOGRAPHY BY DEBRINA ALIYAH 46 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine ARRIVING ON PONZA ISLAND through one of the few ferry services that push onto from either Anzio or Naples, the first thing that strikes you is the absence of foreigners, except maybe for yourself. The jam-packed ferry port is a cackling of fast-paced Italian conversations as the new arrivals decide on what to eat or which boat to hop onto for the day’s adventure. A smattering of others will be wheeling their luggage to the local police station — the designated pick- up outpost for almost all the hotels on the island. An hour away from mainland Italy by boat, Ponza is notoriously local as a summer holiday destination. While Capri, Almafi and Sardinia capture the attention of romantic-getaway hopefuls from around the world, Ponza and its shabby chic nonchalance are almost never heard of outside of Italy. On the few occasions where they do get a mention, it is mainly because some celebrity had anchored their boat in one of the bays for a couple of hours, while on his way to the glitzier islands. Though it is easy to see why Ponza is often overlooked — there are no big hotel chains offering the standard tune of luxury resort life, or starred gastronomy experiences, or streets of designer stores with valet parking. In its place instead are charming independent hotels whose owners will tan with you, tiny restaurants with daily fresh-off-the-boat seafood and an unending coastline of secret bays and cliffs that are begging to be explored. These are all the things that define an Italian summer packed into one island, which is why it appeals to the Italians who disappear from the big cities for all of August. Here, the concept of "dolce far niente" (the joy of doing nothing) reaches its glorious height, with days of only eating and soaking in the natural marvels of the island. STAY Hotel Chiaia di Luna Overlooking the Chiaia di Luna white-washed cliff is a marshmallow-colored property sprawling down the main street that loops around the island. Ilia and son Giuseppe Stile are the friendly hosts who will more than likely chat and share island gossip with you over a coffee. Rooms are small and basic but on this island, it’s not about the rooms but about the space and facilities — there’s plenty of room here to find your own private corner to soak in the sun. Grand Hotel Santa Domitilla Mere steps away from the island’s main center, this hotel boasts its own heated jet-pool and hammam facilities as well as a fancy restaurant, Il Melograno. Service is tip-top and they can arrange just about anything — from boat excursions to spa therapy and treatments. Villa Laetitia A gorgeously appointed bed and breakfast styled property that is BY THE SEA Previous page: Hotel Chiaia di Luna is a spacious property with plenty of nooks and corners where one can soak up the sun. Clockwise from top left: The marvels of Ponza are in its isolated beaches, water caves and rocky cliffs. The Chiaia di Luna cliff is a natural white- washed marble formation. 47 Arena Qatar Wanderlust ever came off the fishing boat for the day. When picking the seafood, the kitch- en will whip up the dishes to your preference. The owners are very friendly and will take their time to get to know you, so get ready for a long social meal. But then again, on Ponza, there is no rush to get anywhere. Mamafé Located to the north of the island, this is an excellent spot to catch the sunset. Throw on a nice dress or shirt to blend in with the crowd, as this is one of the few places where the night continues with low-key house music and par- ty vibes. EXPLORE Get On a Boat The big charms of Ponza are its gorgeous natural cliffs, beaches and bays, and the best way to see all of this is to be on a boat. If you are already arriving to Ponza on your own charter, then you can plan your own itinerary to cover the different spots, but there are plenty of day-trip hires on the island that will take you out for a full-day adventure. Hop onto the boat with a group of Italians and get ready to make some friends as you dive into crystal clear wa- ters and share a pasta at lunch. Rent an Electric Bicycle There is one main street that loops around the island and because of the winding terrain, an electric bicycle is the best bet — unless you are up for a fitness challenge on a traditional bike. For about QR100 a day, you can take an electric bike out and ride from one end of the island to the other, with plenty of time in between to explore the area's parks and archaeological sites. situated among the homes of the locals. It is a choice jewel for many of the more design-inclined guests because of its owners — the Fendi family. EAT Ristorante L'Aragosta At this local favorite, be sure to ask for the Italian menu and take your time — with some help from the internet. The English menu is an abbreviated version, with many of the specials missing, leaving you with just some basic choices of pasta and pizza. Order the fish of the day cooked "aqua pazza" style — a simple poaching technique that retains all the fresh flavors. Trattoria Un mare di sapori A family-run joint where the menu is literally what- SIT BACK AND RELAX Clockwise from top left: Spend the afternoon indulging in the joy of doing nothing under a cabana in Grand Hotel Santa Domitilla; The nonchalant vibe of the island gives it a sense of authenticity; and the arrival port of Ponza is the bustling center of the island. 48 T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine